Sure, not expansive at all. You will need a Linear PSU with two secondary 2x24V AC (max) and 300VA minimum
Assembleld Hifi TPA3255 BTL Mono classe D carte amplificateur de puissance 300W C7 36 | AliExpress
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Thanks!
To power the board you only need to add a transformer (not an entire PS including rectification and caps). The description recommends a 24VAC min, 31VAC max, single winding type.
The picture shows 50V rated smoothing caps used as part of the onboard PS components and I think the TPA3255 can work with up to 48V DC, so I am not sure why you could not use a slightly higher than recommended transformer secondary voltage as long as you are careful, use it into 8R loads, etc.
I own the Stéréo version... use 24V AC MAX ! I killed my first boad with a 28V AC.... Becareful.
Regarding the sound : this is a very smooth TPA3255, I tested it with OPA1622 and 1656 as well. The best choice is OPA1656, better soundstage.
It is not as good as my TPA325X by DrModor but same level as 3E Audio Mono board. Still no PFFB on this Zero Zone boad...
Regarding the sound : this is a very smooth TPA3255, I tested it with OPA1622 and 1656 as well. The best choice is OPA1656, better soundstage.
It is not as good as my TPA325X by DrModor but same level as 3E Audio Mono board. Still no PFFB on this Zero Zone boad...
Ah, I see it's you again asking these very basic questions... You are proving that you should definitely NOT do anything with electricity until you learn some of the fundamentals of electronics! Honestly here, I am trying to keep you safe (from your own ignorance of things that could cause you harm), not insult you.
Yes to reiterate Charlie....we are here to help and not to mock.
@gasolin75 you have a lot to learn my friend before you ought to be 'playing ' with mains voltages. Even seasoned 'techs ' make mistakes but as a beginner in these circles please maybe leave power supplies alone until you have a good grasp. For you own safety and of those around you.
Good luck with the hobby. It is fantastic....keep asking questions and reading and you will learn a lot .
@gasolin75 you have a lot to learn my friend before you ought to be 'playing ' with mains voltages. Even seasoned 'techs ' make mistakes but as a beginner in these circles please maybe leave power supplies alone until you have a good grasp. For you own safety and of those around you.
Good luck with the hobby. It is fantastic....keep asking questions and reading and you will learn a lot .
I fail to see how it is possible to get the claimed "300 Watts" out of the mono ZeroZone TPA3255 amp board into 4R or 8R...
You can operate the chip in bridged mode or in parallel mode (or single ended but who wants to do that?). In bridge mode about the most you can get with the recommended rail voltage is around 185W into 4R at 10% distortion. In parallel mode, the most you can get is about 250W into 4R, or up to 450W into 2R, again at 10% THD. These are numbers straight from the MFG datasheet, folks.
ZeroZone states 4R/8R operation and a maximum of 31VAC input. Those conditions cannot produce 300W.
I suspect the amp is in BTL mode, for which 31VAC input (about a 43V DC rail after rectification and filtering) will get you to 185W at 1% THD into 4 Ohms.
Just call this an honest 175W @ 4R, 100W @ 8R, amplifier. That's fine. No need to claim the impossible... that just makes ZeroZone look, um, dis-reputable.
They are more honest with their 2-channel TPA3255 amp board. That is listed as reaching 150+150W, and it can. So what is the deal here with the inflated power claims?
You can operate the chip in bridged mode or in parallel mode (or single ended but who wants to do that?). In bridge mode about the most you can get with the recommended rail voltage is around 185W into 4R at 10% distortion. In parallel mode, the most you can get is about 250W into 4R, or up to 450W into 2R, again at 10% THD. These are numbers straight from the MFG datasheet, folks.
ZeroZone states 4R/8R operation and a maximum of 31VAC input. Those conditions cannot produce 300W.
I suspect the amp is in BTL mode, for which 31VAC input (about a 43V DC rail after rectification and filtering) will get you to 185W at 1% THD into 4 Ohms.
Just call this an honest 175W @ 4R, 100W @ 8R, amplifier. That's fine. No need to claim the impossible... that just makes ZeroZone look, um, dis-reputable.
They are more honest with their 2-channel TPA3255 amp board. That is listed as reaching 150+150W, and it can. So what is the deal here with the inflated power claims?
Belowe, photo of left and right side of opamp of a 3e-audio Rev.B PCB
i can notice that opamp feedback is already implemented differently from Rev.A. It is right?
Remain free pads for 3255 chip feedback but pads are lightly different from Rev. A PFFFB doc. Is there anyone that know something more?
i can notice that opamp feedback is already implemented differently from Rev.A. It is right?
Remain free pads for 3255 chip feedback but pads are lightly different from Rev. A PFFFB doc. Is there anyone that know something more?
They are getting the power ratings from the data sheet.
I have had my TPA3255 for about 2 years. I use it almost every day.
I have 8 ohm speakers.
I run my tpa3255 at around +53vdc. Linear PS
Max PS voltage supply from TI data sheet is 56VDC for loads > 6 ohm.
If I use a variac to get my supply to +56VDC under full load, I match or exceed TI specs for power.
Same with 4 ohm loads.
If you use a 43Volt power supply you wont get any where near the max ratings.
Remember the 300 watt rating is at 10% distortion.
I have had my TPA3255 for about 2 years. I use it almost every day.
I have 8 ohm speakers.
I run my tpa3255 at around +53vdc. Linear PS
Max PS voltage supply from TI data sheet is 56VDC for loads > 6 ohm.
If I use a variac to get my supply to +56VDC under full load, I match or exceed TI specs for power.
Same with 4 ohm loads.
If you use a 43Volt power supply you wont get any where near the max ratings.
Remember the 300 watt rating is at 10% distortion.
I checked with 3e, They supply with UKT (Nichicon Blue 105C] or UES [Nichicon Green Bipolar] or Elna [Silmic Black]. Depends on the kit you get, each production batch also has all 3 caps.
so until we get our own, can only guess and pray.
Bag of Chocolates
I'm surprised that you have heard back from 3e with detailed information about the capacitors. Mine are black Elna's by the way.
I have been trying to get answers about the PFFB modification for the new board. I have even given some of the answers myself and just simply asked for verification, but I have not heard back.
My best guess is this: the 10k resistors, R_op_fb and C_op are already there and have the correct values. The 2x R_in now sit horizontally next to each other at the top of the opamp socket and need to be replaced with 2.7k. The block with the other eight feedback components has only one minor change: one R_fb_gnd now sits horizontally above the two C_fb_out, instead of previously 90 degrees turned. The Zobel on the output is still the exact same.
Confirmations and or corrections greatly appreciated.
I have been trying to get answers about the PFFB modification for the new board. I have even given some of the answers myself and just simply asked for verification, but I have not heard back.
My best guess is this: the 10k resistors, R_op_fb and C_op are already there and have the correct values. The 2x R_in now sit horizontally next to each other at the top of the opamp socket and need to be replaced with 2.7k. The block with the other eight feedback components has only one minor change: one R_fb_gnd now sits horizontally above the two C_fb_out, instead of previously 90 degrees turned. The Zobel on the output is still the exact same.
Confirmations and or corrections greatly appreciated.
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You are lucky to get ELNA..
either it will all UKT or All UES or All ELNA.
I heard from them, that PFFB inclusion cannot even done, even as an option, as of now.
And the RTR amplifier will be coming in 2-3 months time.
For Communication with 3e, Skype is very useful and get faster response than mail.
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