First time speaker builder here, making 2x 15" 55-60l sealed down firing subwoofers. Powered by an A800, Kept in check by a miniDSP 2x4.
I'm aware it's wise to flush mount mid/mid-bass drivers, but is it worth me going to the trouble of cutting out a couple pieces of wood to glue/screw to the bottom of the baffle plate in order to get at least pretty close to flush-ish mounting.
It would be a bit of a ballache to be honest. The project is getting close to that satisfying stage of screwing/gluing things together. I'd have a couple things to give a minor redesign to, and I do NOT trust my jigsaw skills quite enough to match the line I draw around my driver flange with my jigsaw😀
They will never be played particularly loud if that makes any difference,
But... If there's a significant sonic benefit to it, then it's probably worth my trouble.
Thanks for reading,
Jon James
I'm aware it's wise to flush mount mid/mid-bass drivers, but is it worth me going to the trouble of cutting out a couple pieces of wood to glue/screw to the bottom of the baffle plate in order to get at least pretty close to flush-ish mounting.
It would be a bit of a ballache to be honest. The project is getting close to that satisfying stage of screwing/gluing things together. I'd have a couple things to give a minor redesign to, and I do NOT trust my jigsaw skills quite enough to match the line I draw around my driver flange with my jigsaw😀
They will never be played particularly loud if that makes any difference,
But... If there's a significant sonic benefit to it, then it's probably worth my trouble.
Thanks for reading,
Jon James
Down firing probably messes sound path WAY more than whatever difference flush mounting can make.
I don't trust my woodworking skills either, so I cut as close as I dare and do the finishing with a hand file. Takes longer, but I'm less scared of messing up.
If you don't want to do the flush mounting, take a look at options for flaring the hole in the baffle plate.
If you don't want to do the flush mounting, take a look at options for flaring the hole in the baffle plate.
I have had 10 different subs
And the 15” firing towards the wall (that’s technically too close to the wall for size of driver) and not flush mounted is the best sub I’ve ever had and sound miles better than anything I’ve ever had commercially.
And for the record I do very much play it loud.
Important things that make a sub sound good are
Good driver
Correct volume box
Well build box
positioned well in room
decent amp
phase/ time aligned to your mains
correct level and crossovers
Room EQ
Measure with rew and tweak
That’s where it’s at
And the 15” firing towards the wall (that’s technically too close to the wall for size of driver) and not flush mounted is the best sub I’ve ever had and sound miles better than anything I’ve ever had commercially.
And for the record I do very much play it loud.
Important things that make a sub sound good are
Good driver
Correct volume box
Well build box
positioned well in room
decent amp
phase/ time aligned to your mains
correct level and crossovers
Room EQ
Measure with rew and tweak
That’s where it’s at
Thanks folks.
Those are all things I have sorted (I hope) so looks like I'm on to a pair of winners.
Those are all things I have sorted (I hope) so looks like I'm on to a pair of winners.
Dont know if you have a router but they make cutting driver holes a lot easier/accurate.(with an easy to make jig).
Cheers,
Rob.
Cheers,
Rob.
@trojantrow - Ta dude. So do I!
@RobWells - I'm afraid not. I spunked the big project spend on a table saw. A router for my next sub/speaker project might be on the cards though. God I'd love one, but not as much as I loved the idea of having a table saw!
@RobWells - I'm afraid not. I spunked the big project spend on a table saw. A router for my next sub/speaker project might be on the cards though. God I'd love one, but not as much as I loved the idea of having a table saw!
Attachments
LOL Btw., you'll need to do something similar with your down firing design as well. I don't know how much of a gap you have between the sub and the floor, but cats can (and will) get into impossibly tiny gaps. A wire mesh 'skirt' is highly recommended.
Do they make steel grid covers big enough? I see them on lots of 12" car subs but I've not seen anything bigger in a while
Hello @trojantrow, how many Watts for decent bass in a regular sized room (7x5m)?
That's a goos shuot there... A couple of 15" grilles woild be great.
Subs will be about 100mm off the ground. Not enough for th4he godzilla beast to get under, but the little female... I suspect she might manage it. Also, is not there'es the whole "hassing a ball of fluf under the sub and randomelu claeing it to egt it oitl£
Subs will be about 100mm off the ground. Not enough for th4he godzilla beast to get under, but the little female... I suspect she might manage it. Also, is not there'es the whole "hassing a ball of fluf under the sub and randomelu claeing it to egt it oitl£
15" cat rptectors puerchased 🙂
Cats and aidio often mix well eh.
sorryu fro rhe hu=impy wyoutkkhuwtwijr uo--0------- just woke uo9p[[
Cats and aidio often mix well eh.
sorryu fro rhe hu=impy wyoutkkhuwtwijr uo--0------- just woke uo9p[[
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Well. That’s a tough question to answer because of the following.
1. what do you call good bass. People are happy at different levels
2. what type of content are you listening to. Movies or music
3. Have you considered ported enclosures? They are more efficient and need lots less wattage for a given volume. But it depends on your answer to question 2
4. Can you accommodate 2 subs? Cos that’s the best thing to do regardless of wattage, ported it sealed or how many watts.
5. Are you size limited
If just talking regular sealed, then the watts will depend on the driver and enclosure size.
For instance I have a single 15” high Xmax driver in a 140litre enclosure. Sealed. With 1000w RMS pro amplifier
My room is 5.1 x 4m. Output is fine down low, pushing it a bit so I’m building another. And I have a huge 40 to 50hz dip in response that I can’t get rid of with EQ. Due to standing waves. The second sub will fix this
This will make me flat to 20hz at around 110db in room. Which I think is good enough. But some would say not
But if I were just listening to music I wouldn’t have picked the high Xmax drivers. As the mid bass slam isn’t that good. It’s good for movies. And good quality for music but that kick drum isn’t as big as ide like.
Best getting some good 18” pro type drivers for music if movies is not an issue. They also blend easier with the mains.
Sorry for long post but you see how complicated it get with so many variables.