The Black Hole......

Totally off the audio subject, I am rebuilding a WWII machine tool. A Brown and Sharpe #2B surface grinder...

I worked in a machine shop in HS and operated an old B&S surface grinder, I believe I have related how I heard and saw a 10" x 1" wheel explode on one, it left rectangular holes in the roof and window and a shocked op...

I'd love to add a surface grinder to my shop but I'm about out of room...

Cheers!
Howie
 
There is no substitute for massive cast iron on a machine tool. Although concrete comes close. And at the age of the machine it should be really stable.
Ultimate knife sharpener.
Maybe the bigger motor frame helps reduce motor vibration. 208 vs 220 should not make a difference. And make sure you have the proper low voltage protection or you could fry the motor.

Many/most of the ultra-precision machine tools have switched to "epoxy granite" (powder and stones of a wide range of sizes mixed with ~9 %vol epoxy) for their castings. Better vibration absorption than cast iron, and IIRC more favorable CTE.

But, yes, you can go a LONG WAYS with good old cast iron. Would love to (eventually) have the space to get a surface grinder and enough attachments to be dangerous. Being in DOD/aircraft country, I see a bunch of old grinders around Craigslist/the like.

Have fun with your new, old toy, Ed!
 
No magnetic chuck. You have to make one out of an old transformer! Take apart the core and reuse the E sections all pointing the same way. A small DC supply on what was the secondary and to finish grind it flat.

The auction where I got the grinders was of a shop where I suspect none of the machinery was in first class operating condition! Typically any useful small tools that would have fit in the back of a pickup truck were not to be found on site anymore.
 
I think the reason the bearings were good and the ways only slightly worn is it is the version 2B or not the 2. The plain 2 was the version with power feed on the X and Y table axis. The 2B was manual hand wheel movement only. So any time it got used it would have been used for smaller precise stuff. Useful grinding area is 6” x 18”. As my largest tooling is 3.5” in diameter it is the right tool for me.

I now realize the oil and paraffin mixture is a great idea for the unpainted metal surfaces. However as I do have purpose made way oil, I will use that on the ways. I also have electric motor oil for the motor bearings.

On the tool’s spindle I first used 0 weight Mobil One oil. Of course this leaked out of the bearings cleaning out the black sludge. Turns out the bearing originally had too much front to back play. This was caused by the adjustment screw being turned in far too much in an attempt to reduce friction. Once the Black Death was cleaned out, the screw could be adjusted for apparently no end play. Using a thicker synthetic oil it seems to stay in the bearings.

Now if I can remember how to reassemble everything correctly... (Good thing I have a second unit to refer to.)
 
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On the tool’s spindle I first used 0 weight Mobil One oil. Of course this leaked out of the bearings cleaning out the black sludge. Turns out the bearing originally had too much front to back play. This was caused by the adjustment screw being turned in far too much in an attempt to reduce friction. Once the Black Death was cleaned out, the screw could be adjusted for apparently no end play. Using a thicker synthetic oil it seems to stay in the bearings.

I'm just LARPing with my minilathe, but I was surprised by the difference when I used Amsoil on the ways. With normal motor oil the oil turns grey on the top slide, but that doesn't happen nearly so fast with Amsoil. I scraped the stop slide flat, so I don't think there is embedded grit. It just seems to be made with a cast iron that easily rubs off into powder. I also have a bottle of low weight Mobil 1 Annual oil which is better but not quite as good as the Amsoil.
 
Seems you will have to wait

Hans
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I'm just LARPing with my minilathe, but I was surprised by the difference when I used Amsoil on the ways. With normal motor oil the oil turns grey on the top slide, but that doesn't happen nearly so fast with Amsoil. I scraped the stop slide flat, so I don't think there is embedded grit. It just seems to be made with a cast iron that easily rubs off into powder. I also have a bottle of low weight Mobil 1 Annual oil which is better but not quite as good as the Amsoil.

I have a gallon bottle of Mobil Vactra #2 way oil I use. I got it for my turret punch which has bed travel of 1M by .5M so a bit of way to keep oiled. I then use it on my press brake which is 8'. So a bit more on the 6" x 19" grinder should be easy. However since I do like to lubricate regularly, I am down to my last pint or so. Only lasted 22 years!

MOBIL VACTRA OIL NO 2