I'm not interested in sag, so we can move on from that.
Does the outer foil of a DC link cap matter? And how do you measure it anyway?
Does the outer foil of a DC link cap matter? And how do you measure it anyway?
The second capacitor must be -about- three times larger than first.Tell me about the 1:3 ratio.
If you use 12uF, 40uF it's close to it.
I install them whichever way the label faces outwards on the board - I don't think it matters at AF and power frequencies.
Are you tried "flywheel" topology in power amp?Also to simulate better the tube sag by introducing a series inductance after the resistor, inductance from 1mH to 100mH—a 10mH inductor would be a good place to start with a 100 ohm resistor.
drlowmu (aka Jeff Medwin) was it's messiah some years ago. 😛
This is the PSU for the output stage of my 6P45S amp... Caps are cheaper than chokes and I've never seen a choke with as low of a drop as the two 5R in it 🙂
With your parts selection, I'd probably go bridge -> 40uF - 8H -> 12+12+68+68uF...
FYI even though it's got 300+mV of ripple, the amp is silent due to the CMRR of the PP output stage.
With your parts selection, I'd probably go bridge -> 40uF - 8H -> 12+12+68+68uF...
FYI even though it's got 300+mV of ripple, the amp is silent due to the CMRR of the PP output stage.
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Are you tried "flywheel" topology in power amp?
drlowmu (aka Jeff Medwin) was it's messiah some years ago. 😛
Are you being serious or is this a light-hearted Saturday joke?
Yes, have to be ground in PSU. SG & Scope.I'm not interested in sag, so we can move on from that.
Does the outer foil of a DC link cap matter? And how do you measure it anyway?
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About a decade ago I tried it .. as like any other crazy idea: flywheel + tuned choke.Are you being serious or is this a light-hearted Saturday joke?
It's works ... sometimes ... under certain conditions ...
Under other (almost everything is different than quasi steady load) circumstances was unusable.
I surmise you could work on the cap choice if the only purpose is to add smoothness but keep what you like with the SS rectificationI've been trying out a SIC diode bridge in my driver stage so far, and now tried it out in the SE 6C4C output stage in place of a 5U4. In listening tests I'm finding it hard to find a preference.
The 5U4 is a fuller sound, more rounded, and smoother. The DIC diodes are "faster" sounding - better timing and more detail. This alone makes me want to prefer them. The sound is lighter but a little less smooth.
At first listen I like the diodes, but I would like the smoothness of the 5U4. If I could get the diodes to sound as smooth as the tube rectifier I think I'd go with them, so I'll see if adding chokes and playing around with the caps helps. PSU is C (12uF DC Link) > L (8H, 210mA, large) > C ( Kemet electrolytic 68uF, 550V) > R 750R > C (12uF DC Link).
Any suggestions? I haven't looked into shunt regs yet.
I would first swap or bypass the last e-cap with someting like an Orange drop or a clarity cap ESA or even a MKT.
You can also try a Nichicon lythic HV in spite of the Kemet. Maybe the last R with a MOX or a 10W Mills.
Worth a try. You also can to swap the firs e-cap with a plain mkt or idem bypass with an orange drop. With the mkp, does Epcos is making large mkp...also worth a try. Some oil mkp cap, some paper X2 like the PME271...
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The data sheet recommends an effect impedance per plate of 100 ohms. The HT will therefore drop over 17 Volts from 20mA to 175mA load. I call that sag.Not all tube rectifiers exhibit noticeable sag - the 5V4 with a choke input filter has negligible sag from about 20mA out to 175mA.
Cheers
Ian
The datasheet reference to 100 ohm relates only to capacitor input filter conditions. Sag is also introduced from power transformer effective resistance and load ripple due to the amount of power supply filter capacitance - that would also likely be circa 17V for an ss rectified B+ supply operating over a range of 20mA to 175mA - indicating that all ss rectifiers exhibit noticeable sag based on your call.
If only it were that simple. Sag will be introduced in an non-regulated HT supply depending on the series resistance and the change in current. The series resistance consists of the transformer secondary dcr plus the rectifier resistance and any series resistor added. Tube rectifier resistance is a lot higher than SS and tubes often require an addition series resistor to limit cathode current. The total series resistance is therefore much higher in a tube rectifier . I agree changing to an SS rectifier will not eliminate sag but it will reduce it considerably.The datasheet reference to 100 ohm relates only to capacitor input filter conditions. Sag is also introduced from power transformer effective resistance and load ripple due to the amount of power supply filter capacitance - that would also likely be circa 17V for an ss rectified B+ supply operating over a range of 20mA to 175mA - indicating that all ss rectifiers exhibit noticeable sag based on your call.
