I use this and a repair guy I know uses this. Good enough that 10-20 years later, things are still fine.
does not harden, does not go bad, does not break down foam or cones, works with poly cones and nitrile surrounds, etc...and sticks like snot on a screen door.
does not harden, does not go bad, does not break down foam or cones, works with poly cones and nitrile surrounds, etc...and sticks like snot on a screen door.
I have a pair Philips FB-815 and I need to re foam woofer and mid-range in both.
The link above does not seem to have Philips parts, is there any other alternatives in Europe?
This white carpenters glue is holding tenths of kilos unmovable, it can not fail because in the specific application all the motion is made by the foam.
Although it is a reasonable concern that later, when the new surround finally expires, then what? You might have big blobs of unremovable glue to work around. It might be grim.
From what I have read the new surround are made by advanced material than what was used in 90s.
Basically any glue that gets flatted becomes a flat thin layer, some people add too much of it.
Just a layer of glue over the one side is enough.
Basically any glue that gets flatted becomes a flat thin layer, some people add too much of it.
Just a layer of glue over the one side is enough.
Send them an email. They don't advertise all their foams, so may have something that fits.
If not audiofriends may have something that will fit.
It bonds paper like no tomorrow, or like snot on a screen door that was my point. Just make sure you get your surround job right the first time or your screwed. Youll tear the cones trying to get the surround off. I found it doesn't stick to poly as well as others do, poly is not porous and white glue doesn't bond well to it. I quit using the white stuff a long time ago.
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I am posting this message as feedback after almost 16 months after repairing my speakers with audiofriends foam surrounds KIT.
The speakers sounds like new, and all my foam surrounds are still like new regarding stability of their material (chemical composition).
Remaining glue in the plastic box this dried completely after some months in storage and this transformed as to be dry silicon but always more flexible than what regular silicon for sealing windows become after drying.
I am now convinced that there is small secrets about the actual chemical composition of this glue that connects foam with paper.
And the ones who are aware of them, they do not share them in public.
The speakers sounds like new, and all my foam surrounds are still like new regarding stability of their material (chemical composition).
Remaining glue in the plastic box this dried completely after some months in storage and this transformed as to be dry silicon but always more flexible than what regular silicon for sealing windows become after drying.
I am now convinced that there is small secrets about the actual chemical composition of this glue that connects foam with paper.
And the ones who are aware of them, they do not share them in public.
The great glue debate. Ive tried just about everything. If you can source the stuff the factory uses your golden, the black liquid tar looking stuff. A few places carry it. Do it nice not twice 😀
Kiriakos I run about a 3mm round bead for say 6.5 sized surrounds and flatten it out. I like it so it juuust starts creeping out at the edges once the surround lip is flattened down. Right a little goes a long way and looks a lot cleaner too.
Kiriakos I run about a 3mm round bead for say 6.5 sized surrounds and flatten it out. I like it so it juuust starts creeping out at the edges once the surround lip is flattened down. Right a little goes a long way and looks a lot cleaner too.
This KIT which I have use, this was including a small painting brush, and I applied the glue by creating a flat layer in both ends of the materials.
In the end I did not had flatten it out.
This glue seems white when is liquid, but when it active chemistry this evaporates, the glue gets a semi transparent dark yellow color.
And this makes it invisible over a black carton cone .
I have both used water based adhesives (think PVA carpenter's glue) and solvent based contact cement with good results.
The paper/cardboard cone surface is no problem, it takes any of them with excellent adhesion, is porous so evaporation is fine and the adhesive can "catch" inside the pores, does not deform , fine.
Now the foam surface is non porous (nowhere near the paper , that is) , does not soak in the water based adhesive so *looks* like it will "stick" poorly, yet I have never ever had any later separation.
Foam does absorb and distorts a lot with contact cement solvents (toluene/xylene/benzene family) but I have applied and flattened a bead all around the edge, waited some 15 minutes until most solvents evaporate, foam recovers original shape yet adhesive is still tacky and sticks forever to a similar but fresher (5 minutes old instead of 15/20) bead around cone edge.
Haven't tried yet "green/ecological" toluene free contact adhesives, but they should work fine, strongest adhesion but without foam deformation.
If somebody tries this, please post results 🙂
The paper/cardboard cone surface is no problem, it takes any of them with excellent adhesion, is porous so evaporation is fine and the adhesive can "catch" inside the pores, does not deform , fine.
Now the foam surface is non porous (nowhere near the paper , that is) , does not soak in the water based adhesive so *looks* like it will "stick" poorly, yet I have never ever had any later separation.
