Hi
I am studying both F6 and M2x, willing to build one of them.
For the F6, i understood from the manual/diy build thread/Youtube video that you have to adjust some pot to adjust bias. 2pots to adjust, documented.
For the M2x, i didn't find much information if there is a bias to set or not and would like to check with you.
*On the schematic, the pot RV1 is mentionned as not mandatory / used for a bit of tuning only. [6L6 answered below= was wrong, RV1 is mandatory]
*Don't remember where but there was a mention of the bias adjusting itself automatically just by design.
*Googling "F6 bias" will return results. Same with M2x doesn't return much / nothing (same on those foru
I am quite new to this, having just recently repaired a tube amp (recaps, changing ageing resistors and others misc), assembled a Noir amp.
I might not have understood the schematic and not search enough, but i would like to understand if i missed anything (and where that would be !)
Regards
I am studying both F6 and M2x, willing to build one of them.
For the F6, i understood from the manual/diy build thread/Youtube video that you have to adjust some pot to adjust bias. 2pots to adjust, documented.
For the M2x, i didn't find much information if there is a bias to set or not and would like to check with you.
*On the schematic, the pot RV1 is mentionned as not mandatory / used for a bit of tuning only. [6L6 answered below= was wrong, RV1 is mandatory]
*Don't remember where but there was a mention of the bias adjusting itself automatically just by design.
*Googling "F6 bias" will return results. Same with M2x doesn't return much / nothing (same on those foru
I am quite new to this, having just recently repaired a tube amp (recaps, changing ageing resistors and others misc), assembled a Noir amp.
I might not have understood the schematic and not search enough, but i would like to understand if i missed anything (and where that would be !)
Regards
Last edited:
F6 bias (and offset) is set by adjusting two pots as you state.
The MX2 bias is set by the design and needs no adjustment. There is one pot that is adjusted to zero any offset.
The MX2 bias is set by the design and needs no adjustment. There is one pot that is adjusted to zero any offset.
M2x bias is set automatically.
RV1 is to zero the DC offset on the output. It is mandatory. (Also, use the “blasphemous heresy” values for more range in adjustment.)
RV1 is to zero the DC offset on the output. It is mandatory. (Also, use the “blasphemous heresy” values for more range in adjustment.)
Setup isn't difficult on either, really. They are both wonderful amps that have the class-A magic in spades, and punch way, way above their weight class. You’ll be happy with either.
M2x is an incredible amp.
M2x is an incredible amp.
Thanks to all of you, ColinA123, 6L6 and ZenMod. I will check a bit more on the "DC offset" through the forums/build guide but the fact that the bias is set automatically on the M2x + 6L6 commments steer me into that direction.
ZenMod just blew my brain so, yeah, i will ignore.
Thanks again
ZenMod just blew my brain so, yeah, i will ignore.
Thanks again
Don't be put off the F6 just because it needs bias setting.
It is a fantastic sounding amplifier, and I think quite a simple build. The MX2 will need a lot more parts sourcing for its daughter cards depending on which ones you build.
To bias the F6 all you need are 2 (or possibly 3) multimeters which can be quite cheap. (and a little time)
It is a fantastic sounding amplifier, and I think quite a simple build. The MX2 will need a lot more parts sourcing for its daughter cards depending on which ones you build.
To bias the F6 all you need are 2 (or possibly 3) multimeters which can be quite cheap. (and a little time)
Thanks.
There are many differents things at play.
Number of parts is not an issue because i would need to order a minimum quantities from the usual resellers. I might in the end order the PCB for both amps from the DIY Audio Store...depending on different factors. My biggest worry is in fact the ability to build a safe power supply from the universal PSU PCB & build thread but that would be for another post/question if i have some.
Have a nice day
There are many differents things at play.
Number of parts is not an issue because i would need to order a minimum quantities from the usual resellers. I might in the end order the PCB for both amps from the DIY Audio Store...depending on different factors. My biggest worry is in fact the ability to build a safe power supply from the universal PSU PCB & build thread but that would be for another post/question if i have some.
Have a nice day
The universal PSU is an easy build. (Well I found it easy!)
