Krell KSA 50 PCB

@chiily
Look here:
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Thanks for those. I know how to insulate the TO3 device from the heatsink. My concern is that the collector on the bolt (on the +ive supply), from the top of the device is connected to a metal standoff that mounts the main PCB on a pad that is connected to the +ive supply. That gives two power collections between the two boards. And that the standoff is "live".
 
I'm building a KSA50 clone based on Jim's Audio boards and his KSA50 clone heatsink.

One area that I'm confused with is the standoffs of the PCB from the heatsink. These standoffs attach to one the mounting bolts of the TO3 output devices and hence are live at the +48Vdc supply (-48Vdc on the PNP boards), if the standoff and mounting screws are metal. On the main PCB the holes for the standoffs are electrically connected to the +48Vdc and -48Vdc tracks (NPN and PNP respectively).

This does seem strange as there is already a +48Vdc/-48Vdc wire between the main PCB and the driver boards on the heatsink. So why electrically connect the boards through the standoffs???

My question is whether I should be insulating the standoffs with say a nylon spacer at the main PCB end, or that the live standoff is 'normal'?

I would insulate the standoffs and connect directly to the pcb.
 
First thanks everyone here for this great discussion. I have read it several times over the past couple of months and was able to build KSA-50 from reading it only, without a single question. All conceivable questions were answered here.

I have used +30-0--30 transformer and my rails are slightly above +-42V. Currently I am testing everything at low bias. It is very likely that I will have to use forced convection to attain higher bias level because I don't want to trade-of quality for the convenience of passive cooling.

:cheers:

@chiili:

...
My question is whether I should be insulating the standoffs with say a nylon spacer at the main PCB end, or that the live standoff is 'normal'?

Today, I have successfully completed my KSA-50, without smoke. I hope you have meanwhile also solved the problem with isolating stand-offs. I am using an identical board, and if you haven't solved the problem yet, let me tell you how I did that:

I use two 3.5kg (0,3C/W) flat back heat sinks and two pairs of 15024 and 15025. I did not use nylon washers on the bolt because it must conduct to the appropriate connection on the copper side of the board. However, I have put TO-3 nylon washers into boreholes on the heat sink, to prevent contact of the board with the surface of the heat sink. Washers also prevent contact between the bolts and heat sink.
 
However, I have put TO-3 nylon washers into boreholes on the heat sink, to prevent contact of the board with the surface of the heat sink. Washers also prevent contact between the bolts and heat sink.

I just noticed this piece of information in your post. Please bear in mind the maximun temperature Nylon can be used at. The maximum service temperature can be as low as 80°C . You may want to look into it (if you have not already done so) .
Nice work :)
Cheers,
Eric
 
Thanks

I just noticed this piece of information in your post. Please bear in mind the maximun temperature Nylon can be used at. The maximum service temperature can be as low as 80°C . You may want to look into it (if you have not already done so) .
Nice work :)
Cheers,
Eric
Thanks for the warning Eric,:)

I do indeed appreciate preparedness to help at this forum in general and a great attitude of participants in this thread in particular.

I have decided to remain at the safe side regarding temperature: 60 deg C on the heat sink with:

(1) Honeywell commercial thermostat 2455R close to transistors on the both channels.
(2) 0.3 C/W heat sink
(3) a silent fan

Calculations have indicated that it is virtually impossible to attain satisfactory biassing of this amplifier without the use of forced convection. Running this amplifier at low biass would have been an inaceptable trade-off. Hence, I am experimenting right now with suitable layout of chassis to provide the best cooling at minimum fan velocity/noise. As a model I am using a plywood chassis model which is easy to modify and adjust. When I find an adequate layout I plan to make a chassis from 3mm aluminium sheets.

I want this amplifier feel comfortable at my home. :hphones:
 
This quote is from another tread, but this belongs here
Hi all, for what it'sworth.
I built a KSA50 clone with reduced supply rails and biased to give 30W at 8 Ohm. I used passive cooling with heatsinks along either side of a case I constructed from 10mm aluminium plate. The heatsinks were approx 400x 125x 40mm. They would run at about 50C which was OK, but the other components, Filter caps, transformers, etc would also reach this type of temperature due to heat convection.
Although all worked fine I have decided that I was not happy with those sort of temps so I am now re-building using fan cooling.
I have a heatsink similar to the original Krell but taller and a 120mm Papst 240V fan with a speed control. The fan has rubber mountings and fitted to the bottom of the heatsink. After a lot of playing I have found that I can dissapate the heat and maintain a temperature of approx 25C above ambiant and the fan running at 150V is virtually silent. Plus everything else in the case remains cool.
How you guys with KSA100's manage to get rid of the heat beats me, I'm full of admiration.
Hope this thread or the original KSA50 thread keeps going, it's given me a lot of pleasure.
Cheers
Alan
Alan,:cool:

Your quoted post is the best description of the problem of biassing this amplifier whilst maintaining the need for forced convection at minimum.

