Your soldering iron is the proper size (wattage) for working on the F5 boards.
Your technique needs tuning(!). Use the iron to heat both the pad and the component lead, before you attempt to run solder to the joint. The solder (once properly heated) should flow quickly to create a smooth bead on the PCB pad. For esthetics (and other reasons), it's best to flow the solder to cover the entire "unmasked" portion of the pad (i.e., the part of the trace that is copper in color. If the pad is a through hole with a second trace on the "underside" of the PCB, it's good to flip the PCB over and to run a little more solder on that underside trace.
Keep a moist sponge hands to "swipe" the soldering pencil in, to keep a clean and shiny surface on the pencil's tip. (Helps when you flow the solder, and keeps the tip free from oxides (and crud).
Re: a lifted trace, per your question. Yes, you can still solder to a lifted trace, as long as the pad remains intact. Press the trace back down onto the PCB, and solder away. Having said that, if you are soldering to a once lifted trace/pad, you loose much of the mechanical strength in the joint, and any movement of the component can ultimately tear the trace. Just be careful, and take your time.
Press on....!
Your technique needs tuning(!). Use the iron to heat both the pad and the component lead, before you attempt to run solder to the joint. The solder (once properly heated) should flow quickly to create a smooth bead on the PCB pad. For esthetics (and other reasons), it's best to flow the solder to cover the entire "unmasked" portion of the pad (i.e., the part of the trace that is copper in color. If the pad is a through hole with a second trace on the "underside" of the PCB, it's good to flip the PCB over and to run a little more solder on that underside trace.
Keep a moist sponge hands to "swipe" the soldering pencil in, to keep a clean and shiny surface on the pencil's tip. (Helps when you flow the solder, and keeps the tip free from oxides (and crud).
Re: a lifted trace, per your question. Yes, you can still solder to a lifted trace, as long as the pad remains intact. Press the trace back down onto the PCB, and solder away. Having said that, if you are soldering to a once lifted trace/pad, you loose much of the mechanical strength in the joint, and any movement of the component can ultimately tear the trace. Just be careful, and take your time.
Press on....!
Last edited:
Invader,
Best to first build the power supply with the transformer in the chassis, and then test its outputs before you stuff and connect the amp boards. I strongly recommend you confirm the power supply works before you apply voltage to the amp components (think.....smoke, fire, brimstone....!). Do you have a DC voltmeter or multimeter to check output voltage.
......[/URL]
Could someone please elucidate on how this is done? (Or point me to a post pls). What should I be getting between V+, V-, and the grounds?
Thx
Dave
So - what's the most that could go wrong at this stage?
I'm about to plug it in to test my voltages.
I haven't installed the resistor for the PSU LEDs
(haven't shown up yet) and the purple wire off the transformer is till a vagrant.
Looks okay, nothing obviously out of place?
Waiting for the Keratherm pads I forgot to order before mounting the amps.
Thx
D
I'm about to plug it in to test my voltages.
I haven't installed the resistor for the PSU LEDs
(haven't shown up yet) and the purple wire off the transformer is till a vagrant.
Looks okay, nothing obviously out of place?
Waiting for the Keratherm pads I forgot to order before mounting the amps.
Thx
D
@Trismos, well done, it looks good to my eyes - the purple wire is the shield wire which you can attach to chassis ground. The only question is did you check that the red/black primary transformer connections are split appropriately? Meaning if you measured resistance across red/black, the same loop is not attached to the incoming IEC leads at the same time. Let me know if this makes sense.
As a precaution, power it up slowly if you have a variac or build yourself a mains series bulb tester:
mains light bulb tester.
mains light bulb tester.
@Trismos, well done, it looks good to my eyes - the purple wire is the shield wire which you can attach to chassis ground. The only question is did you check that the red/black primary transformer connections are split appropriately? Meaning if you measured resistance across red/black, the same loop is not attached to the incoming IEC leads at the same time. Let me know if this makes sense.
I did but am only 95% certain I have it wired up correctly at the terminal block. I also wasn't sure how this applied to the other side where it attached to the bridge rectifiers. As for the variac .. no such animal here. I'll peek at the link for the lightbulb tester.
Thank you for your comments.
As a precaution, power it up slowly if you have a variac or build yourself a mains series bulb tester:
mains light bulb tester.
So the idea here is that the bulb will go first if you have a dead short, otherwise it just stays lit correct?
am only 95% certain I have it wired up correctly at the terminal block. I also wasn't
sure how this applied to the other side where it attached to the bridge rectifiers.
You must be 100% sure before powering it up. This also includes the capacitor polarities.
Last edited:
So the idea here is that the bulb will go first if you have a dead short, otherwise it just stays lit correct?
No, the bulb will light brightly if there is a big problem. The bulb drops most
of the line voltage (and so lights up) if there is excessive current draw.
