That's a Sinaudyo Detour mkIII !
Did he putt Supremes in // as well ??? I can believe it ! Ah one Solen // to a resistor was keeped in serie maybe with the supremes for the tweeter ! ... bummer 😀
Did he putt Supremes in // as well ??? I can believe it ! Ah one Solen // to a resistor was keeped in serie maybe with the supremes for the tweeter ! ... bummer 😀
Please do not misunderstand my words, they are part of the initial debate but I do not agree with your statement. For me is one of the most important issues is if the startup of the project is correct or not. Imagine that the process of analyzing options leads us to build up an active loudspeaker, which is a complete rebuilt. Koifarm, proposal in post #14 is very tempting if he let me copy and paste …
“As I wrote before the best upgrade for dynaudio speakers is to remove the filter and buy a good active filter and supply high/mid/low each with they own amp.”
And more important, if a newbie like me starts disassembling the speakers, I calculate that all this project will take me at least 3/4 months which indicates that my wife won’t be able to play music and believe me, this is a problem.
Then I think that purchasing these cheap loudspeakers let me work confidently, quietly and let me introduce in this new world avoiding some risks. Many of you said that it’s hard to improve the design that Dynaudio made in this speakers and make more sense to make a refurbishment/maybe some component substitution which I think can be carried without risks in the scond unit if I’m able to get a reasonable price.
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Yes I think this is an easy task, I will unscrew the tweeter and the Woofer, using the tools recommended by diyiggy 😛And I asked you to identify the drivers.
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I do not know where they are, if this means disassembly the full box I prefer to wait.
Take in mind that what you think is easy, for me is like climbing the Everest … … Be confident of my commitment, if I decide to stop the project I will tell you. You’re dealing with me very well then this is what I have to return to you.😉
JUM68,
I understand ( now ) that you might prefer to buy a second set of Contour 1.8's to play with ( modify ) assuming you can get a good price on them.
No problem.
🙂
I understand ( now ) that you might prefer to buy a second set of Contour 1.8's to play with ( modify ) assuming you can get a good price on them.
No problem.
🙂
🙂 I will try 🙂
I will keep you informed. Anyway I will unscrew my current tweeter and woofer. I will pray to do not damage anything.
I will keep you informed. Anyway I will unscrew my current tweeter and woofer. I will pray to do not damage anything.
The rule is : slowly. Use felt to protect the veener, the cones from screw drivers, sometimes drivers are tacked or glued with some weak rubber glues for damping purpose.
You may be able with care to get off the negine (filter pcb), some are soldered with binding posts or short wires to it and wires towards the drivers, some have easy plugs... If it entered, it certainly can be extracted without a comando 🙂. Sometimes the bass coil are not on the main pcb, etc. (so near in the next bambou box)
If you are not confortable enough with that, maybe your manual skills not permitt you deeper diy... a good test. Many things are hard not because it's hard to do but because we think it's hard to do ! It's a hobby, if you don't get pleasure at surgeon your hifi devices is another good test 😀
You may be able with care to get off the negine (filter pcb), some are soldered with binding posts or short wires to it and wires towards the drivers, some have easy plugs... If it entered, it certainly can be extracted without a comando 🙂. Sometimes the bass coil are not on the main pcb, etc. (so near in the next bambou box)
If you are not confortable enough with that, maybe your manual skills not permitt you deeper diy... a good test. Many things are hard not because it's hard to do but because we think it's hard to do ! It's a hobby, if you don't get pleasure at surgeon your hifi devices is another good test 😀
asking myself what peak & amplitude is notched with the bass drivers notch filter? Does it not tame some dynamic behavior as a bad consequence ?
What is the device in the right corner of the schematic please ? Fuse ? polyswitch ? else ? Strange impedance correction... i assume it's for the midle driver resonance padding at driver Fs ?
hum 10 uf + 6.8 uf on the tweeter with Jantzen Superior is not cheap... for an upgrade !
Anyway it is for the 2 , we don't know the Mk I owner shematic , nore the exact reference rivers he has vs the MK II... sure it is not a more difficult Kef 107 ref or a Kef 104 ref filters or a big Spendor...
What is the device in the right corner of the schematic please ? Fuse ? polyswitch ? else ? Strange impedance correction... i assume it's for the midle driver resonance padding at driver Fs ?
hum 10 uf + 6.8 uf on the tweeter with Jantzen Superior is not cheap... for an upgrade !
