Favorite Drivers at every price point and WHY?

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#142
I believe it is maybe a good candidate for you between a mid textreme and your Fostex.
Btw the DA25TX is more linear but less robust foe a 6DB. Now maybe in a wave guide.
If we look at the response curve of the Dynaudio flagship tweeter than people subjectivly like...the high end is dropping early...more like the DA32TX than the DA25TX.
Yes I remember we talked about all of that in a cheap price tweeter thread and iirccScottG advised me the 32TX because I was asking for a 6But... But not easy to source since CV19 (a very bad ref this last)...at least in my part of the world
 
#145
I had Eton 4, 5 and 8 inch back in the day (decades ago) I really liked them; they need better motors though; same thing with Accuton; like them also but they need better motors too. I paired the Eton 5 inch with a Philips ribbon; very good match; hard to beat accuracy and detail...UNTIL; I paired an Accuton 5 inch with the Raven R2 ribbon...WOW...miss all of my old drivers and projects; it's a shame I don't still have them!
 
#147
Ranked by choice

Small format - 1)Community HF100 2)TAD 2001, 3) Celestion CDX1-1730

Mid Format - 1) JBL 2450SL (aquaplus) 2) TAD 4002 3) Radian 835 be 4) Altec 288 16g

Large Format - 1) JBL 2450J with 2450SL aquaplas diaphragm 2) Community M-200 3)TAD 4001 4) JBL CMCD 2250 5) Celestion AXI2050

Midbass Horn Driver - 1)RCF L10P510 2) B&C 8PE21 3)Fane Studio 10 4) EVM15L

Deep Bass 1) JBL 2242H
 
#149
Yes that's them. VHF100. The best way to explain is they have no sound. Less than any other HF driver I haveheard. Closest would be the RTR electrostatic panels but much higher sensitivity, output and dynamics. The horn used is very important. I use then no lower than 2.5K so they are tweeters. I have used them in the big 300 HZ Community radial horn but they shut off below 1.8K. The diaphragm alignment is critical for best response.
 
#152
Most of my amps are 100 to well over 300 Watts. For the T90A; 25 Watts is all I need; no attentuator. All amps drive individual driver pairs only; all with level or gain controls. Some drivers have passive X/Os; some have active.
 
#153
oldspkrguy said:
Transducer Lab, N26CR2-G - Meniscus Audio

And these might be a very good choice to bridge between the TexTrem 5 inch and Fostex ST if needed. I'm hoping the TexTreme will get me above 4000 without any nasties; if not, I may need something between 3000 and 10,000 just as Diyiggy suggested...
Click to expand...


btw what cheap tweeter would you choose for a 8k to 9k cut-off ?

Due to the impossible center to center distance there will be a lot of nulls in the power response on axis but I assume you're for a 6But here as well ?

I'm wondering if a 6But at those frequencies arms less than a LR12 or more in the 3000 hz area... but how to deal with the 3 db bump iirc at the cut-off frequency please ?... We go back in the subject the good drivers (in their using range).
 
#155
Diyiggy; I would first try to re-shape my X/O on the ST before adding in again another tweeter. I use the T90A without attenuation and have a custom slope which I can modify. I need all the SPL I can get from 10 KHz to 15 KHz; above that it doesn't matter since I can no longer hear that high up. I do custom "Q" sometimes as a way of fine tuning; instead of textbook LR2, BE2, BW2, etc.; I can do something somewhere in between. That gets the lower end of the T90A to match up and blend well with the upper mid LP. (I have put a polarity reverse switch on the T90A as well because the F0 of the ST is usually well above 15 KHz where as the F0 of the upper mid might only be at 3500 to 7500 and could be 1st or 2nd order so phase and polarity are not going to be as predictable). This is the MAIN reason I have the new Crown XTi1002; I can do a very custom active HP, LP, BP on the upper mid with or without shelving, EQ, etc. I can do many pre-set filter settings, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and even higher order LR or BW and then pick and choose quickly (NOT my typical clip leads and part swaps ha ha).
 
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