What is the best full-range driver?

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As X and I mentioned, the 10F is not really suited to TL.

The 15W/8434G00 has even lower Qts, so no.
The 18W/8434G00 has Qts of 0.43, which might work, but would be much bigger, closer in size to X's RS225+10F TL... and remember, his design is folded.

Best bet for an intro to TL is the TABAQ, as the enclosure is so easy to build, and a 3 or 4" driver with Qts close to 0.50.

Fait chaud au Québec?
I hear you've had some hot weather this summer, and cool in between... typical weather roller-coaster!
 
Fait chaud au Québec?

Yes i drink a lot of glasses filled with ice only.... but it's more humid than hot i think :D

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I'm not sure Qts only determines what enclosure is exclusive to a driver...only tendencies as i understand it. Otherwise the only suitable enclosure for rs225 would be bass reflex. :scratch:

i have a couple small drivers on the side doing nothing, maybe i could just build a TL with repalceable baffles and see what the 10f can do, out of curiosity, compared to the others.
 
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before you build, sim.

Yes, there are other factors than simply Qts, but as a rule of thumb, it's pretty usual to find drivers around 0.50 that do well, with the right knee at the curve of tuning.

If it's too low or too high, we often see a spike that would make a driver a one-note booming cannon in a TL.

So, take the guessing out, and sim.
Quite easy these days.
 
I don't know much but I recently had the privilege to buy a pair of "Philips AD1255/M7". Both of them were in old large coffin size cabinets that needed work. (Already fixed),

I think they are wonderful, I tried driving them off my single-ended 5 watts per channel tube amplifier, it was a total failure.

Now they are been driven by "Pioneer SA-500A", a small solid-state amplifier from 1970. They sound awesome, i love the laid-back sound i get when I listen to them, Great for jazz, vocals, etc.

Anyone here familiar with "Philis AD1255/M7"....?

I also bought another pair of "Philips AD80800/M8" out of curiosity in their original boxes. They didn't sound nearly good as the AD1255 so I sold them at half the price to another user.
 
I don't know much but I recently had the privilege to buy a pair of "Philips AD1255/M7". Both of them were in old large coffin size cabinets that needed work. (Already fixed),

I think they are wonderful, I tried driving them off my single-ended 5 watts per channel tube amplifier, it was a total failure.

Now they are been driven by "Pioneer SA-500A", a small solid-state amplifier from 1970. They sound awesome, i love the laid-back sound i get when I listen to them, Great for jazz, vocals, etc.

Anyone here familiar with "Philis AD1255/M7"....?

I also bought another pair of "Philips AD80800/M8" out of curiosity in their original boxes. They didn't sound nearly good as the AD1255 so I sold them at half the price to another user.

A very long time ago I had AD5200, this is the same thing.SE GM70 amplifier. I did not listen to their for a long time in OB, but there was little bass. Therefore, the sound was unsaturated.
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Then I bought Klangfilm KL405 + BMS4524.This is much higher level and I sold AD5200.
 
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If you get a chance, try the 10F and RS225 combo in a TL. It is near perfection. One of the best speakers I have heard anywhere and at any price. The TL opens up the RS225 and makes it a different experience altogether. Less distortion and more realistic dynamics in the mid bass. Deep deep bass extension that is dry and tight. Wonderful.

Use at least a 50w and preferably, a 100w amp for best results.

I was impressed with your loudspeaker and thought, a little fantasy, if instead of 10F and RS225 use one FA22RCZ. RS225 and FA22RCZ have similar T/S. Is it possible, it is better or worse?
 
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I was impressed with your loudspeaker and thought, a little fantasy, if instead of 10F and RS225 use one FA22RCZ. RS225 and FA22RCZ have similar T/S. Is it possible, it is better or worse?

I don't think that will work, especially because the FA22 has a very ragged topend, and the 10F top end is much smoother (altough also raising). You can't really flatten the topend of an FA22 or it would need way to much eq than is good for a speaker's sound.
 
A very long time ago I had AD5200, this is the same thing.SE GM70 amplifier. I did not listen to their for a long time in OB, but there was little bass. Therefore, the sound was unsaturated.
DIY Audio Projects Photo Gallery: Click image to close this window
Then I bought Klangfilm KL405 + BMS4524.This is much higher level and I sold AD5200.

Thank you for your reply. I looked up on google about AD5200 and found a nice piece of article written in another language (Which I cannot understand ). I think it says AD1255/M7 = AD5200M, it is the same thing. I also learned that AD5200M is also called a high fidelity speaker back in their day.

It is great to know about them. I love how they sound, very mellow and laid back... great for old recordings, jazz, and classical music. I am yet to add padding to the enclosures but even without it, it sounds good.
 

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Certainly, given that the cone size is part of the efficiency equation so larger drivers tend to have more efficiency.

Choose your compromises. I have not found sensitiivity to be directly related to audio quality.

Unless you bi-amp keep in mind the woofers should be 3-6 dB more sensitive than the FR.

dave

Thanks Dave.I have several possibilities, one of which I have been pondering for 21 years:) As yet that sphere thread the diyAudio is not progressing.
Diameter 65cm,weight 32 kg.
 

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Thank you for your reply. I looked up on google about AD5200 and found a nice piece of article written in another language (Which I cannot understand ). I think it says AD1255/M7 = AD5200M, it is the same thing. I also learned that AD5200M is also called a high fidelity speaker back in their day.

It is great to know about them. I love how they sound, very mellow and laid back... great for old recordings, jazz, and classical music. I am yet to add padding to the enclosures but even without it, it sounds good.

This is in Dutch. There is a datasheet in English and it says exactly AD1255 / M7 = AD5200. I think the bass depends on the resonance of the room, my room has it about 80hz. And the box is always more predictable. If you find your sound, congratulations and enjoy.

http://www.verheijde.net/library/Philips_1969-01_%20CM3_Radio-Audio-Television_939916106901.pdf
 
Ok ...but someone has to see that the simulators works ok no? :D

Work it out for yourself then; basic T/S max flat [0.707 Qtb] reflex alignment per this AES paper: Margolis-Small's HP 67/97 & 41C calculator program: AES E-Library » Personal Calculator Programs for Approximate Vented-Box and Closed-Box Loudspeaker System Design

net volume [Vb] [L] = 20*Vas*Qts'^3.3

box tuning [Fb] [Hz] = 0.42*Fs*Qts'^-0.96

Qts' = Qts + any added series resistance [Rs]: HiFi Loudspeaker Design

As you can see, Qts' dominates until it's really low and/or Vas gets relatively large for a given efficiency with ~ 0.403 Qts': Vb = Vas, Fb = Fs

Note:

T/S theory peters out at the driver's effective upper [Fhm], lower [Flc] mass corners, so any bandwidth response plot beyond these points are strictly due to [inputted] inductance [mH] and/or mass roll off, with on-line freeware generally just flatlining it:

Fhm = 2*Fs/Qts'

Flc = Fs*Qts'/2 [normally never used]

Qts' = 2*Fs/Fhm

GM
 
I bet if we took everyones calibrated microphones away from them and just made them listen, that full range drivers done right would fair a lot better. I actually lean the other way. Listening to a speaker with a crossover in it sounds odd to me after going full range for so long. But again, its about the setup. And there is some real magic with a good full range and some gritty saxophone music..
 
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