Anyway it is for the 2 , we don't know the Mk I owner shematic , nore the exact reference rivers he has vs the MK II... sure it is not a more difficult Kef 107 ref or a Kef 104 ref filters or a big Spendor...
And hold together screw and screwdriver bit with your index finger and thumb to help against slipping away.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is the twitter of one of them.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
These are the wofers.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
... and this is the twitter of the ones I will purchase if finally the price reaches a convnient amount of €.
Different or identical?
Regards.
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JUM68,
Your pictures don't appear ( I'm sure you see them but that's just a latent effect caused by your Browser caching data ).
Load them first into a folder on your computer's desktop ( if they aren't there already ) and then upload them into your next post ( using the post editors "Manage Attachments" window ).
🙂
Your pictures don't appear ( I'm sure you see them but that's just a latent effect caused by your Browser caching data ).
Load them first into a folder on your computer's desktop ( if they aren't there already ) and then upload them into your next post ( using the post editors "Manage Attachments" window ).
🙂
Indeed. I think you've got to be logged into Google Whatsit to see anything. Pure spyware, IMO. 😀
Good to shrink them to 640x480 jpeg or png too. Then use the paperclip.
But really, model numbers would do.
Good to shrink them to 640x480 jpeg or png too. Then use the paperclip.
But really, model numbers would do.
In the Netherlands a lot of people liked the diy double 17.
You can also use the car units like md130 and 2 mw160.
Just need to change the filter for two series mw160 woofers.
replace coil 0,39 for 0,82mh, resistor 3,9 for 8,2ohm and capacitor 22uf for 8,2uf and plce the woofers in serie.
They sound better then the contour.
You can also use the car units like md130 and 2 mw160.
Just need to change the filter for two series mw160 woofers.
replace coil 0,39 for 0,82mh, resistor 3,9 for 8,2ohm and capacitor 22uf for 8,2uf and plce the woofers in serie.
They sound better then the contour.
Attachments
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This the Contour 1.8 Mark II, but can't be wildly different from the Mark I.
I hope JUM68 won't mind if I post his PM here:
I'll post this and we can take it from there.
I hope JUM68 won't mind if I post his PM here:
JUM68 said:
I'll post this and we can take it from there.
OK.
I think I am up to speed on this project now. 🙂
Three way is simply a better way to do things.
Compare these two projects using the same metal woofer:
SEAS TJL3W
TJL-2W
Easy enough to get some simming software working.
Software | Visaton
Just import a suitable looking project into the projekte folder and fiddle around with it:
2 Wege – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
But you might get some doable ideas about trying a ribbon tweeter with your Dynaudio speakers. The Fountek JP3 is 110mm diameter. Ought to work well enough in your Dynaaudio boxes:
DIY-Loudspeakers
Go to Acapella LWJ for the lowdown. Ribbons work really well with twin woofers, IMO. And Mr. Troels Gravesen reckons its the best speaker he's ever built.
I think I am up to speed on this project now. 🙂
Three way is simply a better way to do things.
Compare these two projects using the same metal woofer:
SEAS TJL3W
TJL-2W
Easy enough to get some simming software working.
Software | Visaton
Just import a suitable looking project into the projekte folder and fiddle around with it:
2 Wege – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
But you might get some doable ideas about trying a ribbon tweeter with your Dynaudio speakers. The Fountek JP3 is 110mm diameter. Ought to work well enough in your Dynaaudio boxes:
DIY-Loudspeakers
Go to Acapella LWJ for the lowdown. Ribbons work really well with twin woofers, IMO. And Mr. Troels Gravesen reckons its the best speaker he's ever built.
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Hi System7, that's odd to use the ceramic from Seas above 800 hz where it turns out to have a lot of non linear IM distorsion according to Linkwitz. However below 700 hz seems it's incredibly good !
Look at what say Zaph about the JP3 : seems not to have so much respect for this, it's certainly has resolution but not sure more musical than some domes...
What your thoughts ?
Edit : had you time to try the cool Seas 8" reedit from F-A ?
Look at what say Zaph about the JP3 : seems not to have so much respect for this, it's certainly has resolution but not sure more musical than some domes...
What your thoughts ?
Edit : had you time to try the cool Seas 8" reedit from F-A ?