Last edited:
You must be 100% sure before powering it up. This also includes the capacitor polarities.
If I was a 100% sure I don't suppose I'd be here asking and the thing would be plugged into the wall already . I'm 58. I can't tell you how many times I've been sure about something only to have my ego spanked.
This light bulb tester - does it need a switch or just plug it into the wall and plug the PSU into it? The bulb will come on of course.
additionally, a link ( Powering Your Radio Safely with a Dim-bulb Tester ) provided in a related post indicates I need to have the correct wattage of light. What might that be for this PSU built around the F5?
Thx
D
Thx
D
If I was a 100% sure I don't suppose I'd be here asking
This light bulb tester - does it need a switch
You should post photos, the schematic, and the transformer mfr wiring diagram here,
so others can do the 100% certain part.
I'd use a wall switch or a switched outlet strip to turn on the power.
You don't want to be near the power supply or amp at switch on.
If there is NOT a big problem, the bulb will NOT light up.
If there IS a big problem, the bulb WILL light up.
Last edited:
I need to have the correct wattage of light. What might that be for this PSU built around the F5?
A 100W (incandescent only, no LED or fluorescent types) bulb should do ok.
Will you power up the power supply without any load, or connected to the amplifier?
Post the wiring diagram of your transformer first.
Last edited:
With respect to connecting primaries, if you don't have them wired such that both windings go through a thermistor, you won't blow anything up other than maybe the IEC fuse but you will not be gaining the benefit of inrush current limiting that the CL-60 thermistors are meant to provide.
I looked at my store PSU board and your caps look oriented correctly.
Try a 100W bulb for the tester if you have. If there is a short it will light up bright and stay lit strongly. If it's good, it is supposed to light only briefly on turn-on and then dim to indicate not-strong current draw.
I looked at my store PSU board and your caps look oriented correctly.
Try a 100W bulb for the tester if you have. If there is a short it will light up bright and stay lit strongly. If it's good, it is supposed to light only briefly on turn-on and then dim to indicate not-strong current draw.
You should post photos, the schematic, and the transformer mfr wiring diagram here,
so others can do the 100% certain part.
Hi Rayma
Pics posted above. I don't read schematics very well but tend to follow instructions well (I'm married after all), and I basically followed the excellent builds posted by 6L6 on both the PSU and the F5.
I'm using the Antek 4218 400VA 18V.
With respect to connecting primaries, if you don't have them wired such that both windings go through a thermistor, you won't blow anything up other than maybe the IEC fuse but you will not be gaining the benefit of inrush current limiting that the CL-60 thermistors are meant to provide.
I looked at my store PSU board and your caps look oriented correctly.
Try a 100W bulb for the tester if you have. If there is a short it will light up bright and stay lit strongly. If it's good, it is supposed to light only briefly on turn-on and then dim to indicate not-strong current draw.
Thx Twitchie, makes me feel a tad more at ease. I'll build this light bulb tester before I proceed any further.
A 100W (incandescent only, no LED or fluorescent types) bulb should do ok.
Will you power up the power supply without any load, or connected to the amplifier?
Post the wiring diagram of your transformer first.
I wasn't thinking it was a good idea to wire up the amps without testing the PSU first....
I'm using the Antek 4218 400VA 18V.
You do have 120VAC line voltage there, correct?
It is unfortunate that the Antek wiring diagram is very poor
and ambiguous, at best. Too bad, no wonder you were uncertain.
The primary wiring:
Connect both REDS to one AC source terminal.
Connect both BLACKS to the other AC source terminal.
This parallels (in phase) the primary windings.
Secondary wiring:
Use an ohm meter to sort the 4 secondary leads into two pairs.
A pair should show low resistance between green and blue.
Tape the two wires of each pair together near the ends
when you are certain so they don't get mixed up.
Connect one pair (green/blue) to one pair of AC input terminals.
Connect the other pair (green/blue) to the other pair of ac input terminals.
Last edited:
You do have 120VAC line voltage there, correct?
It is unfortunate that the Antek wiring diagram is very poor
and ambiguous, at best. Too bad, no wonder you were uncertain.
The primary wiring:
Connect both REDS to one AC source terminal.
Connect both BLACKS to the other AC source terminal.
This parallels (in phase) the primary windings.
Secondary wiring:
Use an ohm meter to sort the 4 secondary leads into two pairs.
A pair should show low resistance between green and blue.
Tape the two wires of each pair together near the ends
when you are certain so they don't get mixed up.
Connect one pair (green/blue) to one pair of AC input terminals.
Connect the other pair (green/blue) to the other pair of ac input terminals.
Thanks Rayma - I do believe I have it right then. And yes, 110V typical circuit in the house.
I just ran out to the hardware store to pick up parts for a bulb tester - had to run over to Walmart and dig thru the back to find a 100 watt incandescent type. I have 3 spares if anyone else runs into this problem!
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- First time F5 build