@ Gary Thank you sir.
@ Al Depending on what case/face you have... On the Yarra the bushing comes through the whole enough that it makes contact with the rear of the knob before it can touch the face. Depending on face thickness, and knob choice, this may or may not be true. I used the Yarra case and sized specifically for that face thickness. Since the bushing is proud, it prevents end-play and prevents unwanted inward/rearward pressure on the switch and also prevents those scratches you mention. If you use two shaft connectors, one for the joining and one up against the shoulder of the bushing, you also prevent unwanted switch pressure outward. Basically, we alleviate all forward/reverse pressure while switching, take up any slop, smooth the contact from the shaft, for a great feel with no side, or end play whatsoever.
@ Harry Yes, I have seen that done and it works well. It will prevent the mar/scratch, and also helps a bit with rearward end pressure, but not to the same degree, and does not help with outward end pressure/play.
We all spend a lot of time on these projects and are very gentle with them, so is this really needed? I will leave that up to you as builders.
JT
@ Al Depending on what case/face you have... On the Yarra the bushing comes through the whole enough that it makes contact with the rear of the knob before it can touch the face. Depending on face thickness, and knob choice, this may or may not be true. I used the Yarra case and sized specifically for that face thickness. Since the bushing is proud, it prevents end-play and prevents unwanted inward/rearward pressure on the switch and also prevents those scratches you mention. If you use two shaft connectors, one for the joining and one up against the shoulder of the bushing, you also prevent unwanted switch pressure outward. Basically, we alleviate all forward/reverse pressure while switching, take up any slop, smooth the contact from the shaft, for a great feel with no side, or end play whatsoever.
@ Harry Yes, I have seen that done and it works well. It will prevent the mar/scratch, and also helps a bit with rearward end pressure, but not to the same degree, and does not help with outward end pressure/play.
We all spend a lot of time on these projects and are very gentle with them, so is this really needed? I will leave that up to you as builders.
JT
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The fit looks great Thompsontech. Looks like you have a half dozen of these shafts and collars/bushings. Got a spare?
Yup, sure do... you will need to order the couplers though. I don't have any of those.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0159WOA4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PM me with an address and I'll send ya out a shaft and bushing.
Couple of new additions
Hi all,
Since the holidays have been so relaxing, I thought I would get the Korg 6P1 DBs installed and tested in the Yarra. Listening to Steely Dan as I write this and all appears well. As usual, sound is crisp, clear and quiet! Adjusted the plate voltage to 12.0 and secure them in place. Fired it up and no magic smoke. They glow so pretty. It's still on my bench, but will put it into my system tomorrow to hear how sounds in the real environment with a better amp and speakers.
The glare on the pics is due to the custom plexi-glass top.
Happy New Year to everyone.
Hi all,
Since the holidays have been so relaxing, I thought I would get the Korg 6P1 DBs installed and tested in the Yarra. Listening to Steely Dan as I write this and all appears well. As usual, sound is crisp, clear and quiet! Adjusted the plate voltage to 12.0 and secure them in place. Fired it up and no magic smoke.
They glow so pretty. It's still on my bench, but will put it into my system tomorrow to hear how sounds in the real environment with a better amp and speakers.The glare on the pics is due to the custom plexi-glass top.
Happy New Year to everyone.
Attachments
@ red Nice work, very clean!
@ X this this reminds me of something I wanted to talk about with you and JP. I didn't use the riser for the headphone, but if one wants to go all audiophile and put in just two large caps. I mounted them horizontal, that riser would have been in the way if I mounted it. If fact, I did mount it and removed it for being in the way.
Looking at the traces on the board, it doesn't look like moving it a bit down and more toward the center would be an issue as that's the way the traces go anyway. Maybe JP, could have a look and if it's not too much work, he could move that in the layout for future runs?
JT
@ X this this reminds me of something I wanted to talk about with you and JP. I didn't use the riser for the headphone, but if one wants to go all audiophile and put in just two large caps. I mounted them horizontal, that riser would have been in the way if I mounted it. If fact, I did mount it and removed it for being in the way.
Looking at the traces on the board, it doesn't look like moving it a bit down and more toward the center would be an issue as that's the way the traces go anyway. Maybe JP, could have a look and if it's not too much work, he could move that in the layout for future runs?
JT
Sweet work redjr! I run my Yarra topless because I like peeking at the goodies inside, I should do what you did with the plexiglass
And as a side benefit it keeps the dust out.
Happy New Year as well!!
I use Front Panel Express (FPE) for most all panels I get customized for holes, odd-sized opening, and lettering. Usually I send them the panels that came with the enclosure.
In this case, I chose to use their material called Perspex (essentially plexi-glass). You can get it in 3 thicknesses IIRC. The attached file is my FPE file spec, for the top plate (3mm thickness), ready for uploading to their site. When it came it fit perfectly. This is the perfect project to showcase the Yarra with the Korg babies glowing a nice blue.
In retrospect, I would have added a few slots for heat to escape, but I don't think that will be a problem. Feel free to copy the spec and modify accordingly to your needs.
FPE has customized my panels for a number of projects over the past few years, and I've never had an issue. Turn-around time is about 2 weeks including shipping back to you. Enjoy.
Rick
Hi Redjr,
Thanks for the FPE spec file that will make it easier for others to go topless, err... I mean see-through on the Yarra. This is definitely one preamp where you want to see the insides. For the WB18 boards, it will help to stabilize the temps and reduce drafts that might cause DC offset drift.
Thanks for the FPE spec file that will make it easier for others to go topless, err... I mean see-through on the Yarra. This is definitely one preamp where you want to see the insides. For the WB18 boards, it will help to stabilize the temps and reduce drafts that might cause DC offset drift.
No, I don’t have any. I am sadly all out of Yarra boards and only have one built but two cases. I would like to make more boards made but will need some more interest for a second group but if there is any interest. Will need at least 10 boards if interest to make it work. I need one and I know of one other person who needs one.