I originally ran them as a single driver where they could go down to about 50-60 hz. Not content with that, I added the 18s. I ultimately crossed them at around 100Hz, to reduce any potential cone motion based IM in the F15s.
If you look on the Lii website, I believe they came up with a 12" version also, that's designed to go deeper, by using a more complaint suspension. Unsure where the reviews stand on that unit, as I've never read one.
Accommodating the "helper" woofer is more of a pain than simply running a driver FR, but the rewards of listening afterward is worth it. Bass pretty darn close to the standup being right there in the room.
Sure wish I could have my 22 year old ears, to hear what these really sound like... Thank God I can still hear and appreciate coherence. That's why I hang out in the FR forum. Supertweeter? Might as well put a resistor there for my ears.
If you look on the Lii website, I believe they came up with a 12" version also, that's designed to go deeper, by using a more complaint suspension. Unsure where the reviews stand on that unit, as I've never read one.
Accommodating the "helper" woofer is more of a pain than simply running a driver FR, but the rewards of listening afterward is worth it. Bass pretty darn close to the standup being right there in the room.
Sure wish I could have my 22 year old ears, to hear what these really sound like... Thank God I can still hear and appreciate coherence. That's why I hang out in the FR forum. Supertweeter? Might as well put a resistor there for my ears.
same here in regards to adding a tweeter. i am 35 and the F-15 just about goes as high as my ears can hear so i tweeter added. now supertweeter is just plain a waste
Dadbeh - Loving those OB's. Are those mounted in glass or plexi? Also, why the added wood if it is not needed for mounting the speakers in? It looks nice, but I suspect that the completely clear might have a higher WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor). What are you using for the woofer? Emminence 15 A's and B's seem to be pretty popular. Did you try the F15's without the woofer and if so, can you share your before and after listening impressions?
jjasniew,
Are your Open Baffle's (OB's) based somewhat on the Caintuck/Decware baffle's? Have you tried the F15 in a squared off baffle? If so, can you also provide some rounded v. square listening impressions?
Thanks all
jjasniew,
Are your Open Baffle's (OB's) based somewhat on the Caintuck/Decware baffle's? Have you tried the F15 in a squared off baffle? If so, can you also provide some rounded v. square listening impressions?
Thanks all
jjasniew,
I have not heard the F12 but some of the guys on the Decware forums think that the F12 is warmer sounding but not as detailed as the F15 and the bass doesn't hit as hard. As always, your mileage may vary.
I have not heard the F12 but some of the guys on the Decware forums think that the F12 is warmer sounding but not as detailed as the F15 and the bass doesn't hit as hard. As always, your mileage may vary.
its plexi that i had cut with water jet. yes having all the front with plexi would have a higher WAF but the i just wanted that slammin' bass. a design like this with two woofers that are run with external crossover and its own amp is so flexible in the sense that you cant say it is "warm", it is "bright", it is full range etc. you can make it whatever you want. I can make it bass heavy or bass light or i can take the woofers out and make the F-15s full range from my phone because i control the crossover with an app from my phone. I can increase the gain slightly for the F-15 and the speaker becomes "bright". basically the balance that a speaker designer sets up in its design phase for its speaker, i play with it all the time.
now i have the F-15 on caintuck baffles and for bass i use two jbl 15 inch woofer in box. its not really a subwoofer, its two vintage speakers that I have repurposed and crossed over under 100hz.
in my judgement F-15 needs bass augmentation but no tweeter.
"in my judgement F-15 needs bass augmentation but no tweeter." -- without bass augmentation, does F-15 simply lack the lowest bottom, or become overall thin-sounding, or both? Thanks!
I made these from conference room table stock I sourced from a Washington State Government recycling agency. I recognized the "tombstone" shape when I saw them for sale. I used "the edge" to find the offset placement for the F15, as I've read that "centered" isnt the best arrangement.
I've never tried a square baffle!
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I know the question wasnt directed to me, however thinking it through, if the F15 (from my experience on an OB) does ~60-70 hz, I'd say yeah, it lacks the lowest bottom.
You'd need something in addition to cover an octave below that; 30 - 35Hz and upward to meet the F15.
And if the baffle is less substantial or smaller than yours, Which is the case for my f-15, then the need for lower frequency augmentation is more and more substantial. your baffle is already pretty wide and tall and extends to the ground which is the best case scenario, if you then measured to going to 60-70 then rest assured a miniature baffle like the one on my picture above will start to fret around 120Hz
F-15 doesn't sound thin or anemic, in fact I couldn't get it to sound bad no matter how bad and inadequate the baffle was. But the need for lower frequency augmentation is just a fact of of single driver design
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> in fact I couldn't get it to sound bad no matter how bad and inadequate the baffle was.
If you look at my avatar 😱 I started with mine just the bare drivers on a stand! That got me out lookin' for some baffle board right quick.
If you look at my avatar 😱 I started with mine just the bare drivers on a stand! That got me out lookin' for some baffle board right quick.
Using WinISD beta & goofing with parameters for a BR enclosure...If one has the physical space...With Four cubic meters worth of internal dimensions, and an fb of 24.5, it can actually be tamed. A correspondingly monstrous "port", 0.7 meters by 0.9 meters, 187 mm deep...the graphing gets a "settled" bottom end. Going lower, as it passes 150 hertz, it climbs to +3 Db by 70 hertz & holds it to about 24 hertz...past which, it falls like a rock to 20.27 hertz by the time it gets to f3...
IT would "look" massively weird, but it will work.
========================================Rick..........
IT would "look" massively weird, but it will work.
========================================Rick..........
Hi All,
Could you suggest me a simple simulator for OB panels in order to make a project for this driver? I have no space problem in my "cave", so even a big banel would be good...
Could you suggest me a simple simulator for OB panels in order to make a project for this driver? I have no space problem in my "cave", so even a big banel would be good...
I'm tempted by these big guys, I'd put them into a Wharfdale SFB3 style open baffle.
Off centre, 90 cm W x 80 cm H x 33 cm D with a sloping front
Wharfedale SFB/3 | Inner Magazines
JE Labs Arkiv (up to 2008): G. A. Briggs - Evolution of the Wharfedale SFB3 Open Baffle
Off centre, 90 cm W x 80 cm H x 33 cm D with a sloping front
Wharfedale SFB/3 | Inner Magazines
JE Labs Arkiv (up to 2008): G. A. Briggs - Evolution of the Wharfedale SFB3 Open Baffle
I would put the driver into a bass reflex cabinet tuned to 30 Hertz and then let a dsp run on it in like the DEQ2496 (with microfone) in the nearfield (20 to 30cm on axis or slightly off axis). This works well with the bass reflex port close to the driver on the front as this gives the summed response.
Measuring in the near field makes the loudspeaker work linear. This is a domain of fullrange loudspeakers as they are point sources. Multi-Way loudspeakers are not this easy to measure. Usually you need an anechoic chamber in order to do it right.
You get a flat frequency response and the bass reflex enhancement in the bass.
The driver Q does not play any role in this setup. After the frequency correction and a low cut below 30 Hertz you get a loudspeaker with a perfect time response.
Measuring in the near field makes the loudspeaker work linear. This is a domain of fullrange loudspeakers as they are point sources. Multi-Way loudspeakers are not this easy to measure. Usually you need an anechoic chamber in order to do it right.
You get a flat frequency response and the bass reflex enhancement in the bass.
The driver Q does not play any role in this setup. After the frequency correction and a low cut below 30 Hertz you get a loudspeaker with a perfect time response.
