It's not any gaps that are an issue, well not if veneering as veneer is well capable of bridging a minute crack. It still needs sealing though, the issue is where end grain and face grain meet on the same surface, say if butt or rebate cornering even if using solvent adhesive one will move more than the other and you can get a minute step that shows through the veneer. Been there and got the t shirt.
friendly1uk - "telegraphing" if you've not figured it out is used in the trade to describe tiny imperfections showing through (if not being amplified 
) the finish layers - whether paint, veneer, or even plastic laminate .
For example, you wouldn't want to put a high gloss post-form grade plastic laminate on veneer faced plywood core vertical panels or doors.
) the finish layers - whether paint, veneer, or even plastic laminate . For example, you wouldn't want to put a high gloss post-form grade plastic laminate on veneer faced plywood core vertical panels or doors.
B&Q is a UK DIY hardware store. Block and Quayle.
They sell pretty much anything for DIY, it is a huge building.
I use them because they have a very large vertical circular saw which is very accurate.
For my W bins I get 18 inch by 4 foot strips cut and then cut them to size at home. It "usually" makes for a very good fitting box.
friendly1uk - "telegraphing" if you've not figured it out is used in the trade to describe tiny imperfections showing through (if not being amplified
For example, you wouldn't want to put a high gloss post-form grade plastic laminate on veneer faced plywood core vertical panels or doors.
Nope.. but I get it now
Kinda.. send it through, if you will.Oddly, I'm tasked with the job of putting a gloss black formica cover on some boxes right now. Only I wish it were a a veneer faced ply like you say would be bad. That sounds lovely and flat. I have mdf with so many filled screw holes it looks like it has measles. The real issue is getting it mirror like at the edges though. I would of made the baffle full width had I of had the request before the build. But no... I have a typical... nightmare. I even have epoxy rattling round in my head, but Ive rebated everything already. So self leveling goo running down the sides isn't even happening. I'm stuck tbh. The cheapest laminate is £45 and 0.7mm thick. They will be getting a vinyl wrap and pushed out the door soon.
You could always layer a skin of 1/8" MDF with contact cement over the pock-marked carcass before applying the gloss laminate. Depending on the brand of laminate you're using (Formica is only a brand name), there may be color-core available that will avoid the telltale brown lines of phenolic backer on exposed edges. Just note that the color-core types are fragile and need special care in trimming edges - a slight bevel is highly recommended.
I don't think I can get 1/8th board. I had to glue two bits of balsa together just to get a 200mm panel recently. Some sort of acrylic/nylon/polycarb was on the cards, but my router might crack or melt it. I'm in a corner with budget as it's not for me. Hence I'm ready to push them out. I can't talk to him. He never stops yapping and its a new topic every sentence. I can spend hours trying to tell him something and leaving having failed. I only know the finish he wants as he pointed to some other furniture and said "like that" which is a long time to stay on any topic. I swear he has an axe wound under his pants.
You should probably leave me to it. I just need to vent, then quit lol
Any idea what continuous gasket is called? Something like a foam worm. Likely made using an extrusion process. Round and about an 1/8th in diameter, but very long. The box is blowing round the speaker under 20hz. It may stop when fully bolted in, but I would like a cheap approach to making a 313mm gasket.
I have some blue-tack. The stuff you can put up posters with. Maybe I will make some shoe laces with that. I can roll it with a hardback, using a couple of 2mm plastic packers on the table top to ensure a 2mm worm is created. Yet more effort to save a dollar.
Sorry for the negativity
You should probably leave me to it. I just need to vent, then quit lol
Any idea what continuous gasket is called? Something like a foam worm. Likely made using an extrusion process. Round and about an 1/8th in diameter, but very long. The box is blowing round the speaker under 20hz. It may stop when fully bolted in, but I would like a cheap approach to making a 313mm gasket.
I have some blue-tack. The stuff you can put up posters with. Maybe I will make some shoe laces with that. I can roll it with a hardback, using a couple of 2mm plastic packers on the table top to ensure a 2mm worm is created. Yet more effort to save a dollar.
Sorry for the negativity
If he ever finds this post along with recognizable pictures of his speaker enclosures under construction, you are in trouble.
You can't count on the relative anonymity of this forum on the vast Internet. Google has a way of turning up unexpected associations quite by accident.
I try not to say anything too negative about anyone on the 'Net, even when it's richly deserved. You never know who will find it, and what the eventual fallout might be. One angry comment can keep you from landing a job years later - hiring committees scour the 'Web for job applicant's footprints these days, or your prospective customers might be turned off.
Welcome to the goldfish bowl that is life in the 21st century!
