Thread moved.Remember pa bullit tweeters or horns are extremely efficient. 100 watt is a lot if you have 110 db efficient tweeter. But if you play loud live rock with drums, you need two 15 inch woofers for bass guitar. They don't need to go that low. Forget about hifi jargon, this is a completely other ball game. It's not difficult to find bass heads with built-in crossover for tweeter. It's also easy to find ready made crossovers. For hifi this is no go, but for musical instruments it's about taste. And the average bass head have plenty eq possibilities
Hi, i suppose bass sound is mainly about stacking sufficient amount square inches.
So what is your suggestion? As I said I think I should probably be prepared to be flexible and adapt to what woofers I can get my hands on. This gear is expensive in Stockholm. A tweeterhorn from say Beyma is not that expensive.
I suppose i would just buy an off the shelf passive crossovrr for the tweet at 4_5kHz. Sounds right?
Most old cabs have an attenuator for the tweeter I notice. Is that not necesssry nowadays?
This guy is into Funk. Think he uses a 4string passive bass.
So what is your suggestion? As I said I think I should probably be prepared to be flexible and adapt to what woofers I can get my hands on. This gear is expensive in Stockholm. A tweeterhorn from say Beyma is not that expensive.I suppose i would just buy an off the shelf passive crossovrr for the tweet at 4_5kHz. Sounds right?
Most old cabs have an attenuator for the tweeter I notice. Is that not necesssry nowadays?
This guy is into Funk. Think he uses a 4string passive bass.
Also danguitar have some very cheap stuff. They are not top notch but fine at the price
LA-1501-8 Thornton hojttaler-enhed 15 500W 8 Ohm
- Online og butik, billigst, kob nu
I only have seen feed back used as open baffle woofers, but they might be good for a cheap bass cabinet as well.
LA-1501-8 Thornton hojttaler-enhed 15 500W 8 Ohm
- Online og butik, billigst, kob nu
I only have seen feed back used as open baffle woofers, but they might be good for a cheap bass cabinet as well.
2 or 4 of these are excellent, you can play in any reasonable show you can get, have extended high frequency range (for a woofer) so adding a tweeter is simpler and are inexpensive.
Did I mention they are the slapper´s dream?
No actual need for a tweeter but if you insist....
They are Italian made so you should be able to order them within Europe without having to cross the Atlantic twice.
Faital Pro 10FE200 10" Speakers - Faital Pro 10FE200 home hi-fi, studio, mid-bass, bass guitar speaker 10" speaker. Faital Pro 10FE200 300 watt 10" efficiency of 96dB SPL speaker
Did I mention they are the slapper´s dream?
No actual need for a tweeter but if you insist....
They are Italian made so you should be able to order them within Europe without having to cross the Atlantic twice.
Faital Pro 10FE200 10" Speakers - Faital Pro 10FE200 home hi-fi, studio, mid-bass, bass guitar speaker 10" speaker. Faital Pro 10FE200 300 watt 10" efficiency of 96dB SPL speaker
Can´t edit old ´post, so add a new one, showing my own super compact 2 x 10" + Tweeter cabinets:
VERY portable, you can make 1 or 2, consider it a "splittable" 4 x 10"
I love slap so much that my heads include a "Slap" switch, go figure, to enhance that frequency band.
VERY portable, you can make 1 or 2, consider it a "splittable" 4 x 10"
I love slap so much that my heads include a "Slap" switch, go figure, to enhance that frequency band.
Attachments
I make my own speakers (not speaking of cabinets but the actual metallic frames) and can make *anything* from 1" dome tweeters to field coil 30" monsters.
That said, I make them commercially and must always get maximum bang for the buck ... or else, competition is cutthroat.
Painting with a broad brush, and speaking Musical Instrument speakers (Audio/HiFi is a completely different game),
1) 10" are "snappy" (hence my suggestion for Funk/Slap Bass), 12" are "middy" and 15" are "muddy".
2) 2 x 10" beat 1 x 12" hands down. I mean using same head and player, and footswitching between 2 such equipped cabinbets.
3) 2 x 12" beat a single 15" same conditions.
4) 4 x 10" *destroy* a single 15" and I am amazed by the usual combination of 1 x 15" and a 4 x 10" driven by same head, proper volume and punch balance requires 4 x 10" + TWO by 15" cabinets.
Only reason I imagine for the single 15" in such combinations must be portability, since in that case both cabinets can be same size.
5) a nice cabinet is a *large* 2 x 15" cabinet, think old (70's) Sunn, Fender, Peavey, BUT sound is old school muddy (compared to modern taste) so you will seldom see that in modern backlines.
On the contrary, 4 x 10" + tweeter for modern sound RULES.
Or 8 x 10" for Stadium level Heavy Rock and similar.
6) that said, oldish American Rockers have a sweet spot in their hearts for 2 x 15" cabinets driven by a 100W class tube head (Fender Bassman, Ampeg V4B, Sunn) and I like that sound too, only it´s a one trick pony: heads must be used crunching to add both compression and a grungy sound which comes forward (otherwise it would be lost in the mix and I mean it) and adds much needed harmonics.
No treble at all, and a boomy bass peak, which in a way is a bonus, so distortion becomes throaty but not buzzy.
Samen heads used that way with a modern cabinet are all but unusable.
For nostalgics I *do* offer an old style large 2 x 15" Bassman type cabinet, but it´s a niche product, go figure, and to be used with an old style tube head.
Fingerpicking preferred, no picks, slapping, thumbing, etc. just a steady simplish rumbling Bass line.
