Hi! I have recently been on a hunt for outlets for an extensioncord for my audio gear and i have seen quite a bit of different types of conductors. I have no exprerece when it comes to which type off plugs are best for power cables and outlets, and now im reaching out to you all experience audiophiles for help.
I was wondering what is the best conductor for a outlet? (230V)
Brass
Pure copper
Phosphorus copper
I was wondering what is the best conductor for a outlet? (230V)
Brass
Pure copper
Phosphorus copper
This could end up a minefield. Or a religious conflict.
For the mains side, what @schiirrn said.
Power Cord Guide to Global Standards
In Göteborg, you likely don't have much choice for the mains end: plug Type F, according to this page.
Buying something special should not have a noticeable effect on the sound, if you have good equipment.
For the equipment end, it depends on the current draw. Get an extension cord that handles well more than (2x?) your equipment, and you won't be losing much power during transmission. Your equipment's power transformation (AC to DC) will have an overwhelmingly large effect on the sound; far more so than the power cable.
While you can pay a lot for specialty cables, there isn't any research I know of that justifies said cost. SoundGuys did an interesting piece on speaker cables; I wonder if they'd do the same for power cables.
Kind regards,
Drew
For the mains side, what @schiirrn said.
Power Cord Guide to Global Standards
In Göteborg, you likely don't have much choice for the mains end: plug Type F, according to this page.
Buying something special should not have a noticeable effect on the sound, if you have good equipment.
For the equipment end, it depends on the current draw. Get an extension cord that handles well more than (2x?) your equipment, and you won't be losing much power during transmission. Your equipment's power transformation (AC to DC) will have an overwhelmingly large effect on the sound; far more so than the power cable.
While you can pay a lot for specialty cables, there isn't any research I know of that justifies said cost. SoundGuys did an interesting piece on speaker cables; I wonder if they'd do the same for power cables.
Kind regards,
Drew
Thanks for all the answers!
The Extension cord/socket is a 1 to 3. It will be use for two mono blocks, and a dac. The Amps is class d and rated 120w each, and the dac is rated 30w. It will probaly not be paird or use in any scenarios where a draw more than 500 watt will be exceded.
The power male plug i have bought is of copper and rated 250V, 16A (4000w). Cable is pure copper and will probaly be 2,5 or 5mm2.
Im mostly not so experience when it comes to the outlets, i have watched a few, all rated for 16A 250v. And the differces is material use for the conductors, where as said in my post before: Pure copper, phosphorus copper(92%copper) and brass(80% copper).
All the outlets meets the standars and safety guids. And i was wondering if its any material that is superior, or claimed to be the best for outlets for audio gear. Its not the most expensive 250v power outlets, ranging from 3,5 to 15 euro. So its no overpriced audio parts for hundreds of dollars😀.
My guess is that pure copper is always the best, but when it comes to power outlets it might be diffent? Im not sure but therefore im asking.
The Extension cord/socket is a 1 to 3. It will be use for two mono blocks, and a dac. The Amps is class d and rated 120w each, and the dac is rated 30w. It will probaly not be paird or use in any scenarios where a draw more than 500 watt will be exceded.
The power male plug i have bought is of copper and rated 250V, 16A (4000w). Cable is pure copper and will probaly be 2,5 or 5mm2.
Im mostly not so experience when it comes to the outlets, i have watched a few, all rated for 16A 250v. And the differces is material use for the conductors, where as said in my post before: Pure copper, phosphorus copper(92%copper) and brass(80% copper).
All the outlets meets the standars and safety guids. And i was wondering if its any material that is superior, or claimed to be the best for outlets for audio gear. Its not the most expensive 250v power outlets, ranging from 3,5 to 15 euro. So its no overpriced audio parts for hundreds of dollars😀.
My guess is that pure copper is always the best, but when it comes to power outlets it might be diffent? Im not sure but therefore im asking.
You want it fixed or moving around?
Go through this and decide.
If fixed, I would use a conduit, and hard wire from an existing line, more reliable.
For your use, and fixed, 2.5 sq. mm seems enough.
If moving around, that means some other load might be plugged in, and may be excessive.
https://www.sab-cable.com/cables-wi...-section-current-carrying-capacity-table.html
Go through this and decide.
If fixed, I would use a conduit, and hard wire from an existing line, more reliable.
For your use, and fixed, 2.5 sq. mm seems enough.
If moving around, that means some other load might be plugged in, and may be excessive.
https://www.sab-cable.com/cables-wi...-section-current-carrying-capacity-table.html
For now i will have it in a enclosure as i will change room soon. But the enclosure will not be moving around alot, probaly stay at the same place at all time.
So a stiff cable would work. Typical eltrical cable in copper 2,5mm2 will probaly work fine if the chart are correct. The cables to the enclosure will be non moduler so less unecesery conections are aplied.
Using a conduit from an existing power line have i never think about before! Thank for the idee 🙂 Will try to install it as a permanent solution when i change room in a few months.
So a stiff cable would work. Typical eltrical cable in copper 2,5mm2 will probaly work fine if the chart are correct. The cables to the enclosure will be non moduler so less unecesery conections are aplied.
