Guys,
Somewhere in this (very long!) thread I recall reading a preference given to replacing the Craddock at R3 with Isabellenhütte PBH Series instead - can't find that reference now as can't remember what post I saw that on!
Is that a definite recommendation, or did I simply dream it?! Would that be a worthwhile consideration in your (more experienced) opinions?
Thx
Somewhere in this (very long!) thread I recall reading a preference given to replacing the Craddock at R3 with Isabellenhütte PBH Series instead - can't find that reference now as can't remember what post I saw that on!
Is that a definite recommendation, or did I simply dream it?! Would that be a worthwhile consideration in your (more experienced) opinions?
Thx
No You did not dream..
I hope it can be permitted, I had just stolen this zoom-in from the photo of Ripster's post (#4737 just after Your message..), a zoom-in into his installation > >
now that is an IsabellenHuette that you can observe there.. Part of the latest GB BOM..
In fact, I think some more people might assemble / swap in the part properly in these days, so hopefully more opinions coming.
Ciao, George
I hope it can be permitted, I had just stolen this zoom-in from the photo of Ripster's post (#4737 just after Your message..), a zoom-in into his installation > >
now that is an IsabellenHuette that you can observe there.. Part of the latest GB BOM..
In fact, I think some more people might assemble / swap in the part properly in these days, so hopefully more opinions coming.
Ciao, George
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So answer is YES 😉
Obviously they're supposed to be soldered and mounted flush to the PCB, mine are 'flying' on fastons to allow rapid swapping...
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Hi Dario,
Duly noted! I'll probably plan to obtain a couple in that case .....
Looking forward to starting my build in due course.
Thx
Duly noted! I'll probably plan to obtain a couple in that case .....
Looking forward to starting my build in due course.
Thx
Aha! Just noticed this option on BOM - The Mundorf M Resist Ultra, yes? They certainly seem to be very good.
Thanks for the heads up Dario.
Thanks for the heads up Dario.
So I finally connected everything and all seems OK relays click but if I connect speakers I hear buzzing on both channels... If I short input pins buzzing is gone I have toroids that have shield so I probably connected something wrong? any quick advice? thx
You have to connect dac.. Leaving input open, =buzzing..
Edit: I mean dac or preamp.. The input, when left open, is having a 100kohm impedance - far too high, picks up all things.
Though.. Did You measure the voltage on output terminals, DC, 200mV resolution, with input shortened?
Just a check, if it is OK
Edit: I mean dac or preamp.. The input, when left open, is having a 100kohm impedance - far too high, picks up all things.
Though.. Did You measure the voltage on output terminals, DC, 200mV resolution, with input shortened?
Just a check, if it is OK
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On output shorted input on left -5 and right +5
and another strange effect I had led touching chassis and the buzz was gone 😀
and another strange effect I had led touching chassis and the buzz was gone 😀
-5 and +5... mV, I hope!! ��
And that's ok. LED touching ground - non bueno..
Have fun! G
And that's ok. LED touching ground - non bueno..
Have fun! G
Thank you Joseph I connected everything to amplifier and now it is playing nicely without any buzzing 🙂