Works fine in a Club situation, where people listen straight to the backline, but if reamplified in a larger place, that sound often gets lost, Soundmen are not used to it.
Of course, they avoid the problem by connecting the Bass to a direct box which sends the raw sound to the mixer ... but then Head and Cabinet sound is completely lost (unused).
That said, I make them commercially and must always get maximum bang for the buck ... or else, competition is cutthroat.
Painting with a broad brush, and speaking Musical Instrument speakers (Audio/HiFi is a completely different game),
1) 10" are "snappy" (hence my suggestion for Funk/Slap Bass), 12" are "middy" and 15" are "muddy".
2) 2 x 10" beat 1 x 12" hands down. I mean using same head and player, and footswitching between 2 such equipped cabinbets.
3) 2 x 12" beat a single 15" same conditions.
4) 4 x 10" *destroy* a single 15" and I am amazed by the usual combination of 1 x 15" and a 4 x 10" driven by same head, proper volume and punch balance requires 4 x 10" + TWO by 15" cabinets.
Only reason I imagine for the single 15" in such combinations must be portability, since in that case both cabinets can be same size.
5) a nice cabinet is a *large* 2 x 15" cabinet, think old (70's) Sunn, Fender, Peavey, BUT sound is old school muddy (compared to modern taste) so you will seldom see that in modern backlines.
On the contrary, 4 x 10" + tweeter for modern sound RULES.
Or 8 x 10" for Stadium level Heavy Rock and similar.
6) that said, oldish American Rockers have a sweet spot in their hearts for 2 x 15" cabinets driven by a 100W class tube head (Fender Bassman, Ampeg V4B, Sunn) and I like that sound too, only it´s a one trick pony: heads must be used crunching to add both compression and a grungy sound which comes forward (otherwise it would be lost in the mix and I mean it) and adds much needed harmonics.
No treble at all, and a boomy bass peak, which in a way is a bonus, so distortion becomes throaty but not buzzy.
Samen heads used that way with a modern cabinet are all but unusable.
For nostalgics I *do* offer an old style large 2 x 15" Bassman type cabinet, but it´s a niche product, go figure, and to be used with an old style tube head.
Fingerpicking preferred, no picks, slapping, thumbing, etc. just a steady simplish rumbling Bass line.
Works fine in a Club situation, where people listen straight to the backline, but if reamplified in a larger place, that sound often gets lost, Soundmen are not used to it.
Of course, they avoid the problem by connecting the Bass to a direct box which sends the raw sound to the mixer ... but then Head and Cabinet sound is completely lost (unused).
I would go for one very high power 10" speaker with neodymium magnet and lots of x-max, a high power but lightweight class d-amp (with dsp if you really want to fine tune the frequency curve) and a preamp of choice.
This setup is very portable, flexible, relatively cheap (speaker is going to cost the most) and only if you have a stadium gig, you'll need something else.
This setup is very portable, flexible, relatively cheap (speaker is going to cost the most) and only if you have a stadium gig, you'll need something else.
System power to the bass drivers is not all delivered to any tweeter or other high frequency driver only. The crossover; if properly designed, will protect the high frequency drivers except under extreme conditions. The high frequency drivers never actually see 350 Watts unless you are talking stadium stacks and then it is not just one driver but an entire array of drivers...did this clear it up or make it even more confusing?
What ever high frequency driver you decide on, the higher order high pass crossover will be the safest bet. 3rd order minimum, 4th order even better...
(I haven't owned or played a bass in over 40 years. When I did, I had a 70's bass reflex/horn hybrid cabinet with two 15 inch "bass guitar" speakers in parallel; no top end at all but it didn't matter to me back in those days...)
Everybody does, but if your cabinet sound is muddy it won´t cut through so what people end up hearing is mainly the clean and defined direct box sound (boring like any straight-into-desk is).
Great response everyone.
It should be easier to build cabs with 10in woofers so if that is the preferred sound now even better. Even if I like the look of 15in woofers very much. It seems Im an old American rocker.
That 2x10 ported box by Fahey looks very sweet. I thought a 210 was not enough even for practising with. Perhaps I should build one like that, and have a connector for chain coupling another cab?
Is 15mm plywood good?
I thought a bullet tweeter with attenuator for the tweeter was more or less standard, but many have only woofers?
Another thought, is it possible to have a cab that is good both for guitar and for bass?
It should be easier to build cabs with 10in woofers so if that is the preferred sound now even better. Even if I like the look of 15in woofers very much. It seems Im an old American rocker.
That 2x10 ported box by Fahey looks very sweet. I thought a 210 was not enough even for practising with. Perhaps I should build one like that, and have a connector for chain coupling another cab?
Is 15mm plywood good?
I thought a bullet tweeter with attenuator for the tweeter was more or less standard, but many have only woofers?
Another thought, is it possible to have a cab that is good both for guitar and for bass?
I have heard a modern bass amp that just had two 10 inch and it was plenty loud enough for small clubs, etc. You can always do a 2X10, with or without a tweeter. Then; duplicate this with another 2X10 later on and build from there, (etc. and so on). As many as you need. My brother has a modern bass amp with just one 10 inch for practice; this is plenty for any normal size room in a house, basement, garage, etc. Why don't you get in contact with the applications Engineers at Eminence? I have meet them and talked with them in person at a training session and seminar years ago. They will give you a straight answer; not a sales con...They have at least one tweeter (or more???) designed SPECIFICALLY for "bass guitar"...
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