A 3” can’t do much bass. I’ve not heard the TABAQ, but FF85wKeN or Alpair 5.2eN i have heard in Frugel-Horn Lite, and they do do a reasonable facsimile of the bass. They do the 1st harmonic really well which gives the illusion of real bass. They are limited in loudness, but for many application sthey will be fine. Most of the music is in the midrange and these are really good at that.
If one is missing bass, then time to add helper woofers (hmm, i wonder if i can fir a SF W14 ML-TL into an FH-lite deflector…).
dave
I doubt it, since you are intelligent. I was essentially pointing out that you were stating opinion as though it was universally applicable fact that everybody else was obliged to conform to.
Which is the issue. There is no fixed 'certain level of performance' unless it is clearly stated, and everybody else accepts it. Now, you and I both may have minimum standards, but they are personal, not obbligatory that every other bugger is forced to accept. I don't have such a high opinion of my own preferences (and I know you, as an intelligent person, feel the same way) that I think everybody else should unquestioningly accept them as Holy Writ. My issue is that you (inadvertently, I'm sure) did not write any kind of qualification in your initial statement. Most here know you did not imply your personal opinion should be accepted as the one true gospel, but many new members or readsers do not, hense caveats being necessary.
On that we are absolutely agreed, hence why I pointed that out in the first place.
I doubt anyone would, because they can't. The point is, not everybody has that requirement, and you didn't introduce any requirements or caveats into your above post, hence my pointing that fact out. Many people are happy with their TABAQs, and I for one would be the last to tell them they should not be happy with their speakers simply because I happen to have different priorities.
Not really, because ultimately, it doesn't matter one iota whether you can understand it or not. Or me, or anyone else. You / we just have to accept it. You, I, and some others don't find the aforementioned adequate, but many do. Which is fair enough. Their system, their priorities, their choice.
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Thumper's mother will be giving me a lecture no doubt...
I know you can be a grumpy fart, just like me. 
But perhaps it's better if we pick this up after your dentist is done putting your wallet out to pasture.
FYI, I use very little painkillers, and very rarely. I have a problem that one type alone just doesn't help, it's not about the dosage.
If I'm in a horribly painful state for some reason, 400mg ibuprofene and 500mg paracetamol together takes care of everything. Remember fluids, water in particular.
No need for anything stronger. Get some sleep mate. Wish you well.
But perhaps it's better if we pick this up after your dentist is done putting your wallet out to pasture.
FYI, I use very little painkillers, and very rarely. I have a problem that one type alone just doesn't help, it's not about the dosage.
If I'm in a horribly painful state for some reason, 400mg ibuprofene and 500mg paracetamol together takes care of everything. Remember fluids, water in particular.
No need for anything stronger. Get some sleep mate. Wish you well.
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It's hard for me to say. I used screws I happened to have 16 of lying around and drilled the holes by hand, initially comparing the screw shaft to drill size by eye. "This will do" and it did.
I used hex heads, as I was scared of putting a tool through the cone using a more ordinary driver. I could pull one out and measure it, but the drill hole size would be another empirical estimate. I usually test in a piece of scrap to see how tight the drive force into it is.
I used hex heads, as I was scared of putting a tool through the cone using a more ordinary driver. I could pull one out and measure it, but the drill hole size would be another empirical estimate. I usually test in a piece of scrap to see how tight the drive force into it is.
I generally find the 'datasheet' to be a good starting point;
One Pair | Recommended 15" Full Range Speaker Driver | Fast High and Scaled Sound | F-15 - Lii Audio, unique speaker, amplfier, quality and cost-saving parts for HiFi DIY
thank you. the problem is that i am at work and i dont have the drivers to measure tho hole size and i am trying to draw it and give it to the tech who will be running the waterjet machine. so i guess i can rephrase the question: does anyone know if a screw that is quarter inch in diameter fit into the holes for the mounting on the driver or should i make smaller holes?i guess the hols being a little too big is not the end of the world so in the meantime im gonna leave them to be quater inch in diameter. the screws that i have right now are quarter inch and the thread size is 20 which i believe is the most common thread size.
oh thats great. I totally missed that. i looked at that page and i used the dimensions for the driver from that page for my drawing but i did not see the hole diameter. thank you and my apologies.
