Thanks for all your support and help.
I must tell you that I have a big constraint, and this is that I must place the loudspeakers near the wall. This is why I have selected the EKTA Grande because the bass reflex is in the front of the box. See the attached photo of the current layout.
Regarding all of your proposals is too much for me, I have to study all of them.
If you could teach me about ...
Which are the differences between a sealed box, a box with a bass reflex in the front and a one with the bass reflex in the rear panel?
For more info I have tried Jon Garbarek – Rites CD as Troels used to do and my Dynaudio performed very well.
Jenzen-NEXT
I must tell you that I have a big constraint, and this is that I must place the loudspeakers near the wall. This is why I have selected the EKTA Grande because the bass reflex is in the front of the box. See the attached photo of the current layout.
Regarding all of your proposals is too much for me, I have to study all of them.
If you could teach me about ...
Which are the differences between a sealed box, a box with a bass reflex in the front and a one with the bass reflex in the rear panel?
For more info I have tried Jon Garbarek – Rites CD as Troels used to do and my Dynaudio performed very well.
Jenzen-NEXT
You're asking for trouble if you use the Ekta Grande right up against the wall. Troels has designed that speaker with a declining response toward higher frequencies and it's almost certain to be bass heavy without at least some space around it.
Technically speaking there is no such thing as a 'bass reflex in the front' or a 'bass reflex in the back'. What you are looking at is the vent or port. In most cases it's done for convenience & layout, although it's sometimes for reasons of adjusting boundary interactions or reducing the audibility of unwanted noise in / through the vent. A sealed box, as the name implies, has no venting; it will usually have less output at lower frequencies, but it may (may) remain better controlled and have a superior transient response.
Technically speaking there is no such thing as a 'bass reflex in the front' or a 'bass reflex in the back'. What you are looking at is the vent or port. In most cases it's done for convenience & layout, although it's sometimes for reasons of adjusting boundary interactions or reducing the audibility of unwanted noise in / through the vent. A sealed box, as the name implies, has no venting; it will usually have less output at lower frequencies, but it may (may) remain better controlled and have a superior transient response.
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If still interested in the 1.8s, I had a pair of 1.3 mk2 contours. I believe with similar drivers and the value of the crossover components appear close if not exact. A word about the crossover. The wire used is large, but my crossover had some corrosion (green) at the junction with the circuit board. I replaced the wire, but didn't mod the crossover. I have modded other crossovers, changing with same value capacitor and resistors. It can be revealling, or disappointing, YMMV.
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JUM68,
You should try to advance few cm your speaker for its front bafle to be 1 or 2 cm in front of the center furniture... perhaps it's going better with narrow reflexion and imaging.
You should try to advance few cm your speaker for its front bafle to be 1 or 2 cm in front of the center furniture... perhaps it's going better with narrow reflexion and imaging.
I start to lose interest when it's decided that new speakers are needed. I'd prefer to look at what we can do to improve the existing ones.
Dynaudio Contour 1.3 Mk.II loudspeaker | Stereophile.com
Room acoustics matter, for one thing. Carpets and heavy curtains behind the listening position always works well.
We could doubtless do a lot with crossovers:
Swapping out the tweeters is a possibility, either a ribbon or these 110mm types:
E0011-06 T25CF002
I remember simming the dynaudio circuit. I decided a regular third order tweeter worked better than the time delay circuit. It was easy enough to do the conversion. Just had to flip tweeter polarity.
Does look as if the Esotar tweeter is overly bright to me. And has some issues around 5kHz. Whole thing is what I would call a Jazz speaker, being low order. Possibly not so good with classical.
Dynaudio Contour 1.3 Mk.II loudspeaker | Stereophile.com
Room acoustics matter, for one thing. Carpets and heavy curtains behind the listening position always works well.
We could doubtless do a lot with crossovers:
Swapping out the tweeters is a possibility, either a ribbon or these 110mm types:
E0011-06 T25CF002
I remember simming the dynaudio circuit. I decided a regular third order tweeter worked better than the time delay circuit. It was easy enough to do the conversion. Just had to flip tweeter polarity.