Cheers
Ian
If only it were that simple. Sag will be introduced in an non-regulated HT supply depending on the series resistance and the change in current. The series resistance consists of the transformer secondary dcr plus the rectifier resistance and any series resistor added. Tube rectifier resistance is a lot higher than SS and tubes often require an addition series resistor to limit cathode current. In addition the voltage drop across an SS rectifier is l much lower than a tube so you can use a lower secondary voltage which means less turns on the transformer and hence lower dcr. The total series resistance is therefore much higher in a tube rectifier . I agree changing to an SS rectifier will not eliminate sag but it will reduce it considerably.
Cheers
Ian
Why are we needing to explain the losses in a power supply wrt current draw after all these years?.
Sag (dynamic). Who designs that way - guitar maybe, and then only if you want it.
-
Anyway, anyone try a CCS fed shunt capacitor as B supply ? 🙂
Sag (dynamic). Who designs that way - guitar maybe, and then only if you want it.
-
Anyway, anyone try a CCS fed shunt capacitor as B supply ? 🙂
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Probably because a significant number of members of this board are amateur hobbyists with no formal engineering education. I have no problem impatring my knowledge to them, no matter how well known or trivial it may seem.Why are we needing to explain the losses in a power supply wrt current draw after all these years?.
Cheers
Ian
Hello,
Is there a consensus about Tube SS rectification and input line IHT tube please ?
My basic understanding as a non tech after reading the thread is whatever the SS diode type, both the B+ and the heater powersupply should benefice of soft start, more a delay for the B+ ...at least better if you have an expensive or non easy to get tube (mine is an E188CC from middle 75 philips Holland).
Is a cap multiplier a soft start enough for the B+ ? Are you aware of a pcb that is doing that well enough for the switch on/off of the heater, please ?
I 'd prefer a single start on button for both but have no trouble to have two separate traffo for the heater and the B+.
Currently lurking to K&K Audio kit as a noob but when you putt all together, delay, soft start, HV reg it beginns to cost for an european based people.
Not an easy question I assume and not off topic I hope as it is a line tube so needs to be quiet B+ (even more as in fact I plan tube I/V dac stage with it).
Started from Loesch soft start circuitry with chocke, I see there is no soft start delay for the IHT heater...while people say it is not fragile...you know you want sleep better at nigtht. What could be a 6.3 v reg with progressive start enough for the heater ?lt3080 ? How you know the B+ will start after jf it has a delay start as well ?
I ask because I also want to avoid a tube rectifier as the op. More because by fear of the hassle more vs SS and also to avoid coloration.
Is there a consensus about Tube SS rectification and input line IHT tube please ?
My basic understanding as a non tech after reading the thread is whatever the SS diode type, both the B+ and the heater powersupply should benefice of soft start, more a delay for the B+ ...at least better if you have an expensive or non easy to get tube (mine is an E188CC from middle 75 philips Holland).
Is a cap multiplier a soft start enough for the B+ ? Are you aware of a pcb that is doing that well enough for the switch on/off of the heater, please ?
I 'd prefer a single start on button for both but have no trouble to have two separate traffo for the heater and the B+.
Currently lurking to K&K Audio kit as a noob but when you putt all together, delay, soft start, HV reg it beginns to cost for an european based people.
Not an easy question I assume and not off topic I hope as it is a line tube so needs to be quiet B+ (even more as in fact I plan tube I/V dac stage with it).
Started from Loesch soft start circuitry with chocke, I see there is no soft start delay for the IHT heater...while people say it is not fragile...you know you want sleep better at nigtht. What could be a 6.3 v reg with progressive start enough for the heater ?lt3080 ? How you know the B+ will start after jf it has a delay start as well ?
I ask because I also want to avoid a tube rectifier as the op. More because by fear of the hassle more vs SS and also to avoid coloration.
Have a look at this:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ncludes-soft-start-h9kpxg.354971/#post6216476
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ncludes-soft-start-h9kpxg.354971/#post6216476
If I want a soft start I use the good old "standby switch" as found on stage amps (I'm a musician). I usually have a separate mains transformer for the B+ so I just put a switch on the input to that. Various ways you can do it.
Many thanks kodabmx, I am to read it. Looking for a complex good safe enough not too much expensive HV power supply...good chockes are expensive and bulky. Gyrator planned for a Mu follower.
Salas SSHV2.Anyway, anyone try a CCS fed shunt capacitor as B supply ? 🙂
I switched on my tube phono and Tungsram ECC82 flashed at turn on ... it will burn out :-( ...or not...I see there is no soft start delay for the IHT heater...while people say it is not fragile...you know you want sleep better at nigtht. What could be a 6.3 v reg with progressive start enough for the heater ?
It was about twenty years ago ... and damned tube flashing every day at turn on .. doesn't want to be ruined. 🙂
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