Using a conduit from an existing power line have i never think about before! Thank for the idee 🙂 Will try to install it as a permanent solution when i change room in a few months.
If you want a big overkill solution (why not?), look at industral cables and connectors. I would use a type CY shielded cable. The IEC 60309 plug and sockets (the blue industrial CEE plugs and sockets) are inexpensive but electrically and mechanically much better than Shuko plugs. They also easily fit oversized wires, to get the lowest possible resistence.
The best connector is no connector. Hard wired is absolute best. Good quality 1.5 or 2.5 mm2 cable advised. The average IEC cable is 0.75 to 1 mm2. For real hardcore one can use solid core cable.
Work safe and use a breaker (lower rated than the previous one like a 10A on a 16A group) directly at the spot to connect devices to. That makes it reasonably serviceable.
Work safe and use a breaker (lower rated than the previous one like a 10A on a 16A group) directly at the spot to connect devices to. That makes it reasonably serviceable.
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We would use two x 2.5 and for Earth, about 0.5 square mm, flexible multi strand, through a pipe or conduit to the new outlet, and put a breaker either at the tap on mains, or the socket side.
For this use, a single switch, controlling 6 outlets, should be enough.
Flex wire is a little less stiff, and less resistance due to skin effect.
Also easier to get and use than solid core, at least here.
We also get 3 core flexible non armored cable, in smaller sizes it is multi strand also...think air conditioner and microwave sized wires. Maybe more convenient than stringing many wires through conduits.
For this use, a single switch, controlling 6 outlets, should be enough.
Flex wire is a little less stiff, and less resistance due to skin effect.
Also easier to get and use than solid core, at least here.
We also get 3 core flexible non armored cable, in smaller sizes it is multi strand also...think air conditioner and microwave sized wires. Maybe more convenient than stringing many wires through conduits.
Have already invested in high quality plugs and connections for my existing amps, so it would be a litlle hard to implement on my current setup. But i gotta try it in the future, if true what you said that´s awesome, and they seem to be quite cheap and easy found to 😀 Thanks for the tips!
Is it any gain in using a thinner cable for ground? would 0,75mm2 work as fine as 0,5mm2? The ground cable, is it multi strand used as a shield around the other two 2,5mm2, or twisted around?
Solid core cable seem to be the most recommended cable type, so i will try to get my hands on that sort off cable first 🙂
My breaker cabinet have a 10A breaker connected to the power line currently. I was planning to not add another breaker or fuse to the power line. I have seen 10A fuse being installed on pre built hifi enclosures for 3 to 6 outlets extensions before. But that may be unnecessary in my case?
The breaker protects the cable not the load. Also selectivity is needed i.e. one does not want the main breaker to trip when 1 group is overloaded/shorted. Hence the need to use a lower value breaker.
Solid core 2,5 mm2 is standard in for instance the Netherlands. It is called "VD draad" and normally it is laid in PVC piping 16 mm. It was chosen decades ago as it is more reliable for overloads and high currents. When star points are needed so called "lasdoppen" are best but time consuming compared to the modern clamps as made by Wago. If you want very high quality no nonsense AC power then both items are what you want. For even more power/lower impedance the next size is 4 mm2 en then 6 mm2. For currents to 25A continuously when laid in the open (16A when laid in pipes) and lengths less than 25 meter 2.5 mm2 is the right and most used size. The black cable is normally 1.5 mm2 as it is the switched wire to lighting etc. Practically all switch gear, schuko wall sockets etc. are designed for the 1.5 ...2.5 mm2 solid cabling.
Here an example of one of the better brands in all 4 colors in 100 meter length. Normally a spool of 20 meters is below 10 Euro.
https://www.sandervunderink.nl/actiepakket-donne-draad-4-dozen-vd-draad.html
Solid core 2,5 mm2 is standard in for instance the Netherlands. It is called "VD draad" and normally it is laid in PVC piping 16 mm. It was chosen decades ago as it is more reliable for overloads and high currents. When star points are needed so called "lasdoppen" are best but time consuming compared to the modern clamps as made by Wago. If you want very high quality no nonsense AC power then both items are what you want. For even more power/lower impedance the next size is 4 mm2 en then 6 mm2. For currents to 25A continuously when laid in the open (16A when laid in pipes) and lengths less than 25 meter 2.5 mm2 is the right and most used size. The black cable is normally 1.5 mm2 as it is the switched wire to lighting etc. Practically all switch gear, schuko wall sockets etc. are designed for the 1.5 ...2.5 mm2 solid cabling.
Here an example of one of the better brands in all 4 colors in 100 meter length. Normally a spool of 20 meters is below 10 Euro.
https://www.sandervunderink.nl/actiepakket-donne-draad-4-dozen-vd-draad.html
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Earth wire is generally thinner here in India..
It is laid as the third conductor in single phase, no winding or twisting.
It is supposed to take the appliance earth leakage to the building Earth.
Size is chosen based on the fault current expected, for larger loads it will be proportionately larger.
