Apologies if I'm butting in, if you're in the Auckland region, PM me, I have Sony CDP experience, might be able to assist
hi there, i live in the taupo area sadly ,im a hobbyist and learning at every job, if you have a idea fire away as more the merrier i say ,have you worked this model before?
if you have read the posts you will see i have made sure the mech is clean and working as should,i got the right patterns on my oscilloscope when told what to do,i got the correct readings on the volt meter from sled motor when in use ,i was going to recap the servo pcb,but i did not hold much hope on that as there is only 7 and the rest are smd so would need to buy more gear for that job
mike
Had another read through, two things come to mind.
1, I'm still not sanguine about the RF level and how clean it is. Mooly is 100% correct, it has be stable, with a clean diamond, and no less than 0.9V P-P. Measuring between TPRF and VC is annoying but as the player has a two wire (no earth) AC supply, you should be good to measure, so long as nothing else is connected to the player, e.g RCA outputs. And use a 10:1 probe 🙂
2, The back to front sled mech - a gotcha is that the gears can look perfect, and be nice and clean, but the slightest deformation will make them bind. With the sled motor out, you should able to gently move the assembly back and forth on it's guide, it should be smoooth.
If you have an old analogue multimeter, with the sled motor, but isolated from drive electronics, it can likely drive the sled motor on low ohms range, try that if poss, if the meter reading is not steady, in both directions (reverse and try each way), the mech is binding somewhere (most likely), or the sled motor has a dead spot.
Hope this is of use, see how you get on.
PS . I wouldn't run around changing random caps unless you can prove with an ESR meter, or there is visible leakage. Never had a problem with the servo boards in those, always the pickup or sled mech in my experience.
1, I'm still not sanguine about the RF level and how clean it is. Mooly is 100% correct, it has be stable, with a clean diamond, and no less than 0.9V P-P. Measuring between TPRF and VC is annoying but as the player has a two wire (no earth) AC supply, you should be good to measure, so long as nothing else is connected to the player, e.g RCA outputs. And use a 10:1 probe 🙂
2, The back to front sled mech - a gotcha is that the gears can look perfect, and be nice and clean, but the slightest deformation will make them bind. With the sled motor out, you should able to gently move the assembly back and forth on it's guide, it should be smoooth.
If you have an old analogue multimeter, with the sled motor, but isolated from drive electronics, it can likely drive the sled motor on low ohms range, try that if poss, if the meter reading is not steady, in both directions (reverse and try each way), the mech is binding somewhere (most likely), or the sled motor has a dead spot.
Hope this is of use, see how you get on.
PS . I wouldn't run around changing random caps unless you can prove with an ESR meter, or there is visible leakage. Never had a problem with the servo boards in those, always the pickup or sled mech in my experience.
thanks very much for the input,
ill take it apart again and inspect all moving parts again, this time ill use a micro scope i have,
i have been putting it together nearly dry, i have got my self some super slick Teflon grease we use at work on the switch blocks at the power stations , as far as the rep has to say about it ,its the slipperiest stuff they sell,
i may put a little of this on all moving bearing surfaces,
i really have to stop taking this thing apart as i fear that the bolts and screws might start giving signs if wear lol ,
if my signal from rf is not right can this be adjusted? or is it a hunt for a new laser?
thanks
mike
i will hold off on the recap till its running right, i got some super cool low esr units in the post today , i had the right values here but i wanted the flash ones for this old pig,
its a very nice sounding unit when not skipping, nicer even then my s9000es i would say, but not by much ,but that could be the fact i only use the optical out on all my gear, maybe the 9000 has a substandard optical out system as it was not very fashionable by the time the s9000 came out, but i could and most likely wrong lol
its a very nice sounding unit when not skipping, nicer even then my s9000es i would say, but not by much ,but that could be the fact i only use the optical out on all my gear, maybe the 9000 has a substandard optical out system as it was not very fashionable by the time the s9000 came out, but i could and most likely wrong lol
Go carefully. It may seem counterintuitive, but the less lubricant the better. Just a minim. Start with clean, give the gears a bath in isopropanol and let them thoroughly dry.
My instincts from afar say dying pickup, sadly the only solution would be a donor, and taking one's chances.
The XA50ES was a nice player in the day, last of the line some might say.
I have a 1989 CDP-X7, it gets a RF check and light service every couple of years. A bygone era.
PS, yes, I used to service a lot of Sony hifi apparatus for a job, however that part of my career basically died underneath me and I do other things now.
Good luck sir.
My instincts from afar say dying pickup, sadly the only solution would be a donor, and taking one's chances.
The XA50ES was a nice player in the day, last of the line some might say.
I have a 1989 CDP-X7, it gets a RF check and light service every couple of years. A bygone era.
PS, yes, I used to service a lot of Sony hifi apparatus for a job, however that part of my career basically died underneath me and I do other things now.
Good luck sir.
i have one other sony cd player that i enjoy in my bed room, cdp-302es i bet you worked on a few of those old girls, its mint to and sounds very good,
that did get a full recap and pcb flow,
the x7 is a super looking unit i bet it preforms well, what amp do you use with it? matching sony?
CDP-302ES, that was a long time ago, if you have a good one, look after it. Saw a few, but was usually after a million miles equivalent.
The X7, yes, it has the all alloy BU and linear motor traverse, superb engineering.
Plays into several different amps - occasionally a TA-FA7ES, however the reference amp is a Modulus-86 build, and then tubes, AB2 modified triode P-P Williamson monoblocks, or a tweaked up Tubelab SPP. And some SE tube experiments. I have an open mind 🙂
Edit to add re sound of the X7, last flagship from Sony that was multi-bit (PCM54HP DACs from memory), never been able to fault it, remarkably vinyl-like, not as "exciting" sounding as later 7 series players but everything is is there.
Disclaimer, Klipsch fan, this all gets played on vintage Heresy Mk 1s, or newer RF62-II if I want more bass to annoy the neighbours with.
The X7, yes, it has the all alloy BU and linear motor traverse, superb engineering.
Plays into several different amps - occasionally a TA-FA7ES, however the reference amp is a Modulus-86 build, and then tubes, AB2 modified triode P-P Williamson monoblocks, or a tweaked up Tubelab SPP. And some SE tube experiments. I have an open mind 🙂
Edit to add re sound of the X7, last flagship from Sony that was multi-bit (PCM54HP DACs from memory), never been able to fault it, remarkably vinyl-like, not as "exciting" sounding as later 7 series players but everything is is there.
Disclaimer, Klipsch fan, this all gets played on vintage Heresy Mk 1s, or newer RF62-II if I want more bass to annoy the neighbours with.
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very cool,
i collect es gear, ive got in my living room a ,str-da777es , dvp-s9000es , mds-ja555es , sdp-ep9es , ps-x700 (this is no es but is made like it should be) , sa-wx700 ( another good sony unit should have the es badge)
gear i have that i have just because i like es , str-va80es , str-da80es , str-da5400es , cdp-302es , cdp-xa50es not working as yet ,
thats my sony list ,my speaker list is all euro as they just do it right lol
but i ramble