I'm sure there's a lot more information out there but this Youtube video gives some insight as to what we'll find inside a ProAC.
Regards,
Dan
Regards,
Dan
Most of the Heissmann designs are mid-eighties in efficiency which doesn't favour my collection of 25W Pass Lab amps?
Regards,
Dan
Regards,
Dan
The one that people seem to neglect is the Travelers. Jim put in a really good word for that design. A good bargain too if it does what I think it does.
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ery/1428596-the-travelers-new-year-new-design
I like what I see there. Very nicely made speaker. My friend bought a pair of mint Proac RS1sc Ebony with massive target stands for $1k locally a couple of years ago. I wanted to borrow his pair in order to improve on my RS1s clone but he is afraid that I will take them apart and scratch the screws.....He wasn't afraid letting me check on his $16k McIntosh Millennium tube amp when it malfunctioned since it would have costed him with shipping around $500 to get McIntosh to just open the hood but the vision of scratched wood screws on the back of a speaker would ruin all the qualities of speakers for sure eh ...
Newer versions of RS1 didn't have removable back because the screws tended to rust in tropical Asian climates (main market for those) so in order to fit crossover board through the woofer's hole they did have to use iron core inductors and lesser quality caps. It is a classic speaker which will always find a buyer. Reportedly works fine with tube and low power amps.
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That depends on your listening distance and how loud you like to play. For most of what I listen to it would be plenty. Despite what many people will try to tell you, 90dB at the ears is pretty loud in a domestic environment.
Agree. Should be fine in most circumstances. I have you used 85-88 sensitivity 8 ohm with an F6. I had to crank the preamp a bit but it was good. This was using a Korg nutube b1
If you have an opportunity to buy the ProAc at a good price, I would do so. Enjoy them for a while and use them to hone your tastes in preparation for your next speaker purchase. Also, the fact that I can't just buy the designs from Troels also bothers me - I have to buy the Jantzen caps that I don't want and then pay more than $100 to ship them and deal with the hassle of a bank transfer on top of all that to pay for them.
It's rotten world. To me as long as I'm willing to put the work everything else should be provided for free hmmm
I have a Friend like that. He wouldnt let med Borrow his trailer when it was new and unscrathed. Now its all rotten and holed from standing in the rain. Well I love him anyway😁
If I can have a say in this, then I say "not to Troels". Troels does not make any measurements off-axis and his speakers are not as well thought through as some beginners may think. He can tune crossovers on-axis and that is basically the end of the story.
I would not build a Troels.
I think they are too much money and too complicated-uneccessary.
Which Pro Ac are you looking at? Which Troels speaker.
2 of the best DIY Speaker sites are:
https://ampslab.com/WP_SPK/spk_projects.htm
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/floorstanding-speakers/tarkus
One of the trickiest part of speaker building is the front baffle (without a router and circle jig)- recess for the drivers. The woofer and mid on the Tarkus are surface mount, but not the tweeter.
The tweeter can be done with an 1/8" thick (whatever the flange depth) hardboard, cut to the hole diameter of the tweeter (104 mm) & mid. Glue this on the baffle- thin baffle on thick baffle.
I did this on my Ariels with vinyl/leather Sonus Faber type look.
I think they are too much money and too complicated-uneccessary.
Which Pro Ac are you looking at? Which Troels speaker.
2 of the best DIY Speaker sites are:
https://ampslab.com/WP_SPK/spk_projects.htm
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/floorstanding-speakers/tarkus
One of the trickiest part of speaker building is the front baffle (without a router and circle jig)- recess for the drivers. The woofer and mid on the Tarkus are surface mount, but not the tweeter.
The tweeter can be done with an 1/8" thick (whatever the flange depth) hardboard, cut to the hole diameter of the tweeter (104 mm) & mid. Glue this on the baffle- thin baffle on thick baffle.
I did this on my Ariels with vinyl/leather Sonus Faber type look.
My point of view. Troels has put a great deal of work into both his designs and website. Also, every time I've emailed him he has answered promptly. For those reasons and many more I find his prices acceptable.
Regards,
Dan 😉
I think that I should clarify why Purifi 6R is good design and 6661 is not. 6661 does not have measurements off-axis as they would be really bad. Woofers are crossed way to high up with 2 order filters and there will be lobing. Tweeter and mid on slanted baffle also gives poor results off-axis.
I just cannot understand why Troels some of his designs is not thinking through?
If we where to take the best of this two designs then we would get top part with Purifi mid and Viawave GRT on straight baffle. Lower part would be 2 woofers (I would find something cheaper than Purifi) crossed low enough not to get lobing (depend on filter steepnes). Crossover to two woofers is preferebly below 200Hz as then they will work together at least to 300-400Hz.
Looking once again at Purifi 6R I'm not quite sure that vertical off-axis won't be poor as well as we get hints of that when he measures speaker at different listening hights.
I just cannot understand why Troels some of his designs is not thinking through?
If we where to take the best of this two designs then we would get top part with Purifi mid and Viawave GRT on straight baffle. Lower part would be 2 woofers (I would find something cheaper than Purifi) crossed low enough not to get lobing (depend on filter steepnes). Crossover to two woofers is preferebly below 200Hz as then they will work together at least to 300-400Hz.
Looking once again at Purifi 6R I'm not quite sure that vertical off-axis won't be poor as well as we get hints of that when he measures speaker at different listening hights.
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At the risk of getting way off topic here............. here is a link that tries to explain your point? Lobing
Regards,
Dan 🙂
Dan,
I don't understand your fascination with ProAc, either from the video or the speaker you linked to earlier. Any of Troels CNO speakers will get you more. I have a speaker similar to CNO 25 that Rick Craig designed for me in 2003 that has served me well ever since. I've added a sub for the bottom couple of octaves. My speaker uses the Excel W18 rather than the CNO nextel drivers. Feel free to PM me if you are interested in any information.
Steve
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"I don't understand your fascination with ProAc" So why Rick Craig designed the speaker looking like ProAc?🙂 and why Troels continue to "design" speakers based on factory made ones? ProAc has followers because it provides joyful experience to wide group of music lovers not concerned with technicalities. It just strikes the right balance which many people find compelling. There is no "conspiracy" theory behind it and Steven Tyler is a really nice, close to earth and modest guy. I emailed him several times asking for help with some of their older models and he always answered promptly.