So I've had fun lately snagging audio gear (mostly speakers and powered subs) from my local recycling center, but I don't know how to suss out the specs of any drivers I pull out of the enclosures. In most cases, the boxes are beat up, or completely destroyed by getting wet. Often, there's no name or info that I can use to look up the info on the drivers. How would I go about learning what it is I actually have, in case I want to use them in a project later?
Parts express has a tester for getting all the specs of drivers, and you use that info in a program like box pro and so on
The one I have is for woofers and
it’s called WT3
They have other ones
The one I have is for woofers and
it’s called WT3
They have other ones
Good luck finding specific details on modern "toss-away" products, particularly speakers, which usually come in "made in china" products.
There's a reason why they landed up in the dumpster.
There's a reason why they landed up in the dumpster.
I built a simple jig with a resistor,look up rew ts parameter measurement,some "china" drivers are surprisingly capable,some not so much..
Thanks for the replies!
I'm sorry, I wasn't clear on a couple items...
1) I don't grab anything that appears to be Chinese junk. When I say it's unbranded, I mean the drivers themselves aren't marked with any useful info, and the companies typically don't publish much in the way of actual info on the drivers they use. For example, I have a Harmon Kardon SB16 powered sub, and a single Bose 801 speaker.
2) In most cases, the enclosures are totally trashed by water damage or otherwise, and get broken down as I harvest the drivers, screws, and other components.
Thanks carlthess40 for that tester recommendation. Do you find that it's fairly accurate?
EDIT: Seems like the only tester they have available right now is this DATS V3, which looks like exactly what I want, but I don't know if spending $130 to get the specs on free speakers is a smart move... lol
I'm sorry, I wasn't clear on a couple items...
1) I don't grab anything that appears to be Chinese junk. When I say it's unbranded, I mean the drivers themselves aren't marked with any useful info, and the companies typically don't publish much in the way of actual info on the drivers they use. For example, I have a Harmon Kardon SB16 powered sub, and a single Bose 801 speaker.
2) In most cases, the enclosures are totally trashed by water damage or otherwise, and get broken down as I harvest the drivers, screws, and other components.
Thanks carlthess40 for that tester recommendation. Do you find that it's fairly accurate?
EDIT: Seems like the only tester they have available right now is this DATS V3, which looks like exactly what I want, but I don't know if spending $130 to get the specs on free speakers is a smart move... lol
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Well, if you're using that definition, quite a few "name brand" drivers are made in China now.
The Bose driver in that 801, for example, is also made in China, as are the beloved MarkAudio drivers that we use here.
What I meant by item #2 was that I don't grab out of the bin anything that feels like cheap lightweight junk, or has no name (or a low tier name) on the enclosure.
It's hard to explain, but you can generally feel and see quality, or lack thereof.
Actual country of manufacture is unimportant, I'm not a racist.
Some of my closest friends are Chinese, so I try not to judge.
+1 here on re-using and recycling drivers/gaining t/s parameters. I have a whole range of alnico drivers that are unidentifiable gained whilst harvesting nice old boxes. Be nice to put them to use.
I think characterising Chinese made drivers wholesale as junk is just nonsense.
I think characterising Chinese made drivers wholesale as junk is just nonsense.
You can use the REW software, your typical sound card or USB audio interface, and a resistor, wires, and alligator clips to make your own TS measurement tool. It’s not as easy as a $100 DATS (which I use almost very other day) as it is also great for LCR meter, and doing impedance sweep of speaker XO’s.
Hey X, thanks for joining in! So you're saying the DATS is worth the investment? I may get one at some point, but I'd love to try out that DIY method you mentioned first. Is there a guide or write-up somewhere that outlines the process in more detail?
EDIT: I did a quick search, and it appear that to use REW, I would need a calibrated mic. If I had the DATS, it does away with the need for the mic, correct? Since the recommended mic runs about $100, it seems like the simpler solution is to just get the DATS box, like you said.
HOWEVER, I'm not really prepared to drop $100 or more for gear to classify free drivers... seems counter-intuitive. 😉
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The mic is only for measuring the driver frequency response (SPL vs frequency, etc). For the T/S parameters, no mic needed. You may need a small gram scale to add a known mass to the cone to get the Vas measurement. I use silly putty as it leaves no residue. You can use oily plastic modeling clay if you cover the cone with 3M bluetape first (weigh the tape with the putty). The mass needs to be sticky so that it doesn't bounce off during the measurement. But the DATS is a very useful tool - also from standpoint of getting the true TS parameters as the factory ones are often exaggerated or just wrong. Dayton drivers are actually very accurately described in their specs. Not hyped up. The one parameter often exaggerated is Qts, seems to always be higher than stated. This is because it requires a big epensive magnet to get a smaller number.
