its doing some things that i have not come across before, it needs to warm up a little before the logics work,once working it plays for any where from a min to hrs and it will stop and say there is no disc,
i have an idea that the servo pcb and the logics are one and the same,i will be changing out the 6 caps on this pcb, i have not worked with smd caps before so i will leave them alone for now ,so ill only do the elec type , i have not tested them off pcb but one 100uf is reading 600uf in place ,i hope this is the problem but doubt it,
what i would like to know is has any one worked on or had a similar set of problems that has been repaired in the past,
thanks
mike
i have an idea that the servo pcb and the logics are one and the same,i will be changing out the 6 caps on this pcb, i have not worked with smd caps before so i will leave them alone for now ,so ill only do the elec type , i have not tested them off pcb but one 100uf is reading 600uf in place ,i hope this is the problem but doubt it,
what i would like to know is has any one worked on or had a similar set of problems that has been repaired in the past,
thanks
mike
I would check the power supply and then replace the spindle motor, before you add to the fault already on it. Then, go through the setup to check focus offset and gain.
I doubt the mechacon board is at fault.
I doubt the mechacon board is at fault.
ok,
sounds good, cd players are not what i have alot of experience in, i can check power supply and see if in spec, but the spindle motor inspection i have not done before, how do i go about this?
i have a oscilloscope but not sure how to use it with an cd player, very little experience there as well,
can you please point me in the right direction ,
mike
oh i do have all the gear to complete the job i belave as i restore tape decks now and again,the mechcanical side of the player is in good cond, belts and all moving parts are as should be,
the spindle motor turns free has no end float to speak of and no bearing wear,this i checked with a micrometer ,not found out put spec for power supply as yet or test points on pcb, but will asap,
it really sounds good once warm and when not cutting out, i have had it for years, i have recapped many audio units in the past,
thanks for your input
ike
power supply up to spec,spindle motor disassembled and cleaned/lubed with very light oil, seems to be acting better than in years, we will see
newzealand1:
you may pick up some handy tips here:
https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/cdfaq.htmif you touched the spindle motor and that helped, it might need to be replaced.
i had an XA-50ES for a while; it was a nice machine.
I gave it to my best buddy years ago. He still has it and loves it.
you may pick up some handy tips here:
https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/cdfaq.htmif you touched the spindle motor and that helped, it might need to be replaced.
i had an XA-50ES for a while; it was a nice machine.
I gave it to my best buddy years ago. He still has it and loves it.
My Technics Cd player was occasionally pausing, slipping, and reading No Disk.
Turns out the AGC e-cap was bad on the servo board.
Turns out the AGC e-cap was bad on the servo board.
thanks for the info,the main problems seem to be gone for now,i thing i was hoping to fix that seems to be still there but not as bad is a skip backwards a few seconds at random , i dont really understand as i fully rebliult the mech that moves the spindle, i have found if a cd player skips back ward it is sticky mech problems, i put it back together with just a wipe of sewing machine oil, i added a little more with q tip and has helped some but not perfect,skips about once in a cd play ,upto 10-15sec back,
i am going to run it for 24hrs and see if the lube needs to get in better,
id love to just replace the spindle motor but id say that would be a very hard part to find
mike
Sometimes, the spindle motor can be "freshened up".
A spray of some CRC electronic cleaner in towards the brushes, then feed some DC (only a vew volts 2-4 to revv it a bit in both directions)
Then some light oil on the bearing, if accessable - don't remove the platter, it's critically positioned for focus.
if the cap on servo pcb dont do the job i guess i better try my hand at the smd ones,i just hope i can test them in place so i dont need to replace them all
The commutator and brushes sometimes get dirty/buildup.
And other times the bearing gets worn from lack of oil.
They are replaceable though, but the critical thing is the platter spacing - you'd need a scope and test equipment to re-align the thing.
im only guessing here what it may be now, i have a oscilloscope but not very experienced in using it,is there some where i can hook it up to so i can see if the problem is mech not electonic?
i dont think wear is the problem,i set up a micrometer so see if i could get any movement and none to be found, ill take it apart again and really get stuck in on that motor, would a motor cause the skiping backwards now and again?
The ONLY way to sucess is to go by the Service Manual's procedure.
Without having that, you're not going to get far by guessing.
Good luck.
The spindle motor turning backwards means the laser has lost focus or is noisy.
Play a known good disc and increase/decrease the whining noise until almost gone using the focus gain control.
DO NOT touch the control/s on the laser assemby, if you do, purchase a new assembly.
Play a known good disc and increase/decrease the whining noise until almost gone using the focus gain control.
DO NOT touch the control/s on the laser assemby, if you do, purchase a new assembly.
its not turning backwards, it just skips back a second or two,do you think this may be the reason?
I would begin by looking at the RF (eye pattern) with the scope while it actually plays. Look at the overall visual quality and amplitude checking for noise and jitter. Also check ALL rails and use the scope for that as well, a DVM tells little about problems with ripple noise.
The spindle motor in these is a high quality BSL type (brushless/slotless Hall effect) and would not be the first suspect imo.
The spindle motor in these is a high quality BSL type (brushless/slotless Hall effect) and would not be the first suspect imo.