I would cross closer to 250-300 Hz. Doing a passive XO down this low is not easy,
dave
actually i have read many thread of this forum, so i know why you recommend 250-300hz xo frequency.
Old telephone voice range, 300hz to 3.5khz!
Yes, big inductors! To me active xo is easy, especially second order 🙂 i am going to build ESP p81 LR2.
When I went to the home page Sweton -Transducers Since 1982 :: Pro Loudspeakers | Home Loudspeakers and scrolled to the bottom I found 'Full Range Speaker' under the 'Recent Tags' heading. You are correct that it takes you to the 'Speaker Series' page, but all the drivers therein could reasonably be called 'full range' (although certainly lacking in bass extension).
What's to stop a simple speaker being classed as 'full range'? After all, they are used in radios to good effect. The question is, how full range is full range? Unfortunately, the manufacturer doesn't tell us!
If the price is right, I would take a chance on the 6" version for your application. 🙂
There is no end to learning 🙂 Okay now i'm feeling relaxed. Not a problem i can afford it.
Btw thank you very much for giving me confidence 🙄
Hi everyone🙂 Straight to the question, Is it a full range driver?
Greets!
The pioneer's considered 50 - 11,000 c.p.s. for satisfying full orchestra reproduction.........only needing ~200-4500 c.p.s. to insure speech intelligibility, clarity............ [though] going lower does help preserve balance and naturalness of tone.
The driver's VC diameter sets the pistonic limit = ~34400/pi/2.54 = ~4,311 Hz and a WL across its HF limit = ~13,543 Hz, so anything higher is just break-up modes [noise], which judging by its paper surround, rigid appearing dust cap/whizzer joint is probably quite 'noisy'.
Regardless, not full-range by even the earliest standards except up high, merely wide range, though with CD horn EQ can probably be made ~flat out to 15-18 kHz since inductance is so low.
XO a woofer up around ~[74*200]^0.5 = ~121.7 Hz and you're good to go, high enough to protect the driver, low enough for the best speech intelligibility the driver can do.
GM
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Sweton -Transducers Since 1982 :😛T Series - Pro Loudspeakers || Home Loudspeakers
Woofer fullrange combination
Better than not listening to music.
Woofer fullrange combination
Better than not listening to music.
Attachments
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Ran the TS parameters thru the WinISD sim..
Hi-Q six-inch
Box volume, 70 liters
Tuned frequency (fb) 57 hertz
-3.08 Db @ 50.71 hertz
Port size, 102mm inside diameter, 31mm long
------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick.........
Hi-Q six-inch
Box volume, 70 liters
Tuned frequency (fb) 57 hertz
-3.08 Db @ 50.71 hertz
Port size, 102mm inside diameter, 31mm long
------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick.........
Unfortunately, they're bogus if published BL, Mmd is ~accurate. 🙁 Sd isn't spec'd, but in trying different ones based on 16.6 cm frame size, couldn't get close to either and using them yields a much lower Fs, Qts in the mid 50's/< 0.3 Qts, which I doubt in an inexpensive driver.
GM
GM
Sweton -Transducers Since 1982 :😛T Series - Pro Loudspeakers || Home Loudspeakers
Woofer fullrange combination
Better than not listening to music.
😀
Ran the TS parameters thru the WinISD sim..
Hi-Q six-inch
Box volume, 70 liters
Tuned frequency (fb) 57 hertz
-3.08 Db @ 50.71 hertz
Port size, 102mm inside diameter, 31mm long
------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick.........
Thanks 🙄 But i think for woofer asisted system 20lt is more than enough(sealed).
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Nirupam,
You are in same city as the manufacturer and I am sure its locally available there at very reasonable prices. Just try it out, its a fullrange.
You are in same city as the manufacturer and I am sure its locally available there at very reasonable prices. Just try it out, its a fullrange.
Unfortunately, they're bogus if published BL, Mmd is ~accurate. 🙁 Sd isn't spec'd, but in trying different ones based on 16.6 cm frame size, couldn't get close to either and using them yields a much lower Fs, Qts in the mid 50's/< 0.3 Qts, which I doubt in an inexpensive driver.
GM
Yes, you can say this because india is still far behind in speaker and hifi technology. Today india has reached MARS but still there is no speaker manufacturer in india that can compete with a brand like SB Acoustic. We pioneered in space and defence technology but not in the field of audio and semiconductor electronics. Sad, isn't it? As an electronics hobbyist it hurts me a lot 🙁
Anyway, these are all related to my experimentation & diy, i have my own HIFI stereo system but i can't give up my hobby for that 😉 🙂
Learning new thing everyday; about crossovers, tone controls, amplifiers, power supply, speaker enclosure construction according to t/s parameters and much more. I adore this forum as my University!