here is the drawing:
each panel is 24 by 16 anf half inch thick. all hole diameters are quarter inch.
i havwe 4 plexiglass panels. 2 for the F-15s and two for eminance Alpha 15a's.
so excited.
here is the drawing:
each panel is 24 by 16 anf half inch thick. all hole diameters are quarter inch.
i havwe 4 plexiglass panels. 2 for the F-15s and two for eminance Alpha 15a's.
so excited.
when i opened the box i disnt see a separate gasket. maybe it is already on the driver? i dont know i've never done this before.
the unit that i received is like this picture:
if there needs to be a gasket around the rim in the back of the driver, i dont see it being in the box that i received. witohut it the metal would be sitting on the plaxiglass. seems less that ideal to me.
the unit that i received is like this picture:
if there needs to be a gasket around the rim in the back of the driver, i dont see it being in the box that i received. witohut it the metal would be sitting on the plaxiglass. seems less that ideal to me.
My F15s have a gasket on the front side, so they expect you to mount it to the rear surface of the baffle. I mounted mine to the front surface anyway, with no gasket between the driver rim flange and the baffle.
I recall one audiophile guy (in Boston) told me an easy to do audiophile improvement was to get rid of such gaskets. He claimed it gave the driver a more solid footing against the baffle and that he could hear the difference. All I ever bought from him was a book called "The Wood Effect". A whole book about absolute phase.
The miniDSP has arrived and it's up and running. I'm going to play on a two way in the 250Hz range, see if I can relieve the top amp from having to supply any bass current - and the F15 from having to move its cone in response to anything below there.
I've read some people dont like the sound of the miniDSP. I wonder if their use of electrolytics for coupling both in and out has something to do with it? I'd like to go I2S into it (eventually), which would eliminate the input caps (no A/D...) and I'm unsure if that's possible from the USB DAC I already have. I have a couple USB to I2S boards for this in my ebay watch list...
I've ordered some caps (Meme - Buy a DSP to eliminate having to buy capacitors. Have to buy some anyway.) to replace the stock as built. I'll probably bypass the existing caps with a wire, leaving them intact, and put the new caps in an external fixture. That way I can more easily experiment with "rolling" caps at least at the input and top amp output. Ultimately I'd like a full digital path into the miniDSP with better grade / sound coupling capacitors for all the outputs.
Anything else this unit does wrong sound-wise, that I, uh, could do anything about? I suppose a better +5V source supply is in order, so the USB PC cable can be disconnected when not programming it. Thanks.
I recall one audiophile guy (in Boston) told me an easy to do audiophile improvement was to get rid of such gaskets. He claimed it gave the driver a more solid footing against the baffle and that he could hear the difference. All I ever bought from him was a book called "The Wood Effect". A whole book about absolute phase.
The miniDSP has arrived and it's up and running. I'm going to play on a two way in the 250Hz range, see if I can relieve the top amp from having to supply any bass current - and the F15 from having to move its cone in response to anything below there.
I've read some people dont like the sound of the miniDSP. I wonder if their use of electrolytics for coupling both in and out has something to do with it? I'd like to go I2S into it (eventually), which would eliminate the input caps (no A/D...) and I'm unsure if that's possible from the USB DAC I already have. I have a couple USB to I2S boards for this in my ebay watch list...
I've ordered some caps (Meme - Buy a DSP to eliminate having to buy capacitors. Have to buy some anyway.) to replace the stock as built. I'll probably bypass the existing caps with a wire, leaving them intact, and put the new caps in an external fixture. That way I can more easily experiment with "rolling" caps at least at the input and top amp output. Ultimately I'd like a full digital path into the miniDSP with better grade / sound coupling capacitors for all the outputs.
Anything else this unit does wrong sound-wise, that I, uh, could do anything about? I suppose a better +5V source supply is in order, so the USB PC cable can be disconnected when not programming it. Thanks.
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I2S is the way.... need a short cable
you can use
Pi4 with superb hw from Something cool for Raspberry Pi/ODROID: I2S/DSD isolator HAT with native DSD decoder
you can use
Pi4 with superb hw from Something cool for Raspberry Pi/ODROID: I2S/DSD isolator HAT with native DSD decoder