Foam does absorb and distorts a lot with contact cement solvents (toluene/xylene/benzene family) but I have applied and flattened a bead all around the edge, waited some 15 minutes until most solvents evaporate, foam recovers original shape yet adhesive is still tacky and sticks forever to a similar but fresher (5 minutes old instead of 15/20) bead around cone edge.
Haven't tried yet "green/ecological" toluene free contact adhesives, but they should work fine, strongest adhesion but without foam deformation.
If somebody tries this, please post results 🙂
I don't know what the conclusion was to this thread, but I am looking to glue surrounds to a particularly troublesome speaker. I don't know why but these are somehow my worst nightmares.
The 4" ones that are in the linaeum tweeter equipped RCA bookshelves - RCA 40-5007.
The speaker cones are plastic/PVC etc. The surrounds I am using are rubber.
Can someone suggest the right glue, and I wont be buying any of these kits, I have literally a 100 speakers to do, I have aleenes that works great for paper. It goes on white and dries clear. But it seems to not glue plastic/rubber and worse yet, when its failed, its near impossible to remove, it attains super strength in free air, never when in pressure.
Thanks.
Srinath.
The 4" ones that are in the linaeum tweeter equipped RCA bookshelves - RCA 40-5007.
The speaker cones are plastic/PVC etc. The surrounds I am using are rubber.
Can someone suggest the right glue, and I wont be buying any of these kits, I have literally a 100 speakers to do, I have aleenes that works great for paper. It goes on white and dries clear. But it seems to not glue plastic/rubber and worse yet, when its failed, its near impossible to remove, it attains super strength in free air, never when in pressure.
Thanks.
Srinath.
How about the speaker glue from PE Parts Express Speaker Repair Glue 1 oz. Bottle
I haven't use the PE glue but have used the amber colored one found here 1oz Bottle Professional Speaker Adhesive For Foam Surround, Speaker Cone,Gaskets 653753247880 | eBay
I haven't use the PE glue but have used the amber colored one found here 1oz Bottle Professional Speaker Adhesive For Foam Surround, Speaker Cone,Gaskets 653753247880 | eBay
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The right glue is rubber based glue capable of bonding to PP/PE. I'd ask 3M for further advice.
edit: or try asking around about a polyurethane clear adhesive
edit: or try asking around about a polyurethane clear adhesive
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That parts express one isn't for rubber/plastic combination, they do have a rubber specific one but its black, and I need one that would dry clear.
More so, I am going to go broke buying these 1oz at a time and I cant even imagine the weeks long wait and the shipping costs each time, cos I cant plump the order to 100 each time, that will get expensive real real fast.
Cool.
Srinath.
More so, I am going to go broke buying these 1oz at a time and I cant even imagine the weeks long wait and the shipping costs each time, cos I cant plump the order to 100 each time, that will get expensive real real fast.
Cool.
Srinath.
Not sure why would you worry too much about colour.
I´d think proper adhesion comes first.
And in general, rubber specific adhesives tend to be black, since they are often loaded with finely ground rubber particles, think ground car tyres.
Not "rubber cement" which as some kind of synthetic neoprene which is yellowish or whitish/transparent.
I´d think proper adhesion comes first.
And in general, rubber specific adhesives tend to be black, since they are often loaded with finely ground rubber particles, think ground car tyres.
Not "rubber cement" which as some kind of synthetic neoprene which is yellowish or whitish/transparent.
Late to the thread but I just found that the "W" accordion pleat paper surrounds in 2 of my 15" woofers have been damaged
What generally happens to parameters when a paper surround is replaced by foam? These were cheap woofers and the only affordable 15" surrounds I have found are red foam ones meant for older CV woofers
Drivers have been in storage for over 4 years and I only just found the damage
What generally happens to parameters when a paper surround is replaced by foam? These were cheap woofers and the only affordable 15" surrounds I have found are red foam ones meant for older CV woofers
Drivers have been in storage for over 4 years and I only just found the damage
Paper to foam changes the flexibility a lot, paper to accordion cloth can be a lot better, some of those are pretty stiff, and I have on occasion seen someone make a paper surround, after all, you can cut it out of a beer carton. Which after drinking the contents of said carton always seems like a great idea.
Cool.
Srinath.
Cool.
Srinath.
White and grey woofers
Some of these woofers are white, grey or have yellow and black checkered pattern, and any mistake will be immediately obvious unless you cleam up before it sets. A clear drying glue helps a lot in that situation.
Cool.
Srinath.
Some of these woofers are white, grey or have yellow and black checkered pattern, and any mistake will be immediately obvious unless you cleam up before it sets. A clear drying glue helps a lot in that situation.
Cool.
Srinath.