I would not be surprised if he just burnt out.
But, if he isnt dead, he will be back IMO.
-Richard Marsh
But, if he isnt dead, he will be back IMO.
-Richard Marsh
Pete went on a cross country bicycle trip. I tried following him on facebook. Seemed he had a run in with the cops in almost every town. Not sure what happened to him after that. He just quit posting.
What happened to him was a lot more serious than burnout. You don't just come back from that without having changed.
Hi
I would like to ask for help
Where I can find the BOM for these OPS and for the SPOOKY preamp.
My rail voltage will be about between +/-80 to 82V
I ordered some capacitors by guessing the values. Some place the 100V caps are too big so I will need the BOM before I waste more fund on 100V capacitors.
Thank you for the help! 🙂
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There has never been a BOM published for the Slewmaster output boards because there are way too many options available. It's quite easy to select a proper capacitor. Simply measure the lead spacing and diameter on the board and select it's value from the schematic. Enter these values in your suppliers search engine and pick a cap with your required voltage rating.
Thanks for your answer
Not that simple because of some boutique parts even do the same voltage as regular they are in a bigger can.
The other thing is I only need some places 50V or maybe less and I use 100V because my rail voltage a bit over 80V it is a waste of money and does not feet.
I already purchased most of the capacitors only need to buy the small values like 22uF for C102 & C105, and C108 is 1uF (I think that should be a foil capacitor) For example for C125 & C127 I ordered 1000uF 100V Nichicon gold, it did not arrive yet I hope it will feet.
The other question does Q101 and 102 half the rail voltage or double. I guess it half so at the IPS (SPOOKY) I am fine with 50V caps.
You know these boutique parts are very expensive(at least to me) and if I have to reorder it because it does not feet or it will blow up when I switch the power on after I marvel what a heck went wrong.
Thanks for your help. To read all the thread all over and over again while I suffer from PTSD not very pleasant also my patient is very thin.
Thanks anyway, I hope the previous attachment is for the latest SPOOKY IPS. Thank you for that to!
Greetings to all.
You're in the wrong thread if you are looking for sympathy for "boutique" caps not fitting. Nichicon caps don't fit in the "boutique" class though. They are just good quality capacitors. If you are buying from any kind of reputable supplier they will clearly state the capacitor diameter and lead centers.
C102/105 will see approximately 1V less than rail voltage so 100V would be required there. The preferred cap for C107/108 are film caps (there was some confusion with this cap numbering. It's C108 on the new boards).
Q101 and Q102 are cap multipliers. They should only be removing power supply ripple so they are only dropping around 1V. The Spooky VAS section will be running at pretty much full rail voltage so it will also need 100V caps.
C102/105 will see approximately 1V less than rail voltage so 100V would be required there. The preferred cap for C107/108 are film caps (there was some confusion with this cap numbering. It's C108 on the new boards).
Q101 and Q102 are cap multipliers. They should only be removing power supply ripple so they are only dropping around 1V. The Spooky VAS section will be running at pretty much full rail voltage so it will also need 100V caps.
Thank you!
Talking about Nichicon FG, FW or KZ.
Same with Elna Silmic or Cerafine, those are rare 100V that is why I use Ninchicon FG or FW.
Talking about Nichicon FG, FW or KZ.
Same with Elna Silmic or Cerafine, those are rare 100V that is why I use Ninchicon FG or FW.
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Hi
I do not look for sympathy just look for common sense and a bit of help.
Based on the schematics C125 & C127 (marked with red) same value as C103 & C106 (marked with blue) these case 470uF 100V because of my rail voltage will be at 80 to 82V.
Please take a look at the PC boards and the size difference between the mentioned capacitors. If all 4 should be 470uF, in that case, cannot be 100V it will not feet at the place of C103 & C106 max I can use a 220 or even less if I use Nichicon Muse.
The same time in the schematics C113 & C111 =47uF (marked with yellow) I can easily feet there 470uF.
So the advise you gave does not help. That is why I had the original question or I ASKED for help.
I am not here to argue I only want to ask sincere help. That is all.
That is why I thought maybe some of the capacitors have different voltage ratings
Please take a look at the PC board and the schematic. If there is an error lets clear that up.
I just want to stuff the PC boards with the right components and put it together, I know most of you guys already built the amp, I was sick for a while, still not totally recovered but I would love to get some progress.
Thank you guys, I really mean it!🙂
Greetings
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Things might be less confusing if you were using the schematic that matches the board you are working on. If you look closely you will see some alternate capacitor recommendations marked in red for extreme power applications.
As I already explained, you need to plug the dimensions of the capacitor into the search engine of your supplier. These boards are tight fitting. Nichicon offers a lot of caps more suited for an application like this than just the gold coloured ones. The output stage area normally runs very warm so a higher temperature rating would be a good trait to look for. The UVZ series for example are smaller diameter and have a much better temperature rating.
As I already explained, you need to plug the dimensions of the capacitor into the search engine of your supplier. These boards are tight fitting. Nichicon offers a lot of caps more suited for an application like this than just the gold coloured ones. The output stage area normally runs very warm so a higher temperature rating would be a good trait to look for. The UVZ series for example are smaller diameter and have a much better temperature rating.
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jwilhelm I do have these schematic!
I posted the same help request (question) with this schematic at the other thread, no answer at all so I came back here and picked a simplified schematics where are no HexFets.
With that, I messed up. That was a mistake on my part.
First to be clear the red values for the BJT outputs or for the HexFets or just because of the higher voltage.
It does have some significant differences.
Would you please let me know.
I am interested in BJT only.
Yes, I will use the gold type of Nichicon FG and FW types. I try to use parts made for audio.
I purchased some Nichicon MUSE type also but those have a bigger diameter than the gold type.
MUSE will rest in my parts bins.
Thank you very much
I posted the same help request (question) with this schematic at the other thread, no answer at all so I came back here and picked a simplified schematics where are no HexFets.
With that, I messed up. That was a mistake on my part.
First to be clear the red values for the BJT outputs or for the HexFets or just because of the higher voltage.
It does have some significant differences.
Would you please let me know.
I am interested in BJT only.
Yes, I will use the gold type of Nichicon FG and FW types. I try to use parts made for audio.
I purchased some Nichicon MUSE type also but those have a bigger diameter than the gold type.
MUSE will rest in my parts bins.
Thank you very much
The increased capacitor values would be fine for any higher power/current application with either type of output device. As power increases supply ripple increases so larger capacitors will help reduce this.
Hello guys I have a question about the OPS GND points I have the file I think is from JKuteman who did the layout I don't see his name on the board ? well I just tweaked and I have this idea to place a G1 GND with a trace instead of having a wire across the PCB a jumper will be in place and that will avoid having a wire on top or under the PCB I mean not big deal but I want your opinion is a good idea ?
Best Regards
Juan
Best Regards
Juan
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That layout was Ostripper's. He recommended running the G2 ground back to the power supply directly to avoid adding noise from the output stage ground to the input.
Ostripper did the layout good to know, I will then take that advice thank you jwihelm
Best Regards
Juan
Best Regards
Juan
Right - the whole idea behind having those two grounds is to have them connected to the main PSU ground with separate wires (no wire connecting them under the board).
Same thing with the IPS board ground - another separate wire to the main PSU ground.
Same thing with the IPS board ground - another separate wire to the main PSU ground.