I need to build subwoofers that are easy to carry, unfortunately I am just moving them, I have to use them under a system that has 2 speakers per side, very efficient with 106db full range each.
I currently have 6 tham 15s loaded with 15hp1030 of faital, the bass is a bit low compared to the speakers, the idea could have been to add another tham or two other thames, but that would also involve bringing another power amp with rack. The idea was to remake the 6 basses with a better design, but let it not be huge, I have seen the paraflex and they are really nice, but I don't know how much more efficient they are than the tham. I accept advice 🙂 thanks
paraflex example https://preview.redd.it/cfjxztcom7u61.jpg?auto=webp&s=a092981aa4d9fbad2df9b14c8adb3e73973ca974
I currently have 6 tham 15s loaded with 15hp1030 of faital, the bass is a bit low compared to the speakers, the idea could have been to add another tham or two other thames, but that would also involve bringing another power amp with rack. The idea was to remake the 6 basses with a better design, but let it not be huge, I have seen the paraflex and they are really nice, but I don't know how much more efficient they are than the tham. I accept advice 🙂 thanks
paraflex example https://preview.redd.it/cfjxztcom7u61.jpg?auto=webp&s=a092981aa4d9fbad2df9b14c8adb3e73973ca974
Which amp are you currently using on the 6x THAM15, and are you reaching the limiters? I'd be looking for something like a Crown MA12000i to make maximum use of the drivers.
I don't think a Paraflex will give you much more output than a tapped horn.
Chris
I don't think a Paraflex will give you much more output than a tapped horn.
Chris
hi chris, i use only one original lab gruppen fp14000, I have calibrated the limiter of the xta so as to never go to red, the parameters are automatic
In use, does the amplifier get close to its red lights?
I'm wondering if opening up the limiter settings a bit will get you more output for free. What're the settings in the XTA?
Chris
I'm wondering if opening up the limiter settings a bit will get you more output for free. What're the settings in the XTA?
Chris
Adding to Chris question, how do you process them with regards to high pass filtering?
The HP1030's are specd to take 2kW (2xAES) and assuming you run three in parallell/Ch of the FP14000 (nominally 2,667 Ohms asuming 8 Ohm drivers) you will see something like 2kW/driver which on the surface seems like a good match and perfectly safe for both amp and drivers.
In detail it might look slightly different though, as the impedance signature of the speakers in some areas of the operating range limits the input power significantly, and on top of that you will have powercompression stepping in fairly quickly.
Any sign or indication of the drivers being overpowered? (thermal, distortion etc.)?
The HP1030's are specd to take 2kW (2xAES) and assuming you run three in parallell/Ch of the FP14000 (nominally 2,667 Ohms asuming 8 Ohm drivers) you will see something like 2kW/driver which on the surface seems like a good match and perfectly safe for both amp and drivers.
In detail it might look slightly different though, as the impedance signature of the speakers in some areas of the operating range limits the input power significantly, and on top of that you will have powercompression stepping in fairly quickly.
Any sign or indication of the drivers being overpowered? (thermal, distortion etc.)?
On the lab gruppen I have not limited with the dip switches and I have the led -4 normally on and I rarely have the red vlp led that turns on, so I think I am on 0. at 2.7 ohm I think I have almost 2kw single cone!
Now I've put up a post on how to set up a measurement system so you can better understand if I'm messing with the phase!
I'm probably the problem, used to many tekno parties where the bass is too much compared to the MH frequencies!
Among the projects I was looking at, having two unused faital 18hp1010 and 2 ciare pw455 both 4 ohm, I could make ur Roar 18 and manage it from a separate power amp (e25 mc2) how much should the delay be between the tham15 and the roar 18? maybe I could also make two cabinet roar 18 !!!
and nothing i am falling in love with this project, version 18 i dont know if it goes well with my drivers though
https://www.martinsson.cc/blog/images/ROAR12_build_5.jpg
https://www.martinsson.cc/blog/images/ROAR12_build_5.jpg
First, pay no attention to the silly "Iron" Law - it leaves out the chance you are smart enough to do things better.
Weight and ease of moving are not the same. Weight and size likewise not trade-offs since smart bracing or better materials can be introduced.
Just for example, I made a 17-foot labyrinth that weighs 45 lbs and was in two pieces easily joined together:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/322418-17-foot-pipe-sub-12-230-hz-5db.html
Weight and ease of moving are not the same. Weight and size likewise not trade-offs since smart bracing or better materials can be introduced.
Just for example, I made a 17-foot labyrinth that weighs 45 lbs and was in two pieces easily joined together:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/322418-17-foot-pipe-sub-12-230-hz-5db.html
I can’t suggest drivers of this size (little experience with any), but if you want to lighten the box build push-push woofers with 2 15s instead of an 18 or 2 x 12 instead of 1 15.
