Hi,
I don't think there's necessarily much wrong with your clones. It's just that your cabinet is probably only 13 liters and the 8542-10 doesn't go as deep as the 8542-00 and would prefer a larger cabinet.
However, you can try to shorten your vents to 10 cm and see if that helps.
Hi Dissi,
thanks for your response. That Was also something I had in mind. But have you listened to that Video in the beginning? Is it really possible these 7 inch woofers produce less bass then the smaller ALR woofers?
First time I heard the -10 does Not go as deep as the - 00. Are you sure?
I also thought about building a larger cabinet but then the Crossover will be invalid, no? I have seen on Troels 101's site that he also had a 1m floorstander cabinet design. In case I order his crossover, can I use it for the 101 and the floorstander, or do I need to alter it then?
What does shortening the vents do exactly, can you explain?
Thanks for the schematics, pretty nice program there!
By the datasheet from impedance graph 18W8542-10 has got an Fs=53 Hz, and who knows whether it has drifted to a higher value by now so it does not come as a surprise if it won't play bass as desired. Do your own impedance measurement to know for sure.
So I read some people saying now that I cannot expect deep bass from this driver. In a way I was aware of that, though this is still not what I was hoping for. And I am still not sure if there might be something wrong with the crossover too. Someone who also built a S100 clone or more a Troels 101 listened to the Youtube video I posted earlier and said there is definitely something off with the bass. So now I am not sure really what to do. Might be able to find a ProAc dealer in Vienna and have a listening session - the SM100s won't be too different to these I guess.
Any other suggestions or ideas?
I like the bass of your sheap bookshelfs more.
"Any other suggestions or ideas?"
Yes, buld 'sub statives' and run it all like a 3-way active with time alignment and a possibility of standing waves cut.
"Any other suggestions or ideas?"
Yes, buld 'sub statives' and run it all like a 3-way active with time alignment and a possibility of standing waves cut.
In order to analyze the problem, you should first try to present all the details needed, photos of everything, measurements...
Of course not! 😀
But now I have and it's not just the bass. Voices sound very thin, like mickey mouse. As if the crossover (especially the woofer coil) wouldn't work at all.
Of course not! 😀
But now I have and it's not just the bass. Voices sound very thin, like mickey mouse. As if the crossover (especially the woofer coil) wouldn't work at all.
Thank you! So you agree that this is not normal and can never be the sound these woofers are capable of. That releaves me a lot. I was starting to think that this is just the way it is and I might have to live with it. Not Sure if my Crossover makes sense but did you See my last drawing?
Can you connect just the woofer directly (tweeter disconnected), or with only the 1.7 mH coil on the + signal, to take off some of the HF energy?
This will give you an idea about the woofer performance. This is only for checking and NOT a substitute for a proper crossover.
This will give you an idea about the woofer performance. This is only for checking and NOT a substitute for a proper crossover.
I don't know if it is the case here, but there are two sort of problems with crossover and inexperienced builders:
- crossover wired incorrectly
- components soldered incorrectly (so even if the crossover is correct, it doesn't work as expected)
Ralf
- crossover wired incorrectly
- components soldered incorrectly (so even if the crossover is correct, it doesn't work as expected)
Ralf
Smarty! That sounds like a plan. I will try that definitely before I spend another 220 Euros on Troels Studio 101 xover. Just to see how to woofer performs. Thanks!
This may very much be the case, as I have never done that before. Probably I got something wired up wrongly. Can you specify what can go wrong with soldering? I am not sure but don't think this is here the case as both speakers sound the same, so I would have made the same mistake on both xovers.
Also you can desolder all components and slowly hard-wire following the schematics.
WAGO is your friend:
CLASSIC Splicing Connector (222-413) | WAGO
WAGO is your friend:
CLASSIC Splicing Connector (222-413) | WAGO
Troels 101 have the port in the rear. May affect the filter some.
101 http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Studio101_files/studio101-intro.jpg
101 http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Studio101_files/studio101-intro.jpg
The problem with soldering is a bad joint, something that appears to be soldered but it doesn't conduct. The only way to know is to measure the resistance between the two parts (it must read zero Ohm).
Ralf
Ralf
Yes I know. So would you suggest du build a new cabinet in case I use the 101 crossover?
Not at all.
Edit: what would affect the filter is a baffle with different size, and/or with drivers placed differently on the baffle.
Ralf
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Do you really like this speaker, for some specific reason? Or would you mind an alternative?
There are many other technically way better speakers out there in this price range.
There are many other technically way better speakers out there in this price range.
Yes I like this speaker, had the Studio 1 MK2 before. I do have the drivers here now and kind of want to use them as selling and buying others will cost more money.
IF I do that - I was thinking of either Troels Studio 101 MK2 or one of his 3 way classics. I am looking for a great allround speaker which I can also push a little from time to time with good imaging and flat frequency response.
What else would you suggest? As I am not living in a house and probably won't in the near future, standmounts are preferred.
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@Peterpaan89
Fair enough 🙂
Well... I just red about your speakers... and only found some tricky stuff about them, because of the design - which cant really be fixed by a different filter - imo.
ProAc Studio 100 loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com
They mention that a small amplfier with poor control, can kinda compensate for the less smooth FR. But then I thought you might consider something else.
My suggestion would be something like these:
DXT-MON 182 | Monitor | Referenz-Lautsprecher
I use the same tweeter in my active 3 way speakers, with the same cut on the baffle. They play wonderfully open and clear. I think it's because the design creates this smooth even power response - rather than the typical dip you see, when a big midrange is crossed poorly to a small non waveguided tweeter.
Fair enough 🙂
Well... I just red about your speakers... and only found some tricky stuff about them, because of the design - which cant really be fixed by a different filter - imo.
ProAc Studio 100 loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com
They mention that a small amplfier with poor control, can kinda compensate for the less smooth FR. But then I thought you might consider something else.
My suggestion would be something like these:
DXT-MON 182 | Monitor | Referenz-Lautsprecher
I use the same tweeter in my active 3 way speakers, with the same cut on the baffle. They play wonderfully open and clear. I think it's because the design creates this smooth even power response - rather than the typical dip you see, when a big midrange is crossed poorly to a small non waveguided tweeter.