Yes, but i assume this experiment is with the big BG-N and not with the original caps, right? I am a bit worried removing through hole components from multilayer boards, my vacuum is a weak ch pos which only works when no ground plane is involved.
Many thanks for your efforts!
Mine too. Something to do with being an old geezer in my case. These are really easy to remove: the 3-pin sot23
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I will do more tests with regular caps: Silmics, Nichicon, etc, and compare it again to original caps.
I just placed some 35uF Silmics and if not for a bit coarse sound and sibilances they sound quite decent. The main point here though was trying them with ceramics and I can certainly say that I don’t like those ceramics: they affect immediacy and ambiance, also adding some unwanted coloration.
Removal of those ceramics won’t be that obvious with the original 1000uF polymers, as in some way, such large caps also mask finer aspects of sound, but with smaller electrolytic it is quite noticeable (to me).
I got the dam1921 this week and just have it setup for singing. Since I didn't notice that Soren has new dam19xx product so I missed the early bird and Black Friday promotions and I didn't buy the extra bare PCBs. I need to build my own Display Board dsp1971 circuit.
I read the manual but I still can't find the solution of questions about the remote control:
1. What remote control can I use?
2. How to configure the keys on the remote control?
3. What are the available keys?
I read the manual but I still can't find the solution of questions about the remote control:
1. What remote control can I use?
2. How to configure the keys on the remote control?
3. What are the available keys?
Thanks.
I have the 1st gen apple remote, is it ok?
Or I need to buy the latest one?
Yes, it is ok. I use a Logitech set to emulate various gens Apple and they all work the same. Sadly, the only reason i wanted a remote was switching the filters but for some reason this is not implemented.
The dam19x1 manual have the horizontal positions, you can take hole sizes and vertical positions from above drawing, they use same parts.
Yes, I have a double USB cable AB, (data + / GND / -) plus an A (+ U / GND) connector that is powered by a battery. It's a clearly audible difference in favor of the battery. It depends on how good the power is in the PC.
I am following Peter & Peter's Path...changed the onboard psu cap 4700uF to 3300uF Silmic and de-soldered the ceramics and the mosfets.
The Silmic needs to cook in now...this takes a bit time usually.
I have left the 1000uF in for the moment as I had no more time today...I plan to solder in an adapter which allows me to switch caps fast without soldering.
My first impression is that treble seems to be not as fast anymore, but the the overal presentation is more consistent from a tone aspect, more natural fitting together. The change is not huge, more subtle, but important as Peter said...good description actually...there is a certain weirdness / technical presentation gone I would say.
So, yes, it influences the sound and will become intersting to find the winning cap here. Besides many MkPs I can try, I ordered some bipolar cerafines and silmics...oscons as well. No BG for me...way too expensive, sorry.
The Silmic needs to cook in now...this takes a bit time usually.
I have left the 1000uF in for the moment as I had no more time today...I plan to solder in an adapter which allows me to switch caps fast without soldering.
My first impression is that treble seems to be not as fast anymore, but the the overal presentation is more consistent from a tone aspect, more natural fitting together. The change is not huge, more subtle, but important as Peter said...good description actually...there is a certain weirdness / technical presentation gone I would say.
So, yes, it influences the sound and will become intersting to find the winning cap here. Besides many MkPs I can try, I ordered some bipolar cerafines and silmics...oscons as well. No BG for me...way too expensive, sorry.
Over the weekend I was experimenting with Nichicon FG and I must say that they are definitely better choice then Silmics here, they just sound right and very natural. They actually sounded so good, that I didn’t feel the need to try other caps I had on hand. First I tried 100uf and they were fine. Then I added 0.01/63V ERO 1830. The highs became softer but overall I thought that it was less natural, sort of manipulated sound and I left 100uf caps alone. I also tried 10uF FG caps and they sounded faster, a bit thinner, but with more presence. I would have a hard choice choosing here one value over another. I also had to do many comparisons to see if BGs are actually better here. FG caps seem to be a bit more dry sounding, but also less coloured. BGs have this certain flavour that makes sounds fuller and more pleasing, although somewhat less clean. I eventually settled back on BGs, with their ‘tonal density’ but I could live with Nichicon FGs without any problem.
So if anybody wants to experiment here, I suggest to remove all those ceramics and 1000uF polymer caps and put there FG 100/25. It should be a good start.
So if anybody wants to experiment here, I suggest to remove all those ceramics and 1000uF polymer caps and put there FG 100/25. It should be a good start.
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Well...with the right de soldering equipment everything is quiet easy and nice...you can put stuff back in place if that is your desire...even the elcos where a breeze...the smd stuff with air soldering station as well...only the used solder has a higher than normal melting point, needed to do this a liitle hotter than normal.
Got a small improvement by supplying +5v from a dedicated small transformer. My PC uses linear supplies, so perhaps the +5v line is clean anyway.
How hard is to desolder the polymer caps? Specifically the side which goes to the ground plane.
Blew up my soldering station and will be stuck for the next week or so with a kiddie Hakko 888. Should i rather wait?
PD: from all the cheap caps the FG have always been my favourite. You only realise how coloured they are once you step up to something like Kaisei. But it's a colour i can easily live with.
How hard is to desolder the polymer caps? Specifically the side which goes to the ground plane.
Blew up my soldering station and will be stuck for the next week or so with a kiddie Hakko 888. Should i rather wait?
PD: from all the cheap caps the FG have always been my favourite. You only realise how coloured they are once you step up to something like Kaisei. But it's a colour i can easily live with.