Three phase + neutral + Earth is total 5 wires.
It is laid as the third conductor in single phase, no winding or twisting.
It is supposed to take the appliance earth leakage to the building Earth.
Size is chosen based on the fault current expected, for larger loads it will be proportionately larger.
Three phase + neutral + Earth is total 5 wires.
That is strange as it should be able to take the full current. Probably just an economic choice.
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Thanks for answering so elaborate! 🙂
So in a instance where a 10A breaker are used, a good quality slow-blow fuse a little bit lower rated, like 8A should work good paired with the breaker and protecting the overloads for the power strip?
I will probaly at most use a 1,5m long cable, so as long the cabel are 2,5mm2 or over it should be pretty safe. The choice for cable will mostly be determend upon acieving the lowest impedence. The connector for the power cord work with wire guage up to 5,5mm2, and the schuko sockets support up to 4mm2.
I wish you and all the rest a nice weekend, and a good saturday!😀🍻
Fuse rating in Amps should be 1.5 to 2 x full load current.
Volts x Amps = Watts.
If your system is rated 550 W, the fuse rating should be around 5 A in a 220 V system, or even 4 A.
8 A is higher than safe, and I assume your equipment has individual fuses.
Jean-Paul, we have different codes here, industrial machinery is normally connected to two different Earth pits with at least 10 Gauge galvanized wire.
Pits is plate or now chemical earthing, the plate is deep, and covered with charcoal and salt.
Watering arrangement, to add brine if needed, is also done.
A 200W bulb, phase to Earth should be full brightness to verify proper earthing.
An Earth leakage tester is needed if an installation has to certified, generally only more than 100 HP / 75 kW need that.
At home, and work, we have put the same 1/18 wire as the main conductors for earthing, so I am safe.
In commercial construction, sometimes there is a thinner wire.
Volts x Amps = Watts.
If your system is rated 550 W, the fuse rating should be around 5 A in a 220 V system, or even 4 A.
8 A is higher than safe, and I assume your equipment has individual fuses.
Jean-Paul, we have different codes here, industrial machinery is normally connected to two different Earth pits with at least 10 Gauge galvanized wire.
Pits is plate or now chemical earthing, the plate is deep, and covered with charcoal and salt.
Watering arrangement, to add brine if needed, is also done.
A 200W bulb, phase to Earth should be full brightness to verify proper earthing.
An Earth leakage tester is needed if an installation has to certified, generally only more than 100 HP / 75 kW need that.
At home, and work, we have put the same 1/18 wire as the main conductors for earthing, so I am safe.
In commercial construction, sometimes there is a thinner wire.
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Grahnen, it is exactly the combination of automatic breakers and fuses that is more complex than it at first appears. It goes way too far to explain that here. Both breakers and fuses come in various grades like F(link) and T(räge) for the fuses and A,B,C,D grades for breakers. Work tidy and always use fuses/breakers at both sides of cabling distribution points. Then have a certified electrotechnician have a look at what you built for advice/check on safety.
You can look at nice audiophile connectors and braided cable and gold pins etc. but in reality good industrial stuff is simply a very good choice. Try to look at the basis. In this area good material was/is standard but unfortunately cheap Far East stuff is also coming on the market.
You can look at nice audiophile connectors and braided cable and gold pins etc. but in reality good industrial stuff is simply a very good choice. Try to look at the basis. In this area good material was/is standard but unfortunately cheap Far East stuff is also coming on the market.
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I have bad knowledge when it comes to fuse rating and all that, i have always thought that its quiet messy, i have previous ask about the fuse rating and the answer seems to always differ. What NareshBrd mention seem to be what i belived before, but i has been told differently by others. But as i have look more into it i think i have understand how it work better now.
Fuses value differs alot between types and brands. But i think i have atleast got the clue for what i can use for my system and all devices in it. Fuse rating dependes on type of fuse, fast-blow are often a little bit higher rated. Fusses seems also to differ between brands, and some need higher rating then normal. Therefore its seems like alot off people have different go to value for different power ratings.
I have found atleast one brand that seem to have it pretty clear describe how you should calculate for their types of fuses. And that seem to be to use NareshBrd method but multiple it with 1,5-1,7. So for an exampel, in my mono amps rated 120w, i should use 2A for their fuses. And in the power strip it should be 7A instead off 4-5A for 550w as these fuses need to be a little bit higher rated then normal slow-blows.
Fuses value differs alot between types and brands. But i think i have atleast got the clue for what i can use for my system and all devices in it. Fuse rating dependes on type of fuse, fast-blow are often a little bit higher rated. Fusses seems also to differ between brands, and some need higher rating then normal. Therefore its seems like alot off people have different go to value for different power ratings.
I have found atleast one brand that seem to have it pretty clear describe how you should calculate for their types of fuses. And that seem to be to use NareshBrd method but multiple it with 1,5-1,7. So for an exampel, in my mono amps rated 120w, i should use 2A for their fuses. And in the power strip it should be 7A instead off 4-5A for 550w as these fuses need to be a little bit higher rated then normal slow-blows.
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