Anyway, thank you very much for giving me the time & for the help 🙂
Nirupam,
You are in same city as the manufacturer and I am sure its locally available there at very reasonable prices. Just try it out, its a fullrange.
Yeah I'm ready but as you know this covid-19 has stopped almost everything. Nothing is possible at the moment, I have to wait 🙁
No, I said it because it's true and I seriously doubt they're 'far behind' in technology, at least the driver types shown in their catalog due to nearly a century's worth of mature technology for them to copy.
That said, it was common for a long time for manufacturers, distributors, retailers to either publish no specs or some literally identical to these to seem a good brand to buy from and FWIW, virtually all the DIYers that built them were happy once EQ'd with tone controls or actual wide band equalizer.
Regardless, recommend buying them since they're basically ceiling PA drivers, so make great 'toe tapping' [small] party type speakers perfect for vintage R&R, Jazz, etc., and I assume Indian music, then measure them with REW to find out that they'll more than likely work best in a big TL just like its vintage 'relatives' do.
Once the cabs are done, time to have some fun tweaking the whizzer, dust cap, add a $0.98 Lowther tweak, etc., till you're satisfied 'enough' or not, then either add a super tweeter, maybe trim or even cut off the whizzers, etc., or move on to better drivers and a higher level of tweaking to 'taste' 🙂 [it's a very addictive hobby, especially with 'FR' drivers 😉].
GM
That said, it was common for a long time for manufacturers, distributors, retailers to either publish no specs or some literally identical to these to seem a good brand to buy from and FWIW, virtually all the DIYers that built them were happy once EQ'd with tone controls or actual wide band equalizer.
Regardless, recommend buying them since they're basically ceiling PA drivers, so make great 'toe tapping' [small] party type speakers perfect for vintage R&R, Jazz, etc., and I assume Indian music, then measure them with REW to find out that they'll more than likely work best in a big TL just like its vintage 'relatives' do.
Once the cabs are done, time to have some fun tweaking the whizzer, dust cap, add a $0.98 Lowther tweak, etc., till you're satisfied 'enough' or not, then either add a super tweeter, maybe trim or even cut off the whizzers, etc., or move on to better drivers and a higher level of tweaking to 'taste' 🙂 [it's a very addictive hobby, especially with 'FR' drivers 😉].
GM
All this talk of tweaking reminded me of this [in]famous one from the world of studio recording: Bob Hodas - Educational Resources
GM
GM
No, I said it because it's true and I seriously doubt they're 'far behind' in technology, at least the driver types shown in their catalog due to nearly a century's worth of mature technology for them to copy.
That said, it was common for a long time for manufacturers, distributors, retailers to either publish no specs or some literally identical to these to seem a good brand to buy from and FWIW, virtually all the DIYers that built them were happy once EQ'd with tone controls or actual wide band equalizer.
Regardless, recommend buying them since they're basically ceiling PA drivers, so make great 'toe tapping' [small] party type speakers perfect for vintage R&R, Jazz, etc., and I assume Indian music, then measure them with REW to find out that they'll more than likely work best in a big TL just like its vintage 'relatives' do.
Once the cabs are done, time to have some fun tweaking the whizzer, dust cap, add a $0.98 Lowther tweak, etc., till you're satisfied 'enough' or not, then either add a super tweeter, maybe trim or even cut off the whizzers, etc., or move on to better drivers and a higher level of tweaking to 'taste' 🙂 [it's a very addictive hobby, especially with 'FR' drivers 😉].
GM
Hi, sorry for the late reply. Actually i don't want to go into too much complexity for this cheap speaker driver and in fact i'm not a very good carpenter

Since i have a pair of woofers, i want to make a woofer asisted wide range system(stereo woofer fullrange set-up, sealed enclosure). Here i would like to get some technical advice because it's important for me to know what i need to be aware of while designing the system, i mean about crossovers, power distribution(amplifier power) to individual speaker etc. For crossover I'm aiming for LR2 active XO because it is quite easy to diy than LR4. It would be nice if you could say something about your experiences in this regard(WAW).
All this talk of tweaking reminded me of this [in]famous one from the world of studio recording: Bob Hodas - Educational Resources
GM
Informative.
Hi everyone 🙂 I've a question. I'm going to build separate enclosures for my WAW FR speakers with different alignment(Fc 95hz Qc1.0 for Woofers and Fc 126hz Qc0.8 for FR). Will there be any problems? Crossover point will be close to 300hz (LR2 Active) as suggested by Planet10.
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Fane make some good full rangers.
Fane 12-250TC and Fane 15-300TC.
I have a sealed box with 2 off Fane 12-250TC's in it.
Fane 12-250TC and Fane 15-300TC.
I have a sealed box with 2 off Fane 12-250TC's in it.
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