• The Vendor's Bazaar forum is for commercial offers and transactions. Only unmoderated members can post here.

    diyAudio provides this forum for the convenience of our members, but makes no warranty nor assumes any responsibility. We do not vet any members. Use of this facility is at your own risk. Customers can post any issues in those threads as long as it is done in a civil manner. All diyAudio rules about conduct apply and will be enforced.

Shanti Dual LPS 5V/3A , 5V/1.5A

I have no timeline. I have started the design and will bring it to the market .


Lots of new ideas on the power , this time discreet . Not only they show lower noise than LT304x but they are also incredibly low impedance .


PCIe slot will be provided (one extra)


We expect to need a beefy PSU , 2.5A for RPI4 and then for PCIe , depending on what you got attached to it , at least 1A (if you have SSD) or even 3A of you have a power hungry device.

I know it's probably way too early to ask, but would you recommend using two separate supplies for those with a Digione Sig?

Maybe a Nirvana for the audiophilePi4 and the Shanti for Digione Sig?
 
I have no timeline. I have started the design and will bring it to the market .


Lots of new ideas on the power , this time discreet . Not only they show lower noise than LT304x but they are also incredibly low impedance .


PCIe slot will be provided (one extra)


We expect to need a beefy PSU , 2.5A for RPI4 and then for PCIe , depending on what you got attached to it , at least 1A (if you have SSD) or even 3A of you have a power hungry device.

Hmm by pcie do you mean attaching it directly into a motherboard, or something
else, as I don't see how you can keep the isolation if it's the former.
 
Every day , our amp is advancing


THD at -120 (.0001) today. 10W 8R , 1Khz unweighted



My new LLC is working at 225W (50V + 15V)


I am finalizing what I think its the last PCBs on power , amp and buffer. I will try new ideas to minimize noise on output



If everything is going to plan (and it never is) , I will say 3 months to market.
 
Shanti 5V/3A replacement of connectors

I have cut off the different connectors of the 3A/5V lead and directly soldered a USB-C connector to the wire.

Is it worth the effort??

Yes, there is an audible improvement, since 2 connections with Ni-plated connectors are removed and it did cost me 2,50€ for the gold plated USB-C plug and 10 min of work to cut and solder.

The existing 18AWG cable is not of the best quality (copper does not look very shiny) but as it is too much work to remove very thing to get access to the solder points on the pbc, I just left the cable in place.

To put it in perspective my system is running as:

Audirvana 3+ on MacBookPro on battery as server streaming wireless to my router Fritzbox 7590 with iFi PS via CAT7 to the Allo USBridge Sig. running moOde as OS. The Shanti PS benefits a lot from good power cords, I use a Helix design DYI pc with 3sqmm on 230V AC.
The USB out from Allo is via JCAT Signature USB cable to Intona USB isolator via JCAT Sig USB cable to my DAC.
 
I have cut off the different connectors of the 3A/5V lead and directly soldered a USB-C connector to the wire.

Is it worth the effort??

Yes, there is an audible improvement, since 2 connections with Ni-plated connectors are removed and it did cost me 2,50€ for the gold plated USB-C plug and 10 min of work to cut and solder.

The existing 18AWG cable is not of the best quality (copper does not look very shiny) but as it is too much work to remove very thing to get access to the solder points on the pbc, I just left the cable in place.

To put it in perspective my system is running as:

Audirvana 3+ on MacBookPro on battery as server streaming wireless to my router Fritzbox 7590 with iFi PS via CAT7 to the Allo USBridge Sig. running moOde as OS. The Shanti PS benefits a lot from good power cords, I use a Helix design DYI pc with 3sqmm on 230V AC.
The USB out from Allo is via JCAT Signature USB cable to Intona USB isolator via JCAT Sig USB cable to my DAC.

I bit the bullet and removed the stock cables from the PCB. Not once, but twice.

IMO the VHAudio’s Cu21 star quad cables are completely worth it. The cotton-insulated silver wires from the same vendor were already very good, but the Cu21 manages to squeeze even more details from the music.
 
I have cut off the different connectors of the 3A/5V lead and directly soldered a USB-C connector to the wire.

Is it worth the effort??

Yes, there is an audible improvement, since 2 connections with Ni-plated connectors are removed and it did cost me 2,50€ for the gold plated USB-C plug and 10 min of work to cut and solder.

The existing 18AWG cable is not of the best quality (copper does not look very shiny) but as it is too much work to remove very thing to get access to the solder points on the pbc, I just left the cable in place.

To put it in perspective my system is running as:

Audirvana 3+ on MacBookPro on battery as server streaming wireless to my router Fritzbox 7590 with iFi PS via CAT7 to the Allo USBridge Sig. running moOde as OS. The Shanti PS benefits a lot from good power cords, I use a Helix design DYI pc with 3sqmm on 230V AC.
The USB out from Allo is via JCAT Signature USB cable to Intona USB isolator via JCAT Sig USB cable to my DAC.

Interesting.... Do you have a link to the USB-C connector you used?