Seas W18e001

Jump to Latest
#3
What do you mean by "plans" ? Box design? Crossover design? Active? Passive? Used with what else?
I think Linkwitz used several of this series, so might also look there. (Orion etc)

Drivers like this one need a VERY steep crossover to manage the breakup. I am not sure I would try it higher than 1500 4th order.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LeifB60
#4
  • Like
Reactions: LeifB60
#5
I had a pair of Troels TJL-2W with the Fountek ribbon tweeter. He no longer lists this version on his site and I didn’t keep the schematic for the crossover. I was really impressed with the transparency of the W18 and Troels was able to provide this without the shrill quality I have noted in other designs using this driver. It would be interesting to hear what this speaker could be with a more robust/ lower crossing ribbon tweeter such as a Viawave or Raal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LeifB60
#7
The crossover for the ribbon tweeter version of the TJL-2w is much less involved than the one above with the dome tweeter…in the dome tweeter version he tried to really reshape the response but I hear nothing bad going on with the original I have…the ribbon tweeter version also crosses at 2600 v. 2300 for the dome tweeter version.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LeifB60
#8
wallacefl said:
The crossover for the ribbon tweeter version of the TJL-2w is much less involved than the one above with the dome tweeter…in the dome tweeter version he tried to really reshape the response but I hear nothing bad going on with the original I have…the ribbon tweeter version also crosses at 2600 v. 2300 for the dome tweeter version.
Click to expand...
I have a pair of scanspeak 2905/9300.
Could I use them?
 
#11
LeifB60 said:
I have a pair of scanspeak 2905/9300.
Could I use them?
Click to expand...
Very nice tweeter. You can use anything, just how well. I would rather see those tweeters used with the Purifi or CSS woofer and not have to deal with the horrendous breakup modes of the Seas. I guess a really big ribbon that could cross below 1K, or better, a midrange to comer in lower, is better for the Seas woofer.

Please do not be offended, but your questions seem very basic for a beginner. The drivers yo are talking about are very high end and not how yo learn about designing speakers. The crossover design, passive or active, is as if not more important than the driver selection. It is what makes or breaks a end result. I have been off and on building speakers for 40 years and just barely scratched the surface of design.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LeifB60
#13
Look at the breakup of the Seas !!!!!!!!! Even 4th order may not tame it @ 2000. So a simulation. Can you get the breakup below 40 dB or so? Will you need additional notch filters? What does that do to your system impedance and phase?

The Scan Speak will work well @ 2000, if 3rd order. Second only if you play very gently. Distortion skyrockets as you approach X-Max. A simple rule of thumb, is at least three times the Fs. I almost bought a pair for my last upgrade, but went Seas H1316 instead as they were the same motor and very close response to the metal dome version I was replacing. Pretty happy with them but my crossover is too low. Going active and will raise it a bit. Seas ER18 woofers breakup needs a steeper crossover than I did passive.

So, 2K is a good STARTING target for the tweeter. But just a starting point. You have to do the simulation and model for acoustic offset and phase and see where you can get acceptable tracking. I try for less than 10 degrees for 1000 Hz around the crossover point. Can't always get it.

For first builds, I strongly suggest using "easier" to implement drivers. Learn as you go. Then move up the expensive stuff or you will have $2000 and much effort that won't sound as good as $200/pair Elac. Even the SB paper cones are quite good, way more affordable and far better behaved than the W18.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LeifB60
#14
tvrgeek said:
Look at the breakup of the Seas !!!!!!!!! Even 4th order may not tame it @ 2000. So a simulation. Can you get the breakup below 40 dB or so? Will you need additional notch filters? What does that do to your system impedance and phase?

The Scan Speak will work well @ 2000, if 3rd order. Second only if you play very gently. Distortion skyrockets as you approach X-Max. A simple rule of thumb, is at least three times the Fs. I almost bought a pair for my last upgrade, but went Seas H1316 instead as they were the same motor and very close response to the metal dome version I was replacing. Pretty happy with them but my crossover is too low. Going active and will raise it a bit. Seas ER18 woofers breakup needs a steeper crossover than I did passive.

So, 2K is a good STARTING target for the tweeter. But just a starting point. You have to do the simulation and model for acoustic offset and phase and see where you can get acceptable tracking. I try for less than 10 degrees for 1000 Hz around the crossover point. Can't always get it.

For first builds, I strongly suggest using "easier" to implement drivers. Learn as you go. Then move up the expensive stuff or you will have $2000 and much effort that won't sound as good as $200/pair Elac. Even the SB paper cones are quite good, way more affordable and far better behaved than the W18.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
I like the sound of Seas Excel W18e001.
I had a fountek 3.0 tweeter before. I want a dome tweeter this time.
Maybe ss 2905/930000.
 
#17
Leif, what you are up against is not tweeter problems.

It's metal breakup. 5kHz.
 

Attachments

  • Seas W18 Breakup.jpg
    Seas W18 Breakup.jpg
    76.3 KB · Views: 113
  • Like
Reactions: LeifB60
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom