I recommend you first replace it with any handy red LED to see if that solves the problem. Or there are other problems we will look for. Let me know. When all fixed, ask Tea for a spare or two to restore originality.
Sounds good, thank you
I recommend you first replace it with any handy red LED to see if that solves the problem. Or there are other problems we will look for. Let me know. When all fixed, ask Tea for a spare or two to restore originality.
I got the LED replaced which worked, got it biased and tested. It sounds amazing! I am so pleased with it, thank you so much for the design and support.
Congrats!
Tell us a bit about the TT configuration it works with, also upload a photo of the build if you may.

Tell us a bit about the TT configuration it works with, also upload a photo of the build if you may.
Salas: for the MC step up in the original Nfet phono do I need to change any resistor values (R1?) when using 8.2mA jfets?
Is it OK to use the MM Nfet PSU raw DC to feed the MC step up module?
I will use 7809 or LM317 after MM stage supply. Voltage drop will be a lot, but current will be low. Or better to use separate transformer?
Attachments
Try the raw source but put an RC cell in-between with enough R. Does ripple eating also except sharing the drop & some heat.
Congrats!![]()
Tell us a bit about the TT configuration it works with, also upload a photo of the build if you may.
I am currently using just a stock Project Debut Carbon with the Ortofon Red. I will likely bump up the specs a little but honestly with this pre-amp it is sounding really good to me right now.
DIY is taking over my stereo! 😀
ACA, B1 and Salas PhonoPreamp plus the restored lascalas.
Thank you Salas, Teabag, 6L6 and Mr Pass for all the help!
You are welcome.
Nicely cooperating pieces. Nice horn speakers too. Maybe a Denon DL-110 sometime in the future. Transducers matter most.
Nicely cooperating pieces. Nice horn speakers too. Maybe a Denon DL-110 sometime in the future. Transducers matter most.
You are welcome.
Nicely cooperating pieces. Nice horn speakers too. Maybe a Denon DL-110 sometime in the future. Transducers matter most.
Thanks! The Denon DL-110 looks great. Would I have to make many changes to my new Salas preamp? It looks like it is pretty high output and might just work with the current configuration.
Works either with 40dB or 43dB gain setting. Depending on the total gain of the full chain of components, including the loudspeakers sensitivity, it may feel like it could use the extra 3dB or not. See about the Nagaoka MP-150 as well.
Is it better to get a single 2x36V transformer or two 2x18V transformers for the phono preamp?
Is it better to get a single 2x36V transformer or two 2x18V transformers for the phono preamp?
You can still do a good job with single core 32V+32V like this one: Antek AS-0532
Because we have learned that it will give circa 45V rectified DC on average American mains. Each 32V secondary to each raw DC board's AC input.
Works either with 40dB or 43dB gain setting. Depending on the total gain of the full chain of components, including the loudspeakers sensitivity, it may feel like it could use the extra 3dB or not. See about the Nagaoka MP-150 as well.
awesome, thanks for the recommendations! a new cart just made my shortlist of upgrades, probably the denon dl-110.
That was really fun to watch 😀 his enthusiasm is infectious
It has two practical advantages over the Denon. Higher output and a replaceable stylus. High output is good on high sens speakers. Not to crank the phono gain or the vol pot and bring up the system's noise floor. In general the DL-110 is velvety, the MP-150 is heftier sounding and more resolving.
Yet another successful Simplistic NJFET RIAA build with PSU in a separate box connected via umbilical . Will try the Ultra BIB later when time permits. Everything went well and have essentially no hum unless I put my ears to the speakers. I have it configured for approx 40db with a 3440 MC cinemag step up for my DL103r. ...... have not played with loading resistors yet and I have other carts to play with as well (AT33Sa and SPu Meister Silver mkii). TT is a Garrard 401, Grovemaster arm, preamp is Salas 6v6 and speakers are onken altec 414 with altec 802's crossed at 3000 if memory serves.
My system has been down for about 2 years as "life" got in the way and just fired it up today. The system looks ugly as sin but it sounds really great. I and am super happy the hum is not there as was the case in my DIY Peter Daniels the Phono-Stage 47-phonoclone. Never could get that one right ... must have done something wrong....oh well.
One thing I have noticed is that I get feed-back when volume is high. Never had that before... will investigate more later. Lots of nice detail and tone I really notice the difference with good and bad recordings. I'm sure things will get even better when I play more music and the electronics settle after being off for so long.
