i tested the drivers out of the box. they dont seems to hit anything so far. probably a combination of a lot of things inside the box. but i want to try the period correct parameters ie 5 ft3 and 40hz tuning.
its 4 inch by 1.2 as suggested by win isd (not 6) but i would prefer a 6 thus longer but cannot find any tube 6inch diameter locally. so i stay with the 4 but shortened.
its 4 inch by 1.2 as suggested by win isd (not 6) but i would prefer a 6 thus longer but cannot find any tube 6inch diameter locally. so i stay with the 4 but shortened.
I had similar scraping on a 15" in a cabinet I made once, it was due to un-even baffle hole cutting and screw holes actually bending the whole driver steel casket putting the cone out of correct piston angle. Some drivers are more sensitive to this than others especially soft steel caskets, maybe same for this driver unless its a solid alu die cast. I solved it by sanding a little extra around the baffle cutout and making the bolt holes a little bigger from 6mm to 7mm (I use M6 bolts and nuts) .
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if you give them up the diysg speakers are pretty descent. can be built as a floorstander.
https://www.diysoundgroup.com/home-...-series/home-theater-monitors/htm-12-kit.html
https://www.diysoundgroup.com/home-...-series/home-theater-monitors/htm-12-kit.html
what type of gasket are you using between the driver and baffle?
right now there are none at all. speaker is bolted directly on the 1" plywood.
it is dead flat and didnt heard any hiss or air losses there while making first tests, but sure enough i will put some once finished. that doesnt affect the problem i am experiencing with excessive vocal.
The rest of the box is PL glued and screwed, joints are perfect.
I had similar scraping on a 15" in a cabinet I made once, it was due to un-even baffle hole cutting and screw holes actually bending the whole driver steel casket putting the cone out of correct piston angle. Some drivers are more sensitive to this than others especially soft steel caskets, maybe same for this driver unless its a solid alu die cast. I solved it by sanding a little extra around the baffle cutout and making the bolt holes a little bigger from 6mm to 7mm (I use M6 bolts and nuts) .
thanks for the idea, i will look to it but the surface is dead flat for sure.
its a aluminum die cast so it is very very strong and stiff imho.
I had similar scraping on a 15" in a cabinet I made once, it was due to un-even baffle hole cutting and screw holes actually bending the whole driver steel casket putting the cone out of correct piston angle. Some drivers are more sensitive to this than others especially soft steel caskets, maybe same for this driver unless its a solid alu die cast. I solved it by sanding a little extra around the baffle cutout and making the bolt holes a little bigger from 6mm to 7mm (I use M6 bolts and nuts) .
When the ports get that short you don't need to use tubing, just glue a thin square piece of ply on the back of the baffle and cut a 6" hole through it all..
If you're rounding over both ends of the port then a piece of 18mm might get it in the ballpark.
at 6" diameter it needs to be at least 6" long too for 40hz tuning.
Sorry, I mis read that as you needed a 6" x 1.2" port.
However, It is still possible to make a port 6" x 6" long out of a series of plywood pieces glued together using a jigsaw / flush trim router to make the hole. (if you are desperate and cannot source a piece of tubing)
Cheers,
Rob.
Can you post any measurements of the woofer box / horn responses ( Raw responses, and with EQ/XO) ?
However, It is still possible to make a port 6" x 6" long out of a series of plywood pieces glued together using a jigsaw / flush trim router to make the hole. (if you are desperate and cannot source a piece of tubing)
Cheers,
Rob.
Can you post any measurements of the woofer box / horn responses ( Raw responses, and with EQ/XO) ?
I’ve never seen a 6” port, something wrong with the sim.
sim let you choose port size and amount of them.
maybe youhavebt seen it it in winisd see for yourself
part express sell 6 inch port, there are some on ebay too.
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System interaction, shoud be a consideration.
What amp(s) are you utilizing?
i have two amp to test with
Nikko Alpha 230 or BGW 7000 pro series.
i can bi amp it all using a DBX120x crossover/bass enhancer and digitizer
Nikko preamp
dual 10 band equalizer too
Luxman d105u cd player
Bose 301, Quest 8 towers floor standers
its 4 inch by 1.2 as suggested by win isd (not 6) but i would prefer a 6 thus longer but cannot find any tube 6inch diameter locally. so i stay with the 4 but shortened.
Hmm, 'sounds' like you didn't sim vent size at whatever power you're using, though 100 W is pretty much it down low in this alignment without exceeding Xmax, which does require a 6" vent to get a 'good enough' low vent mach.
FWIW, in Hornresp: 5 ft^3 net/6" i.d. x ~1.2"/3.05 cm long = 52.9 Hz, so must have a ~4.7244"/12 cm for 40 Hz.
No clue about Canada, but in my locale, 6" [and much larger] plastic pipe and jumbo cardboard mailing/kraft tubes are available, so see no reason why they aren't available locally, just may have to go to a plumbing supply for plastic and search a bit for the others or maybe get them here or similar in your locale: Shipping Tubes, Mailing Tubes, Cardboard Tubes & Poster Tubes in Stock - ULINE
GM
Hmm, 'sounds' like you didn't sim vent size at whatever power you're using, though 100 W is pretty much it down low in this alignment without exceeding Xmax, which does require a 6" vent to get a 'good enough' low vent mach.
FWIW, in Hornresp: 5 ft^3 net/6" i.d. x ~1.2"/3.05 cm long = 52.9 Hz, so must have a ~4.7244"/12 cm for 40 Hz.
No clue about Canada, but in my locale, 6" [and much larger] plastic pipe and jumbo cardboard mailing/kraft tubes are available, so see no reason why they aren't available locally, just may have to go to a plumbing supply for plastic and search a bit for the others or maybe get them here or similar in your locale: Shipping Tubes, Mailing Tubes, Cardboard Tubes & Poster Tubes in Stock - ULINE
GM
you seriously misread or didnt simulated it yourself
xmax and Watts are well entered into the parameters
winisd doest let you choose port lenght. you can only enter port diameter and amount of them and then it calculate for you the lenght.
for 5ft3 and 40hz
it is:
6" diameter then ±6 inch long OR
4 inch diameter then ±1.2 inch long
i never ever said i wanted to use a 6" diameter port of 1.2 inch lenght.
i dare you to simulate it and give me your results.
Let us know how everything goes if it’s fixable or if the driver truly is broken after all. I still wonder if it was ever played at all before you got it, if not it will require a lot of play I guess.
it got played for sure as it was into custom enclosure before i bought them.
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sure it does if the overall presentation lacks bass, the next predominant thing in most music is the vocal so one is left with "excessive vocal".that doesnt affect the problem i am experiencing with excessive vocal.
sure it does if the overall presentation lacks bass, the next predominant thing in most music is the vocal so one is left with "excessive vocal".
if its the case this might be extremely marginal please lets not argue and speculate this far, your are not there to listen to the box or evaluate if is leaks this much. by design it is extremely well sealed without a seal. i am not an idiot trying to make a speaker box with cardboard.
the excess vocal comes from the unequalized horn and it is in the excess of +10db at 4khz. the sub is cut off at 700-800hz. i honestly dont see how a badly (even extremely badly) sealed woofer would cause this....
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