-Gnobuddy
I don't think I can get 1/8th board. I had to glue two bits of balsa together just to get a 200mm panel recently. Some sort of acrylic/nylon/polycarb was on the cards, but my router might crack or melt it. I'm in a corner with budget as it's not for me. Hence I'm ready to push them out. I can't talk to him. He never stops yapping and its a new topic every sentence. I can spend hours trying to tell him something and leaving having failed. I only know the finish he wants as he pointed to some other furniture and said "like that" which is a long time to stay on any topic. I swear he has an axe wound under his pants.
You should probably leave me to it. I just need to vent, then quit lol
Any idea what continuous gasket is called? Something like a foam worm. Likely made using an extrusion process. Round and about an 1/8th in diameter, but very long. The box is blowing round the speaker under 20hz. It may stop when fully bolted in, but I would like a cheap approach to making a 313mm gasket.
I have some blue-tack. The stuff you can put up posters with. Maybe I will make some shoe laces with that. I can roll it with a hardback, using a couple of 2mm plastic packers on the table top to ensure a 2mm worm is created. Yet more effort to save a dollar.
Sorry for the negativity
Assuming your router can cut circles to suit the 12" unit what I've done in the past is cut a groove in the speaker rebate, maybe 3mm wide x 2.5mm deep. I then use o ring material in 3mm dia, super glue the end to make a giant o ring and clamp in place with the drive unit. Neoprene rubber cames in all diameters and is sold by the yard.
or just use some sticky back foam tape?
Quick-step Grey Floor sealing foam strip, 0.06kg | Departments | DIY at B&Q
I'm not saying anything he hasn't heard from me already. So while it looks like I'm talking about him behind his back, I'm really not.
I will try looking for O-ring in foam. I see it often enough in low IP plastic project boxes.
Oh the penny just dropped. Plasticine or play-doh. I wasn't sure I could make an extrusion machine for blue-tac but that stuff is soft. I can get a foot pump from the £1 shop. Block the outlet. Drill a new one just the size I want. Then strip it to fill the cylinder in equally cheap modelling goo. My brains suddenly alive with similar ideas. I may even have access to a kids toy that makes pretend spaghetti from the stuff. Same thing. A ram, but with a selection of drilled boards you can push through. I can soon make a flat board
Bit wet though perhaps.
The other options presented are welcomed. I'm not sure I can cut a groove though. Simply as I don't have such small router bits. Mine is over sized, even for a 1500w. I could of done it with a pointy bit before sticking the 18mm boards together for the 36mm baffle. Hindsite.. oh well
Matt, does that stuff squash too nothing? It looks about 10mm
Edit: Found it!! They're calling it cord? £1.50 a meter for a foam cord, 3mm thick. That's perfect as my 313 driver sits in a 315 recess. Giving 1.5mm to use up with gasket and some sort of laminate finish. It will look like I planned it years in advance
Squishes to about 0.3mm which I can route out with anything handy really
Rubber Cord O Ring Cord Neoprene Black Sponge 3mm Diameter X 1m | eBay
I will try looking for O-ring in foam. I see it often enough in low IP plastic project boxes.
Oh the penny just dropped. Plasticine or play-doh. I wasn't sure I could make an extrusion machine for blue-tac but that stuff is soft. I can get a foot pump from the £1 shop. Block the outlet. Drill a new one just the size I want. Then strip it to fill the cylinder in equally cheap modelling goo. My brains suddenly alive with similar ideas. I may even have access to a kids toy that makes pretend spaghetti from the stuff. Same thing. A ram, but with a selection of drilled boards you can push through. I can soon make a flat board
Bit wet though perhaps.
The other options presented are welcomed. I'm not sure I can cut a groove though. Simply as I don't have such small router bits. Mine is over sized, even for a 1500w. I could of done it with a pointy bit before sticking the 18mm boards together for the 36mm baffle. Hindsite.. oh well
Matt, does that stuff squash too nothing? It looks about 10mm
Edit: Found it!! They're calling it cord? £1.50 a meter for a foam cord, 3mm thick. That's perfect as my 313 driver sits in a 315 recess. Giving 1.5mm to use up with gasket and some sort of laminate finish. It will look like I planned it years in advance
Squishes to about 0.3mm which I can route out with anything handy really
Rubber Cord O Ring Cord Neoprene Black Sponge 3mm Diameter X 1m | eBay
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Oh the penny just dropped. Plasticine or play-doh. I wasn't sure I could make an extrusion machine for blue-tac but that stuff is soft. I can get a foot pump from the £1 shop. Block the outlet. Drill a new one just the size I want. Then strip it to fill the cylinder in equally cheap modelling goo. My brains suddenly alive with similar ideas. I may even have access to a kids toy that makes pretend spaghetti from the stuff. Same thing. A ram, but with a selection of drilled boards you can push through. I can soon make a flat board
You can make spaghetti out of Blu Tack by cutting into lengths with a scalpel and ruler, then join the ends with simple scarf joints. This can then be rolled into a round cross section on a marble kitchen top, either by hand or with a flat piece of board. Keep it clean and free of dust and it will stick like new. Doesn't dry out either, lasts forever and can be recycled.
