Given that FA22 works well sealed, a proper TL will be large.
I recently put these up for free use, it is the phase plug i use in FA22. The base of the plug need sto be notched to fit around the non-flat bits of the polepiece.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/B200-phase-plug.pdf
dave
I recently put these up for free use, it is the phase plug i use in FA22. The base of the plug need sto be notched to fit around the non-flat bits of the polepiece.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/B200-phase-plug.pdf
dave
Dave,
How do you instal taht. Do you need to cut the dust cap away? Would you descrieb the process if you would?
Thanks,
Steve
How do you instal taht. Do you need to cut the dust cap away? Would you descrieb the process if you would?
Thanks,
Steve
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Dustcaps com eoff improvement right there) and then the phase plugs attach isung the magnet in the polepiec eand the 2 steel scres on the bottom. They are removable (and adjustable)
If someone makes an STL file i will post it on the website.
dave
If someone makes an STL file i will post it on the website.
dave
Dustcap comes off. I don’t have pictures of the FA22, but the process is similar across drivers. Can’t recall how careful you be to not sever the connection to the whizzer.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/pp-install.html
dave
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/pp-install.html
dave
I have tested Seas FA22 the last 10 years in different configs. OB, MLTL and this summer with a tweeter. I even cut of the wizzer cone. The best result is to cross over at +/- 2000 Hz and use a tweeter.
If cutting out the whizzer and using a tweeter then why not just use a good 8" woofer??
Is there and advantage to staying with FA22RCZ in a 2 way system
FA22 is one of the few 8” of any sort that works well in a sealed box, i see no issue with using it as just a woofer. Would help with the ragged top-end. Something the phase pugs work to improve.
dave
dave
I used passive crossover but active with dsp is even better.
The beauty with this driver is very low MMS and high QMS which i think sounds open and with fast transients.
I live close to the Seas factory and was lucky to visit them and see both the production and R&D. At that time the FA22RZC wasnt released but was in the R&D office. I said: wow, are you making fullrange drivers? They answered with a laugh: you shouldnt see that 🙂
I hade a communication with the CEO this summer and he told that they make FA22RZC without wizzercone to a OEM customer as a high end midwoofer. Thats exiting.
The beauty with this driver is very low MMS and high QMS which i think sounds open and with fast transients.
I live close to the Seas factory and was lucky to visit them and see both the production and R&D. At that time the FA22RZC wasnt released but was in the R&D office. I said: wow, are you making fullrange drivers? They answered with a laugh: you shouldnt see that 🙂
I hade a communication with the CEO this summer and he told that they make FA22RZC without wizzercone to a OEM customer as a high end midwoofer. Thats exiting.
I was also experimenting with mine. I agree it works best as a midwoofer. It beams too much and the treble doesn't sound that great, nowhere near a decent tweeter. However I think crossing at 4kHz would be better, moves it away from the sensitive frequency region.
Tried it on an old Sony TL speaker box. The bass was phenomenal...
Your design looks really nice, reminds me of the audionote speakers. I reallylike the sound of the audionote...
Oon
The oem version i mentioned without wizzercone cone has phase plug AND a dedicated tweeter in the loudspeaker.
The cheapest tweeter will sound much better than the option with phase plug.
The best tweeter sound i have heard in a ordinary fullrange speaker is with Markaudio 5.2 Gold.
The cheapest tweeter will sound much better than the option with phase plug.
The best tweeter sound i have heard in a ordinary fullrange speaker is with Markaudio 5.2 Gold.
Possibly. But you have to add an XO and non-coincident drivers. Right where the er is most sensitive.
dave
dave
Markaudio 5.2 and Seas FA22 with low crossover could be an interesting option then. In a closed cabinet.
My implementation using the Seas 8" fullrange is as follows:
The pictures show fullrange wide box, and the reversed bass placed at the floor behind the fullrange stands, the lights on top is a DIY "audiophile nixie clock"🙂
- Sealed wide box for the 8" fullrange for directivity (see Grimm LS1)
- Crossed at 250 hz to a Seas 8" bass aludriver
- Sealed Seas 8" bass reversed direction, plays into the front wall for directivity, (see Dutch & Dutch 8c)
The pictures show fullrange wide box, and the reversed bass placed at the floor behind the fullrange stands, the lights on top is a DIY "audiophile nixie clock"🙂
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Sorry, I forgot that I also posted my system on page one of this thread. However, I do have some remarks about the sound:
When the fullrange is releived from bass duty, the sound quite improved. I find it to be very satisfying and compared to my Spendor SP1/2R2, there is no question for me that the Seas is superior in all ways. Particularly when it comes to presentation of a holographic and large open soundstage. When measured in REW - it is evident that the sealed box has much less ringing, and the transients (step response) is on a whole different level compared to the bassreflex Spendor.
When the fullrange is releived from bass duty, the sound quite improved. I find it to be very satisfying and compared to my Spendor SP1/2R2, there is no question for me that the Seas is superior in all ways. Particularly when it comes to presentation of a holographic and large open soundstage. When measured in REW - it is evident that the sealed box has much less ringing, and the transients (step response) is on a whole different level compared to the bassreflex Spendor.