I'm not happy about doing that as it's just blown on of the motherboard fuses so something isn't right and I've used my last spare fuse. I've checked and rechecked my PSU and it's correct as per Mick F's site. I'm using a a dual LT1083 PSU on set to 7.6v and the 3.6 both grounds are connected together to so they aren't floating away from each other.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I've now tried the PSU on a 1002 and a 5002 they both exhibit the same thing
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I have been having some problems with the output of my PS-1001. The left channel used to drop in volume. But by raising the volume of the pre-amp the channel would restore itself. I thought the pod in my pre-amp was going bad. But the amp is doing fine on turntable and radio input. Finally both channels of the 1001 quit all together and no sound is produced.
Could someone direct me to where the source of the problem could be
Could someone direct me to where the source of the problem could be
Good morning Gentlemen,
this blog is fantastic and fun, I realised how satisfying it could be to success this mod for such little money and few tweaks and enjoy a natural and organic sound result...
I will received soon my PS1/1002.
Do you have made a synthesis until now of all your positive modifications for a beginner like me?
I dream to design something near the look of the Marantz CD transport (see picture)
Thank you for your attention.
Best regards to you and congratulations
this blog is fantastic and fun, I realised how satisfying it could be to success this mod for such little money and few tweaks and enjoy a natural and organic sound result...
I will received soon my PS1/1002.
Do you have made a synthesis until now of all your positive modifications for a beginner like me?
I dream to design something near the look of the Marantz CD transport (see picture)
Thank you for your attention.
Best regards to you and congratulations
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Hi TYM, Like me you are late to the party. I don't think many people are building PS1s anymore. the best source of help is still Mick F's site: Mick Feuerbacher Audio Projects Rather than build a new PSU I bought a dual output LT1083 PSU that I put in a case (had to mod it slightly to get it to work).
I've also replaced the opamps with a stand alone valve buffer using a 6H5C or (6080) valve.
Next I will integrate the remote sensor. Eventually, I intend to build a PS1 using two ECC88 valves in the case. (with a separate supply). I wish you luck with your build and I'm happy to help if I can. I wish I had the skills to build one that looks like that Marantz.🙂
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Thank you very much Neil,
It is nice from you I appreciate your support.
I will follow your advices and this from Mike.
Congratulation for your works that looks very fine.
Best regards
Have a nice week end
Tym
It is nice from you I appreciate your support.
I will follow your advices and this from Mike.
Congratulation for your works that looks very fine.
Best regards
Have a nice week end
Tym
Hello gentlemen,
I have some problem with my PS1 reading CD....Please could you tell me if you need a TV connection or a screen to use your PS1 with the PS2 remote control? Can you play the first track directly after installing the CD using the remote START button ?
Thank you for your help.
Musically yours...
TYM
I have some problem with my PS1 reading CD....Please could you tell me if you need a TV connection or a screen to use your PS1 with the PS2 remote control? Can you play the first track directly after installing the CD using the remote START button ?
Thank you for your help.
Musically yours...
TYM
Hi Tym, You don't need a TV connection but if you are having prblems, it could be useful to see what's happening. Personally, I just use the remote play and next functiom on the remote.
Thank you Neil,
It’s nice from you. I appreciate your support and great attention.
I did all the laser alignements of Mike recommandations.,But
The remote has unfortunatly no control on the player fonction.
After the start of the PS1, the screen show a menu with two icons: memory cards and music application. If I chose the music application, the CD stop to turn and the player navigation interface can not be controlled...
Do you think, I should change the optical block?
It’s nice from you. I appreciate your support and great attention.
I did all the laser alignements of Mike recommandations.,But
The remote has unfortunatly no control on the player fonction.
After the start of the PS1, the screen show a menu with two icons: memory cards and music application. If I chose the music application, the CD stop to turn and the player navigation interface can not be controlled...
Do you think, I should change the optical block?
Hi Tym, It's not something I've experienced. I don't have those menu options. Have you got a memory card inserted? I wonder if it's something more than optical. Sorry I can't be more precise.
Hi
I had two 1001's packed away for a rainy day, dug them out a few weeks ago as I am still on furlough. Don't plan to go too mad with them but at least take the crap out following Dogbreath site mods.
I can't disconnect the ribbon and power wired to laser, I assume they can be unclipped like I have managed to do with the power.
Can these be taken out easily without breaking them?
I had two 1001's packed away for a rainy day, dug them out a few weeks ago as I am still on furlough. Don't plan to go too mad with them but at least take the crap out following Dogbreath site mods.
I can't disconnect the ribbon and power wired to laser, I assume they can be unclipped like I have managed to do with the power.
Can these be taken out easily without breaking them?
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The ribbon goes through a slot in the black plastic socket. This is the locking bezel.
Gently pull the black plastic surround upwards (about 3mm) and the ribbon should come free. Be very gently with the ribbon. I've cracked one myself. Refitting it is the reverse.
The other cable should come out easily but pull it by the green plastic - not the wire.
Thanks for reply Datun
I managed to raise the top of the black plastic a bit but bottled out taking it any further not wanting to break it. So the ribbon comes out as just a ribbon, none of the black plastic remains attached to it?
No, the black plastic is attached to the body of the socket on a sliding mechanism.
Just the ribbon comes out. Once you have the black bit raised (equally all round so not sloping at one side) the ribbon should come out relatively easily with a slight pull.
Just the ribbon comes out. Once you have the black bit raised (equally all round so not sloping at one side) the ribbon should come out relatively easily with a slight pull.
Thanks very much for clarifying this Datun. Successful, now its time to desolder 🙂
Good luck. Here's a picture of mine
The right hand box is the opamp replacement. running either 6H5C or 6080 valves depending on my mood. I intend to integrate the infra red at some point but (you know how it is) too many projects too little time