tapestryofsound
Designed to withstand any air pressure, may not, likely isn't closed cell either. I prefer the engineered route.
I like the engineered approach to. I've found toolstation want just £1.32 for a 3mm 1/4" router bit. Which works well as the shaft is just a couple of mm wider than the flutes, so no bearing required. My router seems faulty though. I can't plunge the chuck anywhere near the sole plate. I need a 1/2" extension (I have 1/2 too 1/4 adapter) but the price of them!! It seems 1/4" ones are £5 and 20mm ones are £5 and even 1/2 too 1/4 adaption one's are about £8 but a simple 1/2 too 1/2 is £16 without the £6 collet. £22 for an extension, for a machine I got reduced price at £40. I can feel my pants being peeled down.
Blue-Tac is Tannoy approved. I know. I found a huge lump in some lol. The 6s held the ends on with a torsion rod (see: bit of wood) and the magnet tacked to it, for resonance reasons I guess.
Blue-Tac is Tannoy approved. I know. I found a huge lump in some lol. The 6s held the ends on with a torsion rod (see: bit of wood) and the magnet tacked to it, for resonance reasons I guess.
You’d be further ahead using something like this: closed sealed foam tape.
Diall PVC & foam Self adhesive Draught seal roll, (L)6000mm | Departments | DIY at B&Q
dave
Diall PVC & foam Self adhesive Draught seal roll, (L)6000mm | Departments | DIY at B&Q
dave
On the subject of telegraphing, and my own flat finish requirement, How would gloss paint respond? The type that doesn't leave brush strokes (yeah right) must be some sort of self leveling fluid. So on a horizontal surface, would it vanish imperfections?
I'm too cheap to buy any. All my gloss is from the supermarket lol It's just another idea falling out the washing machine that is my churning mind.
I'm too cheap to buy any. All my gloss is from the supermarket lol It's just another idea falling out the washing machine that is my churning mind.
Hay you have looked on a UK site. Thank you. That's certainly going the extra mile or 3000.
As it's a sub bass 12 I would like to get it on the box. If it were mid/bass I would be all over that, and in fact have something similar to hand already. The idea of something that can vanish is technically better though, and that's sounding better to me before I've even heard it
I would just lay in that 3mm I found, but it's going to put odd forces upon the box and basket. Twisting like motions, as it won't cover the entire mounting flange.
I realise this isn't quite my original posting. Ive changed tack somewhat. Seeing that actually I can do a great job for a little less money, and have a new router bit left at the end of it. Just that extension I need is stuffing me, but not for the first time. I'm going to get the bit, try and use it, and if not it's time to bite the bullet on that extension.
Nice one though
For a gloss paint finish, I'd never attempt other than by HVLP spray - and only after several builds of high solids primer with lots of sanding, wiping with tack cloth. etc Even then, without isolated filtered booth, a speck of dust or insect can ruin your day. There's a reason I use veneer and matte or even dull lacquer finishes.
I was just thinking the self leveling action would give a nice flat surface. If I finished with paint, it would likely be automotive paint.
I often pot up projects with resin. This levels itself like water in a glass. Which is what I had going round in my idea factory. Along with a you-tube of a lady covering a garden table with two part surf board epoxy. Really watery, and easy to get flowing about with a heat gun. She actually uses lots of colours to great effect. I'm not sure it's the crisp finish we want, but it does get the cogs turning.
I often pot up projects with resin. This levels itself like water in a glass. Which is what I had going round in my idea factory. Along with a you-tube of a lady covering a garden table with two part surf board epoxy. Really watery, and easy to get flowing about with a heat gun. She actually uses lots of colours to great effect. I'm not sure it's the crisp finish we want, but it does get the cogs turning.
I have never done spraying, but have achieved a hand painted mirror gloss varnish finish by working in a room where all the walls and floor were misted with water overnight with work done the next morning. Any dust in the air eventually hits the walls and sticks. Cheap as chips, and oh yes, a full TyVek bunny suit and nitrile gloves are mandatory.
tapestryofsound
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