Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator

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diamonddust

Member
Joined 2015
Good evening,
Finally I've got around and decided to start the assembly of one ultrabib to power right now a Allo Kali + Piano 2.1 stack. Later I'm thinking to use the 3x ultrabib for a Soekris dam1921
I got the 2x +5V and a -5v Kit from teabag and gathering the rest of the components as BOM .
The total CCmA for the Allo Stack is 170mA(+100 mA extra) at 5V, based on your manual I'm planning to use a 2 Ohm R1.
Which resistor type will be more suitable for R1 between this 3 (cheaper to expensive):
Vishay Dale AC03000002008JAC00
Vishay Dale RS02B2R000FE70
Vishay Dale ALSR032R000FE12

I will use a Talema 35VA 9VAC dual secondaries power transformer.

On the Ultrabib build manual the last sentence:
For VA choose transformers with three times the power of your CCmA*ACV across all their utilized secondaries. A 50VA toroidal transfo for up to +/- 300mA CC should suffice.
Click to expand...
it's a bit confusing, may I ask you the meaning?

thanks
 
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Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
The second and the third resistors in your list are better than the first and equivalent between them.

That sentence means multiply the secondary(s) voltage times your constant current setting in the reg(s) to find delivered power and choose VA at three times that figure for having a rather cool running transformer.

diamonddust said:
I will use a Talema 35VA 9VAC dual secondaries power transformer.
Click to expand...

35VA will be good because its for 9VAC and the power delivery will be moderate with 300mA current setting. The 50VA general recommendation is for covering the full voltage range capability of the regs which will naturally pull more power for same current settings. Up to 33VAC secondaries for 300mA current limit setting per polarity in a dual reg.
 
selfy

selfy

Member
Joined 2009
Hi, diamonddust! My personal experience is that R1 is crucial for the “sound” signature of the regulator. I use Mills MRA05 for best results. As a cheaper, but excellent sounding option I would recommend Ohmite AG 5W. However the Ohmites are rather big but I think you can still fit them on the board.
 
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diamonddust

Member
Joined 2015
Thanks Salas for the heads-up, for sinking M1 and M2 I ordered this Aavid 513102B02500G heatsink. I will try to post some picture when complete.

selfy said:
I use Mills MRA05 for best results. As a cheaper, but excellent sounding option I would recommend Ohmite AG 5W
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Thanks Selfy ;-) I notice on the latest post on the dam1941 thread about the MRA05 but are not easy to find and I have a slightly bigger C1 (35mm) and was looking for something smaller, I got the Vishay Dale RS02B2R000FE70
 
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Blitz

Member
Joined 2002
Salas said:
For the C1 power tank and C2 Vref filter you may use whatever you like but for C3 there are rules else you will make it oscillate. Read the 100kHz ESR and capacitance range notes on the positive schematic. There is an impedance at 100kHz column in some high spec electrolytic types datasheets like the Pana FM etc. Those figures are usually reliable. I found them close when testing at 100kHz with the LCR Meter. So you don't strictly have to verify but simply choose from the datasheet. When the 100kHz permitted impedance range is met (0.12R-0.22R) choose the lower uF value model that falls in range. No more than 100uF though regarding its capacitance. There are also alternative lead spacing pads for C2 (7.5mm 5mm) & C3 (5mm 3.5mm). Unspecified for 100kHz impedance C3 capacitor types must be measured on 100kHz LCR for ESR first.

In the previous post's photo you can see it with EPCOS power tanks (4700uF/35V) and Panasonic FM C2 (470uF/25V) C3 (100uF 35V). Also in post's #14 second photo. C2 can be up to 16mm diameter and C3 up to 10mm diameter and there is some extra space around them also. Placed in a way that if you will mount the M2 MOSFET vertically they will not obstruct a screwdriver to fix it.

Nice for low profile in height caps combo. Robust for working hours spec also. I listened to it in the Soekris. Very nice. But when with Nichicon Gold Tune tanks and Nichicon ES (BP) non polars in later test it was simply better resolving and more melodic. Given the fact that the UltraBiB needs consume little spare current so it does not need (not even likes) Hot-Rod current setting, the M2's dissipation is low enough not to create high heat in C2 C3 vicinity. 85C "for audio" caps will also have a good life there. In my opinion the Nichicon ES (BP) Muse is a great affordable line of "audio" capacitors. Dead on for values and with very low DF & ESR in test. In first post's photo you can also see the Gold Tune but with C2 C3 Nichicon KZ Muse.
Click to expand...

May I ask if this is still your verdict on best sounding Cap choices ?

Currently I use Mundorf lytic first, than Silmic, than FG. Overall very warm sounding, vermusical, but as well a bit veiled...so, if there is a more transparent combination, I would like to try it....

I anyone using Kaisei ? Cerafines ?

CAn you please specify on which position your best recommendation are ?
 
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Blitz said:
May I ask if this is still your verdict on best sounding Cap choices ?

Currently I use Mundorf lytic first, than Silmic, than FG. Overall very warm sounding, vermusical, but as well a bit veiled...so, if there is a more transparent combination, I would like to try it....

I anyone using Kaisei ? Cerafines ?

CAn you please specify on which position your best recommendation are ?
Click to expand...

I encourage the users to choose whatever they like best for capacitors in the context of their own applications and taste, only to watch that the C3 choice does not provoke oscillation
 
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
People here perform so many applications that I can't possibly beat the communal experience for parts selection. The caps are the icing on the cake, not the cake itself. I offered the cake recipe, please decorate.

MKP caps have too little high frequency impedance. If you put one for C3 it is going to oscillate. Done that during development. If you got an oscilloscope its easy to probe the rail output and confirm.
 
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
ES are not PSU ripple caps, they are very low THD bipolar signal caps. The KZ are multipurpose polar caps. Because we use them for noise filtering and termination in this reg, ripple current ability does not matter. What AC current they run is noise current. In my experience from signal path tests both are subjectively very good. The ES maybe bit smooth and the KZ maybe bit lively.
 
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
I made a dimensions picture for you guys (also added in post#1)
 

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Tea-Bag

Tea-Bag

Member
Joined 2006
Paid Member
Joca said:
i have 2 BIB with positive and negative reg's. I have two toroidal transformers
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Although I did this with two DCB1 boards ---
So I connected the grounds of both boards+/- at the G of the signal board (yours would be BA3.) Although jumpering at the UBIB boards would likely yield same results.
I kept he L/R signal completely separate. I did tie all the Signal ground inputs all together however.

If there is any signal hum, you could them of course tie the channels with a common ground if that occurs.
 
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