WIRE-NUTS?? I thought the Netherlands was a civilized country?
Size of ground wire "depends". In US code it is same-size up to 20 or 30 Amps; larger is usually allowed one size smaller. My 3-#6 50A work-garage cable has #8 ground. The 3-#10 to the drier has #12 ground.
I can pull 19.9 Amps on a #12 all day and all night long. I should not be drawing ANY current from the green wire. If I do get real current in the green, the line-fuse (breaker) will cut the power. Our US ampacity charts have considerable safety margin.
This is different from downsizing the Neutral. (In our center-tap connection.) In simpler times "we could assume" that either line wire or the neutral, but not all three, could reach rated current. This is safe for incandescent lamps, ovens, dryers. But big 3-phase rectifiers (computer systems) were burning-off their neutrals.
The USA uses a different wiring scheme on the transformers, such as 220 V supply is from two phases.
Our step down transformers for domestic and light industrial use are wired 11 kV/220V x 3 phase + Neutral, Earth is not connected to Neutral as in other countries.
This can get a little confusing for people from other countries.
Here the normal range of 415 V is up to 440V, between phases, and in some parts of the USA, it seems the three phases are 580V between phases in industrial supply.
So you can have 220V, maybe 380 V and 580 V between phases in multi phase supplies in the USA...
Our step down transformers for domestic and light industrial use are wired 11 kV/220V x 3 phase + Neutral, Earth is not connected to Neutral as in other countries.
This can get a little confusing for people from other countries.
Here the normal range of 415 V is up to 440V, between phases, and in some parts of the USA, it seems the three phases are 580V between phases in industrial supply.
So you can have 220V, maybe 380 V and 580 V between phases in multi phase supplies in the USA...
These simple devices make for the best connection as wires should be turned together and then the lasdop is wound over that wires making contact with the internal coil. So in effect there are several connections between the wires themselves and also the coil. Magnificent in simplicity and effectivity. These never burn out. The fake news regarding the supposedly bad quality is by Wago that produced burning out wire clamps themselves (more recent Wago clamps are OK). The pot calling the kettle black. I attached an example of the fake news spreader. Please note the incorrectly stripped wires to emphasize wire nuts and the persons that use them being silly.
An important detail is that here stranded wire is not allowed in installations which makes wire nuts still a good choice. In other EU countries stranded and solid wire are both used so then wire clamps are a forced choice.
Needless to say that they are replaced for faster methods that do burn out. Still available though for use by electricians in their own homes 🙂
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Here I have seen 2 pole connectors with springs to hold the wires instead of screws.
Time saving, and no screwdriver needed, so up on a wall it is quite convenient.
About 20 cents each for 1.5 square mm wire....one pair of wires can be connected fast.
Also useful on a test bench.
Time saving, and no screwdriver needed, so up on a wall it is quite convenient.
About 20 cents each for 1.5 square mm wire....one pair of wires can be connected fast.
Also useful on a test bench.
On some Chinese lights a modified crimp lug is used, a leg has in wire, the other the out wire, and the whole thing is in a plastic sleeve.
You crimp it tight using pliers.
It allows one side to be done at a time.
Another version is a brass tube in a plastic sleeve, twist both wires, insert in tube, and crimp.
Sleeve is closed at one end, so more an end cap than a sleeve.
You crimp it tight using pliers.
It allows one side to be done at a time.
Another version is a brass tube in a plastic sleeve, twist both wires, insert in tube, and crimp.
Sleeve is closed at one end, so more an end cap than a sleeve.