I used Ian's SMT Oven soldering method. Worked like a champ.
DocumentDownload/SMDtutorial.md at f1563905815aca469baf1f99f6762758e19a012a * iancanada/DocumentDownload * GitHub
DocumentDownload/SMDtutorial.md at f1563905815aca469baf1f99f6762758e19a012a * iancanada/DocumentDownload * GitHub
Thanks, never thought of that, was scared that the heat will damage the oscillator.
I'll try with hot air gun.
I'll try with hot air gun.
dedicated toaster oven
IMHO even better is buying a toaster oven dedicated to smt soldering. It ramps up quickly. It has digital controls. And I think you should not eat food from an oven that has baked solder paste.
Even though I have and use the toaster oven, I find hot air gun the easiest way particularily once you understand the target temperature ramp times.
IMHO even better is buying a toaster oven dedicated to smt soldering. It ramps up quickly. It has digital controls. And I think you should not eat food from an oven that has baked solder paste.
Even though I have and use the toaster oven, I find hot air gun the easiest way particularily once you understand the target temperature ramp times.
Shown here.
https://www.ndk.com/catalog/AN-CO_PFU_e.pdf
I tin the PCB pads first then remove excess solder, add component then solder.
Way better for your health. My wife would kill me if I used our toaster oven to solder boards 🙂
On a more serious note, I used a solder iron with a fine tip to mount my ndk clocks, and so far they have worked. I also use a dmm to check for shorts and make sure I have good connections. With small parts like this, I use a metal probe that is small diameter coming to a fine point to do the probing. Normal dmm probes don't work well.
I use a mixture of hot air and soldering iron. I make a jig to hold the board and have a chemistry lab retort to hold the hot air gun vertical.
Tin the pads and remove excess solder with iron, then preheat component and board to around 120 C. with hot air.
Hold component in position with a toothpick and solder pads with the iron. The hot air preheat helps with large ground planes when using a small iron tip.
Tin the pads and remove excess solder with iron, then preheat component and board to around 120 C. with hot air.
Hold component in position with a toothpick and solder pads with the iron. The hot air preheat helps with large ground planes when using a small iron tip.
I’ve got a build question. My IC ES9028 dac sounds excellent and is currently on a piece of wood. Now I want to build it decently inside a case. Are there any properly build examples inside a hifi2000 galaxy case? The display isn’t very easy to build in I think.
Attachments
I used a transparant black polycarb sheet instead of the aluminium front. Behind this sheet i mounted the displays (not the ESS controller because i dont use it want but the principle is the same) All this inside a hifi2000 galaxy case. I'll post some pics later...
I'd considered the front panel from tinted/smoke acrylic with the display behind....hopefully visible through
The challenge for me is how to mount the display with pcb. The encoder is a mounting point but will put the display even further to the back.
Can I ask a noob question please.
I am just putting Pi > FifoPi > Transportpi.
I was going to power pi through Fifopi but I am low on power supplies and was wanting to play.
On Transportpi it says to remove L1 if use DC with Pi.
That means remove L1 if I am powering Pi via its standard micro usb right?
Is it a MUST or I will kill it or is it recommended for quality?
I am just putting Pi > FifoPi > Transportpi.
I was going to power pi through Fifopi but I am low on power supplies and was wanting to play.
On Transportpi it says to remove L1 if use DC with Pi.
That means remove L1 if I am powering Pi via its standard micro usb right?
Is it a MUST or I will kill it or is it recommended for quality?
Last edited:
I do have an old Nokia charger that is 3.7v 355ma.
I was considering just using that for now for the fifopi.
It is above the 200ma minimum.
But I wasn't sure, when i read the destructions, whether it has to be the battery type at that sort of voltage for some reason?
Can I use it to run the fifopi ?
I was considering just using that for now for the fifopi.
It is above the 200ma minimum.
But I wasn't sure, when i read the destructions, whether it has to be the battery type at that sort of voltage for some reason?
Can I use it to run the fifopi ?
You can use it but it would not deliver the quality the fifopi is capable of. Better to use a good lineair or battery supply.
These smps are very noisy (they are designed for simple battery charging, not audio)
Thanks for that.
I was just looking forward to getting it up and running while I pondered my next move.
As it happens, I am now waiting for a used Ian Canada lifepo4.
Which I am quite excited about.
I was just looking forward to getting it up and running while I pondered my next move.
As it happens, I am now waiting for a used Ian Canada lifepo4.
Which I am quite excited about.
Hi everybody
I have a minor problem, but can't find a simple solution. ESScontroller reacts to few of my remotes. Any hints how to turn the IR receiver off as I really don't need it. Currently it makes more harm as volume keeps changing.
Was thinking about taping the IR receiver up 🙂 Maybe there's a simpler solution.
I have a minor problem, but can't find a simple solution. ESScontroller reacts to few of my remotes. Any hints how to turn the IR receiver off as I really don't need it. Currently it makes more harm as volume keeps changing.
Was thinking about taping the IR receiver up 🙂 Maybe there's a simpler solution.
Need help !
Hello !
I received for my birthday a FIFOPI, which I would like to use between my BBB and DDDAC. Unfortunalety, it seems that i2s signal doesn't arrive to FIFOPI. I tried with BBB and a USB to I2S card, nothing in both cases.
USB to I2S card connected to DDDAC works fine but USB to I2S connected to FIFOPI doesn't work 🙁
Here is the pinout used to supply i2s to FIFOPI:
Wiring
Many thanks for your help !
Julien, future happy man 😀
Hello !
I received for my birthday a FIFOPI, which I would like to use between my BBB and DDDAC. Unfortunalety, it seems that i2s signal doesn't arrive to FIFOPI. I tried with BBB and a USB to I2S card, nothing in both cases.
USB to I2S card connected to DDDAC works fine but USB to I2S connected to FIFOPI doesn't work 🙁
Here is the pinout used to supply i2s to FIFOPI:
Wiring
Many thanks for your help !
Julien, future happy man 😀
Last edited: