Looking to debug a problem with a Wadia 860
The Remote Control no longer functions? - both the original remote and a universal remote.
Before opening the lid I thought I would ask some questions....
Background -
Original owner - been working flawlessly for 15 years, has not been moved or fallen.
Does the IR receiver occasionally fail in these things?
Is there someway to test? - (have a decent Fluke Multimeter)
I've done the simple things, check batteries, clean receiver
There is not much support from Wadia these days - and the front buttons on the unit only control track advance, volume and opening the tray (which allows it to still function) but you cannot control the source inputs, programming, phase, repeat and some other functions.
Thanks for any guidance
The Remote Control no longer functions? - both the original remote and a universal remote.
Before opening the lid I thought I would ask some questions....
Background -
Original owner - been working flawlessly for 15 years, has not been moved or fallen.
Does the IR receiver occasionally fail in these things?
Is there someway to test? - (have a decent Fluke Multimeter)
I've done the simple things, check batteries, clean receiver
There is not much support from Wadia these days - and the front buttons on the unit only control track advance, volume and opening the tray (which allows it to still function) but you cannot control the source inputs, programming, phase, repeat and some other functions.
Thanks for any guidance
IR receivers can fail but its rare. Typically they are a three terminal device, +5 volt, ground and an output. A scope is used to see if there is an output signal present. You can use a meter and see if you get a fluctuation in voltage when you press a button on the RC. That's a rough and ready check.
OK... Did the universal remote ever work the Wadia ? Have you pointed the Wadia remote at a digital camera or webcam as a rough test to see its transmitting. The IR is "visible" to such cameras.
99% of remote faults are the remote themselves and usually easily fixable.
OK... Did the universal remote ever work the Wadia ? Have you pointed the Wadia remote at a digital camera or webcam as a rough test to see its transmitting. The IR is "visible" to such cameras.
99% of remote faults are the remote themselves and usually easily fixable.
Thanks for the suggestions...
I may have mistakenly assumed a Harmony 650 remote would control the Wadia (It's in the Harmony DataBase, but just because it's there doesn't mean it will work)
I will test the Wadia Remote with a Digital Camera for output.
I have tried to open/look inside the Wadia Remote - it's a big piece of machined aluminum, and although it's easy to replace the batteries, does not seem easy to take apart....
I may have mistakenly assumed a Harmony 650 remote would control the Wadia (It's in the Harmony DataBase, but just because it's there doesn't mean it will work)
I will test the Wadia Remote with a Digital Camera for output.
I have tried to open/look inside the Wadia Remote - it's a big piece of machined aluminum, and although it's easy to replace the batteries, does not seem easy to take apart....
All the money is on the remote being faulty...
99.9% of faults will be,
1) Dries on the IR LED's
2) Open circuit IR LED. There may be several in series. Any IR LED will work. You can rip open old junk TV remotes as a source.
3) Fractured lead on PCB mounted ceramic resonator.
4) Conductive rubber keypad (if it uses one) can secrete a sticky liquid (I think its a mould release agent) contaminating the PCB.
I've worked on literally thousands of remotes and the above covers 99% of issues. I would wash any disassembled remote with foam cleaner and warm water (use a soft brush) washing all parts and PCB etc. The exception to that is if the buttons are springy metal "tact" switches secured to the PCB with tape. If so water probably isn't a good idea. Anything else, get it dunked, washed and dried.
99.9% of faults will be,
1) Dries on the IR LED's
2) Open circuit IR LED. There may be several in series. Any IR LED will work. You can rip open old junk TV remotes as a source.
3) Fractured lead on PCB mounted ceramic resonator.
4) Conductive rubber keypad (if it uses one) can secrete a sticky liquid (I think its a mould release agent) contaminating the PCB.
I've worked on literally thousands of remotes and the above covers 99% of issues. I would wash any disassembled remote with foam cleaner and warm water (use a soft brush) washing all parts and PCB etc. The exception to that is if the buttons are springy metal "tact" switches secured to the PCB with tape. If so water probably isn't a good idea. Anything else, get it dunked, washed and dried.
Thanks for all the input:
After searching around the net I found this thread were there was a problem with a Wadia 860 and a Harmony remote (basically the Wadia volume control would not work when set as an 860) - anyways they go back and forth and eventually they try setting the Wadia up as a Receiver/Amp in the remote (As a Wadia 25) -- and the remote works.
CD Player with volume not supported - Page 2 - Logitech Forums
So I tried that and the Universal remote now works fine....
I do therefore have an issue with the Wadia remote and I will start investigating the problems/solutions mentioned here...
Thanks again
After searching around the net I found this thread were there was a problem with a Wadia 860 and a Harmony remote (basically the Wadia volume control would not work when set as an 860) - anyways they go back and forth and eventually they try setting the Wadia up as a Receiver/Amp in the remote (As a Wadia 25) -- and the remote works.
CD Player with volume not supported - Page 2 - Logitech Forums
So I tried that and the Universal remote now works fine....
I do therefore have an issue with the Wadia remote and I will start investigating the problems/solutions mentioned here...
Thanks again
Your welcome and tbh that all sounds par for the course... majority of RC issues come down to the handset.
Once you open the remote up it should be fixable as outlined above.
Once you open the remote up it should be fixable as outlined above.
I have only worked on a hundred or so of them but these Wadia metal remotes have me scratching my head as far as opening them.
The only thing I can think of, is to peel the sticker with button names and symbols, hoping for access to some hidden screws and the board underneath.
One on the left barely works and needs cleaning. The one on the right works fine, but has been attacked by a dog (see bite marks)
Anyone has experience with opening of these?
Attachments
The issue is often that the batteries holder are damaged (plastic at the ends off) even after transport.
Also contact issues after time, to turn some batteries and than ok again.
Have one with dual LED... but needs a LED with 5meters support, so I am still looking for a valuable replacement part / brand
Also contact issues after time, to turn some batteries and than ok again.
Have one with dual LED... but needs a LED with 5meters support, so I am still looking for a valuable replacement part / brand
Press the top plastic with fingers, you might find a gap in what is supporting it.....
Peel off gently, get to gap and metal screws should be there.
Some super costly remotes were machined from solid, with the top cover sticker covering the top metal sheet, and a metal battery cover, those had a screw, as snap fit is difficult to do in aluminum.
Peel off gently, get to gap and metal screws should be there.
Some super costly remotes were machined from solid, with the top cover sticker covering the top metal sheet, and a metal battery cover, those had a screw, as snap fit is difficult to do in aluminum.
Well,
I have a 860 CD player, where the ALU remote control box has to be opened and containing 6 batteries, 3 on each side.
The older 27DAC remote control box is equal and has 2 LED's.
Replaced with dark blue LED, but they are to short beaming... 5m is required with given/required diameter.
I have tested the 860/861 with both Logitechs tonight and sadly, they only work reliably to about 3.5m
They occasionally work at 4m.
If the distance of 5m was that important to me, I'd probably just fit a higher powered IR diode.
Duty cycle of the remote and hence diode is so low, that I cannot see any impact on the circuitry.