One driver brand that is above all I have tested is Purifi - their PTT6.5 measures better than the spec, and the two units I have measure identically down to 2 to 3 significant digits for the parameters. The impedance sweep lies identitcally on top of one another,. Very good quality control.
One driver brand that is above all I have tested is Purifi - their PTT6.5 measures better than the spec, and the two units I have measure identically down to 2 to 3 significant digits for the parameters. The impedance sweep lies identitcally on top of one another,. Very good quality control.
This is good info, thanks to both the above posts.
One thing that's baffled me from day one is, what do all these numbers, specs and abbreviations actually mean? Is there a fairly simple explanation somewhere of the basics of what the various parameters of a driver mean, and how they relate to sound output? I'm looking for something that doesn't require a degree in electrical or acoustical engineering just to understand. lol
One thing that's baffled me from day one is, what do all these numbers, specs and abbreviations actually mean? Is there a fairly simple explanation somewhere of the basics of what the various parameters of a driver mean, and how they relate to sound output? I'm looking for something that doesn't require a degree in electrical or acoustical engineering just to understand. lol
Well, if you're using that definition, quite a few "name brand" drivers are made in China now.
The Bose driver in that 801, for example, is also made in China, as are the beloved MarkAudio drivers that we use here.
What I meant by item #2 was that I don't grab out of the bin anything that feels like cheap lightweight junk, or has no name (or a low tier name) on the enclosure.
It's hard to explain, but you can generally feel and see quality, or lack thereof.
Actual country of manufacture is unimportant, I'm not a racist.
Some of my closest friends are Chinese, so I try not to judge.
Ahh, but I was not talking in the "racist" context.
That term is highly overused and worn out already.
I was talking about Quality, and the lack of it, and how it's lack seems to have centered on a particular country.... reputation.
And regardless of brand names, if it's made in china, I'd worry about the quality.
I agree that things are labeled racist, or made to fit a cause far too often. However, your final statement is somewhat the definition of racism...merely judging a people (or in this case, the production quality of an entire country), based upon the origin of a product. I've spent quite some time in China, and have purchased and used a wide range of items made there. I totally agree that a good chunck of what is made there that makes it to other countries is indeed inferior, but this is simply because that's what we're paying for. Some of the finest machine tools and equipment I've ever seen were made in China, but they weren't the models meant for export, since most western markets won't pay a premium for Chinese-made items, even if they are finely made. In any case, I have no interest in making this a political or philosophical debate, and I appreciate your point of view. It just gets under my skin a little when I see generalized statements about a certain place or people that I feel to be a bit unfair.
Now...back to the technical discussion of how I know nothing about speaker drivers, but would like to learn more... 😀
So then Why are you dumpster diving for speakers with a self admitted lack of even basic knowledge of what you are rooting about in the trash for ??
Hoping to stumble over a Rembrandt perchance ?
Most of us buy their drivers. Many are surprisingly inexpensive and selected for their intended purpose.
Noting that aquiring the driver is the easier (est?) part.
Building an enclosure is no trivial task , even in Foamcore 🙂
And crossovers.. when needed.. can be a genuinely serious adventure.
Hoping to stumble over a Rembrandt perchance ?
Most of us buy their drivers. Many are surprisingly inexpensive and selected for their intended purpose.
Noting that aquiring the driver is the easier (est?) part.
Building an enclosure is no trivial task , even in Foamcore 🙂
And crossovers.. when needed.. can be a genuinely serious adventure.
Because I enjoy learning new things, and hate seeing functional equipment thrown away... and because I always take the DIY/Hack route if possible, even when it's not the most efficient. This is a hobby for me, as for most of us I assume. If I was trying to produce salable finished products, then this would be a horrible (and unethical) way to go about it. LOL
Being a semi-retired service technician in my 60's, after 45 years I've had plenty of audio products on my service bench, from everywhere in the world.
And some of the products I personally own are in the same boat.
So by now, I think I've got a pretty darn good idea of quality, design, and durability.
As for me, I've got a lot of asian neighbors around here, they're nice people.
I have no dislike for them at all, but I can't help that a lot of slop comes from their home country, and has wound up on my service bench.