If you can, order two sets of power supply boards. When funds allow, build two complete power supplies, including two 300 - 400va transformers.
I.M.H.O. dual mono is the biggest improvement, certainly to an F6.
If building an F6 from scratch, pay attention to the "zenner mod" or use three green leds.
If you can, order two sets of power supply boards. When funds allow, build two complete power supplies, including two 300 - 400va transformers.
I.M.H.O. dual mono is the biggest improvement, certainly to an F6.
If building an F6 from scratch, pay attention to the "zenner mod" or use three green leds.
Attachments
The PSU is the same for either of the amps. (In fact, the PSU is the same for F4, F5, F6, Aleph J, M2x, the BA-series, etc…)
You can easily build a PSU that will work with either amp - in fact, swapping amp boards in/out of the same chassis
+PSU is not that difficult at all.
You can easily build a PSU that will work with either amp - in fact, swapping amp boards in/out of the same chassis
+PSU is not that difficult at all.
Thanks for the encouragement, that's very nice of you. I understood that PSU could be use for almost any Pass amp, in fact that they were an investment over the long term, as the UMS-type case. Thank to our discussion i will start to confidently start ordering parts, PCB, ...I feel confident that if i hit a snag, there will be people to help a bit.
Thanks a lot
Thanks a lot
Hi.
Just to mention that the M2x is now built and working. I didn't went for the “blasphemous heresy” of changing some resistors and using a 20K pot because, at the time of purchase and even when building a few months later, 20K pot was not available.
A. Set-Up with the Tucson board and TL071 opamp because 1) i didn't want to blow up Ishikawa in case of mistake, 2) OPA604 or else were not available and i read TL071 could be used as alternative. Just for start up, see if everything OK, it produce sound, and to set the DC offset
B. Set-Up DC Offset. I can only manage -30mV on 1 side, -15mV on the other side. Ok with this as some posts suggest that +/-30mV is acceptable.
C. Then switch daughter board to Mountain View for some listening.
D. It is currently driven by a Noir Headphone Amp / Preamp.
E. I am starting to compare it with others combinations of amp on different kinds of music.
F. Won't say more 'cos my plan was to have a B1 Nutube Preamp in front. I am just missing the NuTube, unavailable in Europe for quite some time.
Might have to buy from the DIY store and pay different shipping, import taxes, taxes... well...that will be an opportunity to listen to this setup, then compare later with Nutube = part of the interest.
Just want to use this thread to thank NP/Mark J./6L6/DIY Audio Store for making the M2x available, the DIY Audio M2x Noob Build thread Link nice summary "everything in one place", various supports found in the DIY Audio forums that helped me build confidence into this, especially for the power supply elements. [was worried about playing with 230V...)
Thanks again!
Just to mention that the M2x is now built and working. I didn't went for the “blasphemous heresy” of changing some resistors and using a 20K pot because, at the time of purchase and even when building a few months later, 20K pot was not available.
A. Set-Up with the Tucson board and TL071 opamp because 1) i didn't want to blow up Ishikawa in case of mistake, 2) OPA604 or else were not available and i read TL071 could be used as alternative. Just for start up, see if everything OK, it produce sound, and to set the DC offset
B. Set-Up DC Offset. I can only manage -30mV on 1 side, -15mV on the other side. Ok with this as some posts suggest that +/-30mV is acceptable.
C. Then switch daughter board to Mountain View for some listening.
D. It is currently driven by a Noir Headphone Amp / Preamp.
E. I am starting to compare it with others combinations of amp on different kinds of music.
F. Won't say more 'cos my plan was to have a B1 Nutube Preamp in front. I am just missing the NuTube, unavailable in Europe for quite some time.
Might have to buy from the DIY store and pay different shipping, import taxes, taxes... well...that will be an opportunity to listen to this setup, then compare later with Nutube = part of the interest.
Just want to use this thread to thank NP/Mark J./6L6/DIY Audio Store for making the M2x available, the DIY Audio M2x Noob Build thread Link nice summary "everything in one place", various supports found in the DIY Audio forums that helped me build confidence into this, especially for the power supply elements. [was worried about playing with 230V...)
Thanks again!
