After FH3 - Victor ...Next ?

I built a set of FH3 for my son last year , after that i built a set of Tabak W5-2143 for my wife's daughter ( really cool too )

as they work really great i was impressed ....
But my parents were also impressed and wanted as set of speakers

So i digged the forum for another speaker construction and decided to built a set of Victor (FE166 woden design )

Now the problem is my wife ( i know it's not a pb in fact 🙂 ) =

She says The FE166 Victor are nice and sound really good 😎

I'll go for a LB ( nearly 100% confident )
No matter WAF factor or money : What would you build ?


ps : at the moment my wife says " i love that " so no Waf issues for me 😀


201111092657333532.jpg
 
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I don't know what you mean with an LB, and that looks like a fairly small place. It also depends on what you want, what kind of music you like and what amp you want to use.

But for me, it would probally or a good quality waw setup (like i already have) or a bigger high efficient fullrange driver in a massive box (like the Fane 12-250TC in a 250L Ported tuned to 35Hz) with a SET amp of only a few watt (wich is still somewhere in the planning for me).
 
LB is full range speaker sorry

A have a 300B and a very strong 2*75 mosfet amp ( and a few class D ... )

Minidsp ddrc24 dirac also possible for room eq


In other words : with no ( or nearly ) limits on the cabinet what would you build (full range speakers )?
 
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I would build that waw that i mentioned and already did build. The waw (woofer assisted wideband) is in my case a Mark Audio 10.3M fullrange in a 11.5L sealed cabinet build following the BBC principle of a mass damped lossy thin wall cabinet (like the infamous LS3/5A) and a Scanspeak 26W/8534G00 (sub)woofer in a 77L sealed cabinet. I use a passive serial 1st order crossover at 250Hz with notch filters build in to flatten the sound. I amp it with a 32w push pull tube amp with EL34 tubes. I have no drawn plans for those (someone will do that soon), but something similar could be great. But that is an own custom design that took a lot of work and (i hope) design skills to get it right. Mine has a good response to about 32Hz. Picture is it in my actual setup. The wooden boxes next to the tube amp contain the filter network as the parts (especially the coils) are rather and heavy big to put them in the box.

I thought Dave (Planet10) has a design for a waw that also works great using Mark Audio Drivers that you can get from him. It's one of his favorite sets of all he builds he said... Info is found here: Alpair 12P, and helper? Design Question
 

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Too small space for OB.

Weren't you interested in X's MLTL design?
That's what I would build next.
I'm sure your wife would appreciate the great extension and clean sound you can get with them.

If time and space not a factor, then a tactrix set of horns could be fun. But not a straight forward build as the others.
 
If time and space not a factor, then a tactrix set of horns could be fun. But not a straight forward build as the others.

In fact , the K-402 is in my mind since a few years 😀
I think it's time to go

The bass cab in the picture provides nearly flat( with 2db after small eq ) curve from (16hz -3db )18hz to 700hz ( 86Db but 1500W 😀 / 3000W peak 12" special driver no more avaible )

i have in fact 2 or 3 options
1) K402 clone with compression radian / BMS etc
2) Seos 24 with compression radian / BMS etc
3) Seos 24-4 with 10F/8414G10/Mark audio Alpair-CHR
4) K402 clone with 10F/8414G10/Mark audio Alpair-CHR


i continue to scratch my head an once finished i'll buy some more wood 😀


I would build that waw that i mentioned and already did build. The waw (woofer assisted wideband) is in my case a Mark Audio 10.3M fullrange in a 11.5L sealed cabinet build following the BBC principle of a mass damped lossy thin wall cabinet (like the infamous LS3/5A) and a Scanspeak 26W/8534G00 (sub)woofer in a 77L sealed cabinet. I use a passive serial 1st order crossover at 250Hz with notch filters build in to flatten the sound. I amp it with a 32w push pull tube amp with EL34 tubes. I have no drawn plans for those (someone will do that soon), but something similar could be great. But that is an own custom design that took a lot of work and (i hope) design skills to get it right. Mine has a good response to about 32Hz. Picture is it in my actual setup. The wooden boxes next to the tube amp contain the filter network as the parts (especially the coils) are rather and heavy big to put them in the box.

I thought Dave (Planet10) has a design for a waw that also works great using Mark Audio Drivers that you can get from him. It's one of his favorite sets of all he builds he said... Info is found here: Alpair 12P, and helper? Design Question

My idea is not that far from yours 🙂
 
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The K402 was often crossovered low, but sounds thin that low, it works best above 800Hz and therefor i would only crossover it above 1k with a good compression driver. That won't fit that woofer i think.

Better is to have a system that can crossover lower at arround 250 to 500 Hz, so a waw system (horn or not) can fit it surely. But not that K403, that needs a woofer that is good to about 1500 a 2000Hz in my opinion.
 
It will be the option when we will move from my wife’s to mine ( a few years ...)

At the moment the idea is seos 24 -4 inch collar and a full range

Tang band w4 1879
Fostex fe108EZ
Mark Audio
Scan speak 10F/8414G10

I still wonder about quality of the rendering
 
Full range: Bigger than Victor in the same vein is Vulcan. Similar to Vulcan is Avebury for the Alpair 12 or the slightly smaller Brodgar for the Alpair 11ms. You give up efficiency for bass, more detail/DDR, flatter response.

The other route is WAW, some mentioned already. Pick a really good full range speaker but don’t worry too much about bass, that is what the helper woofers are for. It will be a midTweeter.

Lots of room to be creative. Or pick one of the growing number of proven designs if you aren’t that adventurous.

Passive XO is harder than active, it has to deal with the driver impedancer resonance. Given the size of the needed passive parts it can cost more than active.

Active can be as simple as a PLLXO (needs well choosen driver & boxes), simple but versatile active analog XOs like the 2 different projects from the diyAudio Store, to any of the growing number of digital/DSP XO. And it gives you an excuse to use that amp under the stairs, or buy or build one specifically for the job.

I really like the Alpair 7.3, and in my A7 WAW i am installing A7MeN. We have also done smaller ones with FF85wKeN (and FF85KeN) and one in progress that will have Alpair 5.2eN. Lots of others to chose from.

Woofers: There are a zillion midwoofers you can look at. All of those midbasses out there for standard cone+dome jobs. But you won’t be using them anywhere near where they are weakest. They need to do bass, but be extended enuff and voiced such that they have a nice transition to the midTweeter.

There are a growing number of examples. waxx’s (w Alpair 10.3), Alanhuth’s Halcyons (Alpair 10PeN), XRK has done a few, planet10 [my designs, chris’ builds] are A7.3/A12pw MTM, Tysens (1 with SDX7, v2 w 2xSilver Flute W14, the precursor to the big MTM with 2xEL166/FF85k, 2xPeerless 830870/FF85wk.

A12pw-MTM-comp.jpg


(lots more pictures if you want)

There are a growing number of others. Your actual budget, your room, your taste, your building skills (meticulus i’d say given all the pieces in Victor), your wife, your ancillary kit will all play into what is best suited.

dave