Does look as if the Esotar tweeter is overly bright to me. And has some issues around 5kHz. Whole thing is what I would call a Jazz speaker, being low order. Possibly not so good with classical.
Thanks a lot to everyone for your answers and support.
My conclusion from what I have read is that; open your Dynaudio 1.8 and we will see what to do.
My conclusion from what I have read is that; open your Dynaudio 1.8 and we will see what to do.
The truth is that I’m enjoining them quite a lot. Following diyggy suggestion I have move them forward as the picture shows and I think that the sound has improved. It’s difficult for me to put into words what I have perceived but I will say that the sound is much clearer. This could be the imaging, scene … may be I do not know the technical term.
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I’m very sorry to hear you saying that. Refurbish my current loudspeaker will take long time and I’m not able to do that nowadays.
This is something that I’m feeling with this loudspeakers, the classical do not sound as well as jazz, vocal specially women ones and piano solos as Glend Gould ones. Which are in your opinion the pure features of a good all round speaker?
Clearly the Dynaudio's aren't bad speakers. But the room makes a difference as does the bass boost also known as bafflestep:
If I haven't lost my touch, Koifarm has gone light on bafflestep here.
Still a horrible over-lively room in my opinion. Echoey, you follow? Probably hard to hear a conversation. Lively rooms are bad for HiFi. Big speakers in small rooms are boomy in the bass. My own preference is light bafflestep next to the wall. But a bit of damping too.
If I haven't lost my touch, Koifarm has gone light on bafflestep here.
Still a horrible over-lively room in my opinion. Echoey, you follow? Probably hard to hear a conversation. Lively rooms are bad for HiFi. Big speakers in small rooms are boomy in the bass. My own preference is light bafflestep next to the wall. But a bit of damping too.
+1,
spending time on the room IS always paying.
The speakers are good, they are 20 years, just change the 4 caps : values are not huge, take 4 Jantzen Cross Cap, it will be certainly an improvment big enough and welcome if the caps were lytics - on the need to unscrew and putt the hands into to know😀- and it will end to the rest of your life. Then keep the money planned for a speaker for a better source and amp, no needs big monney. But the listening room DOES matter and needs your attention first. You can experiment with listening position for instance by trying moving the chair by 25 cm increment; toe in, toe off the speakers, try to improve center phantom image with that... just ask time...
If after all of that it's too much boomy for instance - about the needs of a good source- something can be done to reduce the amount of bass with experienced fellows here like S7.
spending time on the room IS always paying.
The speakers are good, they are 20 years, just change the 4 caps : values are not huge, take 4 Jantzen Cross Cap, it will be certainly an improvment big enough and welcome if the caps were lytics - on the need to unscrew and putt the hands into to know😀- and it will end to the rest of your life. Then keep the money planned for a speaker for a better source and amp, no needs big monney. But the listening room DOES matter and needs your attention first. You can experiment with listening position for instance by trying moving the chair by 25 cm increment; toe in, toe off the speakers, try to improve center phantom image with that... just ask time...
If after all of that it's too much boomy for instance - about the needs of a good source- something can be done to reduce the amount of bass with experienced fellows here like S7.
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Esotar tweeters wont help much.
Hi. I did what you guys are not recommending and updated esotac tweeter to esotar 2 tweeters and improvement is there. Vocals sound with better clarity straight off the box, however, something is missing anyway, I am not very happy with how neutral vocals are. For example, opera vocals lack impact and realism. Billy Ellish and Leonard Cohen vocals lack weight and emotion. My brother says that his cheap Focal chlora 816 sounds better at heights.
My dynns are powered by music fidelity m6 power amp which should be enough juice.
So it comes down to crossover. Is there anything I can do to make those Brother,s cheap Focals loose this battle 🙂?
Maybe esotar crossovers from car edition can help or something else. Please help.
Hi. I did what you guys are not recommending and updated esotac tweeter to esotar 2 tweeters and improvement is there. Vocals sound with better clarity straight off the box, however, something is missing anyway, I am not very happy with how neutral vocals are. For example, opera vocals lack impact and realism. Billy Ellish and Leonard Cohen vocals lack weight and emotion. My brother says that his cheap Focal chlora 816 sounds better at heights.
