Changing the inductor value makes a great deal of difference as to how much mid/treble is reproduced by the bass speaker.
Did you not see my post telling you which replacement inductor to buy to match the mid's capacitor?
Did you not see my post telling you which replacement inductor to buy to match the mid's capacitor?
i did read:
Use 0.8mH if using 12/13 uF for mid.
Use 0.6mH if using 10uF for the mid.
currently i was using 13uF with the original coil and with the old and unsensitive bass cone the mids were ok.
i changed the bass cone which has a massive magnes so i guess also the induction went up there and did not do any changes to the coil or caps inside but the mids stopped to play.
The 'induction' of the bass driver has nothing to do with it.
If the mid suddenly stopped playing after you fitted the replacement bass driver, then it is likely that you have disturbed the wiring and the mid is no longer in circuit.
So, for the record, please state clearly whether the mid is absolutely silent or just playing quietly.
If this renovation has any chance of working out, then all components must be as recommended and the old wiring should be replaced by new, tidy wiring.
If the mid suddenly stopped playing after you fitted the replacement bass driver, then it is likely that you have disturbed the wiring and the mid is no longer in circuit.
So, for the record, please state clearly whether the mid is absolutely silent or just playing quietly.
If this renovation has any chance of working out, then all components must be as recommended and the old wiring should be replaced by new, tidy wiring.
hi Galu, it is done. It is playing like never before. The PP Caps came 🙂
ad mids: the mids were probably playing before but due to the new lows cone i could hear them more from the lows cone than from the mids cone. possibly a psycho accustic effect.
after installing the new caps the mids are definitely audible from the mids cone (did choose 12uF because they were slightly better than with 10uF). at tweeters i do not hear any change compared to the electrolites with 2,2uF that where there before.
thank you for all your help i am done now with this box. possibly will take a look at the coil later but this will mean i have to do a lot of mounting work on that box if i try to replace it.
ad mids: the mids were probably playing before but due to the new lows cone i could hear them more from the lows cone than from the mids cone. possibly a psycho accustic effect.
after installing the new caps the mids are definitely audible from the mids cone (did choose 12uF because they were slightly better than with 10uF). at tweeters i do not hear any change compared to the electrolites with 2,2uF that where there before.
thank you for all your help i am done now with this box. possibly will take a look at the coil later but this will mean i have to do a lot of mounting work on that box if i try to replace it.
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Nice capacitors! Glad you have found an improvement.
Just remember that if the present inductor (the separate coil which is wired in series with your bass driver) has too small a value then the bass driver will play up into the mids - something you seem to have experienced.
You should get a further improvement by fitting the 'correct' inductor which is 0.8mH.
This combination of drivers will never be perfect, but may still benefit from this final substitution.
Just remember that if the present inductor (the separate coil which is wired in series with your bass driver) has too small a value then the bass driver will play up into the mids - something you seem to have experienced.
You should get a further improvement by fitting the 'correct' inductor which is 0.8mH.
This combination of drivers will never be perfect, but may still benefit from this final substitution.
i will buy the coil soon and will report here after i fit it.
did check now a local shop but they do not have 0,8mH. can i combine 2x400uH (series? or parallel?) or how does it work?
did check now a local shop but they do not have 0,8mH. can i combine 2x400uH (series? or parallel?) or how does it work?
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Inductance combines like resistance, in series to add. But the individual inductors must not be coupled by magnetic fields for this to be true. If they couple the combined inductance might be more or less than you calculate...
Its uneconomic to combine inductance like this because only 40% more turns on one inductor will approx double the inductance, saving the cost of a whole second inductor.
the idea was to visit a real shop and buy a coil but for audio things i just have to order online...
Galu i was inspired by the idea of exchanging the caps for non electrolite so i bought 4 x 10uF that i did put in the crossover of my pieces that i have now for 20 years: RADIOTEHNIKA S-30b. Made in USSR.
And yes they sound much clearer now 🙂
Galu i was inspired by the idea of exchanging the caps for non electrolite so i bought 4 x 10uF that i did put in the crossover of my pieces that i have now for 20 years: RADIOTEHNIKA S-30b. Made in USSR.
And yes they sound much clearer now 🙂
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Hi Galu,
the coil has arived but after mounting it the basses were gone completely. I now mounted the original coil. Also the difference is that the new coil does not have a ferrite core but the old one has.
See the pic (left original, right new and do not care about the winding it is now winded properly)
the coil has arived but after mounting it the basses were gone completely. I now mounted the original coil. Also the difference is that the new coil does not have a ferrite core but the old one has.
See the pic (left original, right new and do not care about the winding it is now winded properly)
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Galu you are a perfectionist. I just left the original wiring as it was and replaced just the electrolites for the pp caps and the bass cone as it was not performing well. now tried to replace the one and only coil in the system. It leads from + on the bass to the + on the mids. After replacing the coil for something bigger the bass went down. With the original coil the bass are audible but i hear some mids playing trough the bass.
Sorry, e3k, what you say about the bass going down does not make sense to me - perhaps it's a language difficulty.
I would have done a complete rewire to make sure all was in the right place.
That's not perfectionism, just good practice! 😎
So, what's your verdict - does that single speaker now sound good enough for your purposes?
I would have done a complete rewire to make sure all was in the right place.
That's not perfectionism, just good practice! 😎
So, what's your verdict - does that single speaker now sound good enough for your purposes?
no Galu there are no language difficulties. when i used the new coil in the 40year old schematics the bass speaker went almost silent.
i can do a complete rewiring as described in schematics in post #17. you are mentioning that you would skip coil L1. will it be ok? if not which impedance should i buy.
well the box is almost fine now but as i said i can here some mids from the bass cone which i think should not be there.
will report here once i rewire the box with the 3 parts i already have.
i can do a complete rewiring as described in schematics in post #17. you are mentioning that you would skip coil L1. will it be ok? if not which impedance should i buy.
well the box is almost fine now but as i said i can here some mids from the bass cone which i think should not be there.
will report here once i rewire the box with the 3 parts i already have.
Do not include a coil L1. Stick to the same format as the speaker's original crossover as shown in post #15 - i.e. two capacitors and one inductor.
You can use the schematic in post #17 as a guide to your rewiring, using 2.2uF in series with tweeter, 12uF in series with mid and 0.8mH in series with bass - but no L1.
Again, your description of the bass speaker going almost silent when you wire a 0.8mH coil in series with it is most puzzling. The purpose of choosing that value was to reduce the mids from the bass cone while letting the bass notes play loud - exactly as you wanted!
Let's see what happens after a proper rewire.
EDIT: To be sure you have bought the correct inductor, can you post a photo which clearly shows the value written on it?
You can use the schematic in post #17 as a guide to your rewiring, using 2.2uF in series with tweeter, 12uF in series with mid and 0.8mH in series with bass - but no L1.
Again, your description of the bass speaker going almost silent when you wire a 0.8mH coil in series with it is most puzzling. The purpose of choosing that value was to reduce the mids from the bass cone while letting the bass notes play loud - exactly as you wanted!
Let's see what happens after a proper rewire.
EDIT: To be sure you have bought the correct inductor, can you post a photo which clearly shows the value written on it?
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