Once the driver holes have been cut and countersunk and the veneer applied over them, what is the recommended process to cut the veneer out of the speaker holes in a perfect circle ?
Have used that process before but not always succesful or attractive. Tried my flush cut router bit but with the bearing and the retaining bolt it will not go deep enough.
Rough cut the circle in the veneer first using jigsaw or even a small handsaw or knife depending on veneer thickness. Then use a router with a flush trim bit to clean the cut up.
If you cut the rough circle first you can then rout from the veneer side and so depth will not be an issue.
Thanks Jim , and I can always grind the tip down if it is to long. Didnt really think of this type of bit. I have a set and will experiment tomorrow . Will post results when I find out.
Also just wanted to thank all the other speaker building gurus for lots of info and help with my novice hobby, Couldn't have enjoyed it as much as I do without you all. Thanks again
Chris’, with iron on method, made sure that he stressed the veneer at the edge where it needed rimming and then used n exact knife.
dave
dave
If veneer is well adhered, a router and spiral down cut bit will produce perfect results, with no tear out.
RFTD1600 - Whiteside Machine Company
RFTD1600 - Whiteside Machine Company
A laminate trimmer is a small router specifically used for thin laminates which are very similar to veneer. There is nothing wrong with using a router on veneer so long as you take small cuts to avoid splintering, possibly even using a climb cut (anti-clockwise if cutting a driver recess). That being said, I missed the point about the OP question, what should be used in that instance is a rebating/rabbeting bit.
update: I should mention I used exactly that bit to slightly enlarge the recess for speaker build yesterday.
Last edited:
Ok, I'll grant you that but as someone who is learning, OP should not be encouraged to think that power tools are necessary or superior. You learn the craft with no electricity, except for the lights. You can achieve the finest work by hand.
Certainly true, but even with decades of experience I wouldn't claim to be able to cut a perfect circle with hand tools, something that is trivially easy with a router and jig.
Right, but with decades of experience I'd expect that you know that's not what I'm talking about 😉
When the good members are saying X-acto knives, do they really mean box cutters?
That's all we use anymore.
That's all we use anymore.
I've seen this several times and still wonder why people rebate a driver prior to veneering. Rebates should be the last step.
The veneer is adhered properly and chance of tear out is zero.
The veneer is adhered properly and chance of tear out is zero.
Last edited:
Allen is right. If you have a circular cut-out with a circular rebate to flush mount the driver, and you have veneered the surface, you can use a sharp knife (X-acto or utility knife – use a fresh blade) to follow the rebate edge and trim the veneer. I would rough cut it with a scissors first.
A small router or laminate trimmer works well also. This is what I use.
A small router or laminate trimmer works well also. This is what I use.
For me, cutting the rebate is the second step in cutting a hole.
1) First I drill the 1/8 inch hole for the circle jig pin. This is a full depth hole. My baffles are usually 2 layers of 3/4 inch stock.
2) I cut the rebate (flange recess) so that the depth is equal to the driver flange thickness and the diameter is the driver diameter + 1mm or + 1/16 inch. I use a 3/4 diameter rabbeting bit in a small router. I use a Jasper circle jig.
3) Using a 1/4 inch spiral up-cut bit, I cut the hole. I make multiple cuts, each about 1/4 to 3/8 inch deep. Halfway through I flip the panel over and cut from the other side.
4) After the circle is cut out, I use a 60 degree chamfer bit with a roller bearing to chamfer the back side. My bit is a top-mounted bearing, so this has to be done from the back side of the panel.
Since I need access to the back side of the baffle, all my circle cutting operations have to be done before the panel is assembled to the box.
I prefer to veneer the finished box, so for me, the veneer gets applied over a fully machined driver hole. A laminate trim bit works great for trimming out the veneer, but a sharp X-acto knife would work.
1) First I drill the 1/8 inch hole for the circle jig pin. This is a full depth hole. My baffles are usually 2 layers of 3/4 inch stock.
2) I cut the rebate (flange recess) so that the depth is equal to the driver flange thickness and the diameter is the driver diameter + 1mm or + 1/16 inch. I use a 3/4 diameter rabbeting bit in a small router. I use a Jasper circle jig.
3) Using a 1/4 inch spiral up-cut bit, I cut the hole. I make multiple cuts, each about 1/4 to 3/8 inch deep. Halfway through I flip the panel over and cut from the other side.
4) After the circle is cut out, I use a 60 degree chamfer bit with a roller bearing to chamfer the back side. My bit is a top-mounted bearing, so this has to be done from the back side of the panel.
Since I need access to the back side of the baffle, all my circle cutting operations have to be done before the panel is assembled to the box.
I prefer to veneer the finished box, so for me, the veneer gets applied over a fully machined driver hole. A laminate trim bit works great for trimming out the veneer, but a sharp X-acto knife would work.