My dynns are powered by music fidelity m6 power amp which should be enough juice.
So it comes down to crossover. Is there anything I can do to make those Brother,s cheap Focals loose this battle 🙂?
Maybe esotar crossovers from car edition can help or something else. Please help.
You just refurbish the tweeter if it's a ferro fluided one: cheap, needed after 20 years, will give back to amost brand new if you know the FF grade.
Hi, I'm in the process of refurbishing my Contour 1.8m2. Visually they look very good and technically I want to renew them as much as possible. So far, I have checked the values of the elements in the crossover - they all maintain their parameters, including the electrolytic capacitor. The woofers hold well, except for the foam on the back of the speaker that fell apart when I touched it. I replaced it with a white filter mat as shown in the photo (used in vacuum cleaners). I do not know whether to replace the upper suspensions, which still look quite good? maybe someone will advise (I glued a small hole in the suspension from the bottom with a very flexible glue). In the D28 / 2 tweeters I want to replace the ferrofliud and I have a question, Has anyone ever done it in Dynaudio tweeters? and can he recommend me a specific FF class and where to buy it? I wrote to Dynaudio a question about the production date of my C1.8mk2 (I gave SN) and after what time the upper suspensions in woofers need replacing and FF in tweeters, but unfortunately I did not get an answer. I am asking for tips. Thank you in advance and best regards
Fabian
Hi, I'm in the process of refurbishing my Contour 1.8m2. Visually they look very good and technically I want to renew them as much as possible. So far, I have checked the values of the elements in the crossover - they all maintain their parameters, including the electrolytic capacitor. The woofers hold well, except for the foam on the back of the speaker that fell apart when I touched it. I replaced it with a white filter mat as shown in the photo (used in vacuum cleaners). I do not know whether to replace the upper suspensions, which still look quite good? maybe someone will advise (I glued a small hole in the suspension from the bottom with a very flexible glue). In the D28 / 2 tweeters I want to replace the ferrofliud and I have a question, Has anyone ever done it in Dynaudio tweeters? and can he recommend me a specific FF class and where to buy it? I wrote to Dynaudio a question about the production date of my C1.8mk2 (I gave SN) and after what time the upper suspensions in woofers need replacing and FF in tweeters, but unfortunately I did not get an answer. I am asking for tips. Thank you in advance and best regards
Fabian
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Can anyone help ? what grade should FF have for Dynaudio D28 / 2 and where can I buy it?
I don't know exactly if the tweeters are interchangeable (similar freq response, sensitivity), but most likely not and you would have to make crossover changes to accept Esotars. Dynaudio pulled out from DIY long time ago and I don't have their drivers. Seems like you lack lower treble or the Esotars need additional padding to lower their level. Without measurements before/after it's hard to judge. Best that you find someone who has measuring equipment and can input the data into CAD like Vituix, XSim. Sometimes 0.5 dB here and there can make difference, especially in 1-5kHz range, which is mostly affected by crossover. Try to get some data on the tweeters you're using and start from there.
In order to diagnose a problem, first you'd want to make FR and Impedance evaluation of a raw driver in a cabinet. Then if the issue of a crooked ferrofluid was to be confirmed, you would want to act further, otherwise not.
I enclose the Frequensy Response measurement of the entire loudspeaker in Holmimpulse (from 1kHz upwards, it may be considered realistic). I did not measure the impedance because this function does not exist in Holmimpuls. Can you infer anything about FF from this measurement?
femkj, can you do FRD measurements separately for midwoof and tweeter, then the sum on top. Looks like top end is lacking, with hole around 8k (possible diffraction issues?), unless your mic rolls off above 10k. Other than 5k peak which will add extra bite to the vocals doesn't look bad. Ah, I used to have Focal TC90TDX x-over at 3k, before the foam surround desintegrated and yeah they were quite detailed, flat measuring tweeters.
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Does somebody know how to remove the drivers? I just buyed a set second hand and what to check the filter. But when I remove the screws the drivers are solid to the box. I don't whant to put some screwdriver between the wood and de iron(?) ring of the speaker(s), the wood get a dent easy.
But is absoluut no movement in de speakerdriver.
Any tips?