Done right th emajority of the weight comes from the drivers.
dave
Done right th emajority of the weight comes from the drivers.
dave
If you don't have one already...
I hardly move my speakers around at all, but I still got one of those.
I use some loading straps to make sure the speakers are secure while moving, and a carpet dedicated solely for this purpose to protect against scrapes'n'bumps.
Involving other people is more of a chore than just dragging them about myself.
I hardly move my speakers around at all, but I still got one of those.
I use some loading straps to make sure the speakers are secure while moving, and a carpet dedicated solely for this purpose to protect against scrapes'n'bumps.
Involving other people is more of a chore than just dragging them about myself.
6*THAM15 on a large amp should be loud, perhaps its the low bass you are missing? THAM15 only goes down to ~50Hz. Any sub upgrade is going to reduce portability but you might be able to manage SKRAMs if you don't need to lift them: https://data-bass.ipbhost.com/topic/742-riccis-skram-subwoofer-files/
The drivers on the THAM are accesible so its worth feeling the motor after a few hours and also (although less accesible) the dust cap to see if their is any sign of heating a driver pushed close to its thermal limit will get a hot motor and dust cap (the voice coil is just under the dust cap). If your not getting warm drivers they can take more power.
The drivers on the THAM are accesible so its worth feeling the motor after a few hours and also (although less accesible) the dust cap to see if their is any sign of heating a driver pushed close to its thermal limit will get a hot motor and dust cap (the voice coil is just under the dust cap). If your not getting warm drivers they can take more power.
This sub design achieves very high SPL for its size: https://data-bass.com/#/systems/5c48bfc611126b0004ca12eb?_k=uypwbt
you could also try locating all your subs together as this will cause them to constructivly sum together better, especially noticeable outdoors.
you could also try locating all your subs together as this will cause them to constructivly sum together better, especially noticeable outdoors.
If you are interested, I just finished a V1 verison of a 18" cabinet which uses a short horn for the upper extension (so comparable y SKhorn, SKRAM etc) and a laminar vent for the lower end.
Tuning is targeted at 35 Hz and only drivers with strong motors are reccomended (18NLW9601, 18DS115 etc). Due to being busy with other designs, I did not have the time yet to build it. Dimensions are 606x606x800mm.
Tuning is targeted at 35 Hz and only drivers with strong motors are reccomended (18NLW9601, 18DS115 etc). Due to being busy with other designs, I did not have the time yet to build it. Dimensions are 606x606x800mm.
Hi,I cannot carry big and heavy things (we will use the system in establishments with stairs, platforms, sand etc.)
Maybe too late, but still...
The Tham15 box is by no means small. I wonder how you carry it up the stairs, but I think the shape helps you. If it is not the shape, then you can squeeze modern 18" in that size Easily (if not smaller), and I did that with 21".
The small box volume causes less cone excursion, so big coil driver is heavily recommended, just starting at 4.5" like B&C 18SW115 or 18DS115.
These drivers will work in 80-100l of clean internal volume no problem. And if you under-tune them and HPF them wisely, you get seriously bass-dense box.
Due to the box limited cone excursion and low tuning with high HPF, you will only work the speaker around its impedance peak, thus avoiding thermal compression or port compression. The driver can work it all nearly itself with just the cone. The port is there for impedance shaping, cooling and cone movement restriction, not that much for the sound. Compared in real life, it works. I did it with 21"s first, but now will go down to 18"s. Oh and 21" will still fit in the volume. Mine is under 230l of outer box volume, with 100mm casters.
I really wonder why nobody really caught on that possibility of modern high excursion drivers.
The Tham15 box is by no means small. I wonder how you carry it up the stairs, but I think the shape helps you. If it is not the shape, then you can squeeze modern 18" in that size Easily (if not smaller), and I did that with 21".
The small box volume causes less cone excursion, so big coil driver is heavily recommended, just starting at 4.5" like B&C 18SW115 or 18DS115.
These drivers will work in 80-100l of clean internal volume no problem. And if you under-tune them and HPF them wisely, you get seriously bass-dense box.
Due to the box limited cone excursion and low tuning with high HPF, you will only work the speaker around its impedance peak, thus avoiding thermal compression or port compression. The driver can work it all nearly itself with just the cone. The port is there for impedance shaping, cooling and cone movement restriction, not that much for the sound. Compared in real life, it works. I did it with 21"s first, but now will go down to 18"s. Oh and 21" will still fit in the volume. Mine is under 230l of outer box volume, with 100mm casters.
I really wonder why nobody really caught on that possibility of modern high excursion drivers.