Everyone does what, Dave - have our own dictionary, or understand that yours is just a bit more special than most? 😀
There's no denying that Davish, along with fat fingered typos can make for very entertaining reading. After almost 20yrs, I still scratch my head sometimes. 😉
There's no denying that Davish, along with fat fingered typos can make for very entertaining reading. After almost 20yrs, I still scratch my head sometimes. 😉
I want to line the inside of the MLTL 38 with 10 mm thick foam used in car for sound insulation.
Is this helpful to improve sound or will it effect the calculated internal volume ?
Is this helpful to improve sound or will it effect the calculated internal volume ?
Use more bracing if you're concerned about panel resonance. Belting a box with your knuckles is not representative of how the cabinet & drive units function & is usually only of value in quickly establishing where a main panel mode exists.
The foam pictured looks on a quick glance to be a closed cell type, so it will be ineffective for acoustic damping (it will be bordering on reflective) & probably just take up internal volume. However, it doesn't look to have a sufficiently high mass to dramatically affect the resonant behaviour of the panels either, making it the worst of both worlds.
The foam pictured looks on a quick glance to be a closed cell type, so it will be ineffective for acoustic damping (it will be bordering on reflective) & probably just take up internal volume. However, it doesn't look to have a sufficiently high mass to dramatically affect the resonant behaviour of the panels either, making it the worst of both worlds.
Closed cell for constrained layer damping of high Fs metal panels, so no good for speaker cabs unless made of relatively thin sheet metal and also reduces net volume [Vb].
GM
Yeah, one can only tell if the cab sounds 'hollow' at a low frequency, which for speakers with a tuning down low is useless as it either needs to sound like one's knuckles hitting a concrete slab [well below tuning] or when hitting a braced metal panel [well above tuning] to ensure the driver can't excite any cab panel eigenmodes.
From this we see that increasing the cab's stiffness via full 3D bracing to tie all six sides together is the cheapest, easiest, least bulky way to achieving our goal, so if one is going to use a knock test, at least use a ball peen hammer or similar.
GM
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They were both very good. FHXL perhaps a bit more coherent. The choosing was my phsiotherapists choice when he decided to get one of them to replace his Klipch. I’d be happy with either. Tysen V2 is going to be able to move more air in the bass. A step up would be one of our 2 A7.3 WAW.
dave
dave
I am looking to build a pair of Eikona VTL, but would like to know if they're good for my space. I have to put the speakers on the long wall. Due to layout of the room the distance between the listening chair and speakers will be about 8.5 ft. This is not exactly near-field, but probably closer than usual so I would like to know if they will perform well given the setting.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
They should work fine and if angled in correctly (60 degrees rather than the usual 45 so the axes cross in front of the listening position), the stereo image holds up even if the speakers are farther apart than usual. The VTL shape means they can be placed back against the wall when not in use or used for background listening.
So I am planning to build the 30" MLTL from the Jordan Website. The plan shows the driver mounted on the wide side. Is there a benefit to rotating the box 90 degrees and mounting the driver on the narrow side? 186 mm exterior instead of 271 mm (using 18 mm BB ply).
Hi Colin,
Do you recall the BSC filter values recommend for the VTL, I couldn't find them on the Jordan website.
Thanks,
Paul
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