A big thank you to Salas and Tea-Bag for making this possible.
I have one more month to listen to records before the basement gets re-done and i have to dismantle and remove the stereo until it is finished and remodeled. That will take a lot of time.
Hans Theessink & Terry Evans Feat. Ry Cooder – Delta Time sounds phenominal.
My system has been down for about 2 years as "life" got in the way and just fired it up today. The system looks ugly as sin but it sounds really great. I and am super happy the hum is not there as was the case in my DIY Peter Daniels the Phono-Stage 47-phonoclone. Never could get that one right ... must have done something wrong....oh well.
One thing I have noticed is that I get feed-back when volume is high. Never had that before... will investigate more later. Lots of nice detail and tone I really notice the difference with good and bad recordings. I'm sure things will get even better when I play more music and the electronics settle after being off for so long.
A big thank you to Salas and Tea-Bag for making this possible.
I have one more month to listen to records before the basement gets re-done and i have to dismantle and remove the stereo until it is finished and remodeled. That will take a lot of time.
Hans Theessink & Terry Evans Feat. Ry Cooder – Delta Time sounds phenominal.
Hey, congratulations! What value is the 6V6's input pot, in other words its input impedance? Maybe the phono's output caps could be selected in smaller value for making a better subsonic filter to the line preamp. Big sensitive speakers can seriously vibrate the space. Especially when standing waves are present. The 6V6 which is microphonic enough or the TT's arm could probably pick that. Nice to know it plays well in your system. Ugly looking lovely sounding system pics are as welcome as any by the way 😀
Thanks Salas. I'm pretty sure the 6v6 input is 100K .. will double check. I've changed the supports for the turntable and speakers and it is helping a lot. I will also look into re-arranging items on my rather large table.... easy stuff first.... really liking the sound and if I can I don't want to change anything.....yet ... famous last words
You guys are fantastic.
You guys are fantastic.
Hi Salas,
After a long languishing in doing other things, I started putting your shunts in place on one of my boards, instead of using the GRLVs I had been using. I don't have my raw PSU built yet, so after populating one of the boards, fired it up with my bench supply. Everything looked OK, but the highest I could get the Rail + was around 34.3V, even with input at ~55Vdc. TP1-TP2 looked fine at 3.73 Vdc (didn't try to adjust).
Any thoughts as to why the Rail was that low? The 2SK117s are all around Idss 3.54mA or so, the BC550Cs (for both boards) had an hFe of ~648 on a cheapo DMM. Diode string on the shunt was spot on at 5.804 Vdc.
Also, in getting parts for the raw PSU, is there any problem in using metal oxide resistors for the higher wattage stuff (10K, 1R)?
Thanks,
Chris
After a long languishing in doing other things, I started putting your shunts in place on one of my boards, instead of using the GRLVs I had been using. I don't have my raw PSU built yet, so after populating one of the boards, fired it up with my bench supply. Everything looked OK, but the highest I could get the Rail + was around 34.3V, even with input at ~55Vdc. TP1-TP2 looked fine at 3.73 Vdc (didn't try to adjust).
Any thoughts as to why the Rail was that low? The 2SK117s are all around Idss 3.54mA or so, the BC550Cs (for both boards) had an hFe of ~648 on a cheapo DMM. Diode string on the shunt was spot on at 5.804 Vdc.
Also, in getting parts for the raw PSU, is there any problem in using metal oxide resistors for the higher wattage stuff (10K, 1R)?
Thanks,
Chris
-MOX are alright there.
-Your Q3x IDSS is not enough for higher Vout (~20% lower than the 10V IDSS value when for VDS=VbeQ4x) is the cause.
-Correct TP1-TP2 is the goal nonetheless. For higher Vout adjust ceiling in a situation, simply increase R3x value. Say by 1k.
-Don't input >>50V DC to the regs. You expose Q2x to danger in that way, beyond creating extra dissipation on Q1x to sink.
-Your Q3x IDSS is not enough for higher Vout (~20% lower than the 10V IDSS value when for VDS=VbeQ4x) is the cause.
-Correct TP1-TP2 is the goal nonetheless. For higher Vout adjust ceiling in a situation, simply increase R3x value. Say by 1k.
-Don't input >>50V DC to the regs. You expose Q2x to danger in that way, beyond creating extra dissipation on Q1x to sink.
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