Initially I hoped that passive cooling would have been just enough but it has put too stringent constraint on biassing current.
Running this fine amplifier at low biass seems to me like buying a fine stallion and castrating him out of hand. It sounds the best hot, unleashed.

I have managed to keep temperatures under control with minimum aid of forced convection whilst maintaining bias current at 450 mA per device. To achieve this I have used airtight chassis and have left just three openings:

(1) on the back of the chassis there is an opening for a 120mm fan, for the entrance of air
(2) two narrow slots below heat sinks as exaust

My objextive was not to create excessive flow rates, rather to create well controlled air flow throughout the entire chassis.
Photo 1 is presents my initial design concept - a simple steel skeleton. In front you may see my MIG welding gun and at tle left there is my welding mask. The rough surface under the skeleton is my steel welding bench. This steel skeleton is already scrapped.

Now, imagine these two sinks shifted towards the center of the skeleton. With this confoguration all components are well exposed to the air flow which enters horizontally.

I have used »be quiet« Shadow Wings 2 120mm fan operating at reduced voltage, at 10VDC. It is dead silent at reduced voltage. There are two slots below the heat sinks. I have fixed the both driver boards on top of the chassis with with components facing the bottom of the chassis.On the photo 2 you may see components in a plywood model, turned upside-down. During operation the chassis is sealed.

Output stage is fixed on two flat back heat sinks with dimensions 300x200x40 mm. The fan blows air across all components and air is well mixed. The point of this approach is to create enough turbulences inside the chassis to make the film of hot air at surfaces of components generating heat as thin as possible. Above the heat sinks I have left 1/4 inch slot to direct the airflow towards the outer side where narrow slots are located to direct the air out of the chassis in a controlled way across the heat sinks. Please note, that it is not necessary to blow the air directly towards the heat sinks. That is in fact counterproductive because direct blowing of air against the heat sinks locally creates channels of high air velocity while leaving dead-ends on other parts of heat sink, with zero flow rate. What really matters is to create an overpressure within the chamber and then let the air spontaneously flow through a thin slot. This creates an uniform plug-flow across the entire heat exchange area. In turn, this reduces thickness of hot air otherwise blocking heat exchange. In this way it is possible to displace all air from the chassis in an optimal way whilst maintaining increased heat transfer.

I have tested this on a plywood model and the result is well tuned amplifier. Now I just wait shops to be re-opened after this Corona maddness to purchase aluminium sheets and make a decent chasis for this amplifier.

Cheers:)

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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I have mje 15032 is teorical correct sostitute, and base resistor , 2,2 ohm is necessary ?
There are four things that could be usefull for you:

1. Regarding Q111 substitute you are correct about MJE15032

2. Partlist by pinkmouse

3. Original schematics (in the middle of the schematics there are individual devices.

4. Revised schematic published at this forum, I forgot where but I have download it. It is attached below.

Regarding the 2.2 resistor I am not sure because there is no 2.2 resistor in any of part lists of KSA-50 I have ever seen.

I am sure there are other experienced experts arround here who should help you to complete this project. My present day knowledge isn't sufficient to do that adequately, but in few months I will improve - I'm a quick learner.

I wish you lots of luck and health which you will need these days in Italy.

In bocca al lupo! :) (Eng. Good luck)
 

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There are four things that could be usefull for you:

1. Regarding Q111 substitute you are correct about MJE15032

2. Partlist by pinkmouse

3. Original schematics (in the middle of the schematics there are individual devices.

4. Revised schematic published at this forum, I forgot where but I have download it. It is attached below.

Regarding the 2.2 resistor I am not sure because there is no 2.2 resistor in any of part lists of KSA-50 I have ever seen.

I am sure there are other experienced experts arround here who should help you to complete this project. My present day knowledge isn't sufficient to do that adequately, but in few months I will improve - I'm a quick learner.

I wish you lots of luck and health which you will need these days in Italy.

In bocca al lupo! :) (Eng. Good luck)

Thank’ s for your information

the situation in Italy is difficult, but let's move on, thanks for the support.