I bought some of these drivers and once again I am having trouble finding the right combination of speakers to build. It seems I have a habit of buying a speaker then realizing most the project links for that speaker are very old and often broken.
So far I've found
The Tabaq - can get details
Tabaq center - various options
Bandits - links and instructions are fine
I was hoping to put together a 5.1 set of speakers based off these but I'm having trouble finding enough plans that make sense in a set (that I know of).
Would a set of bandits pair well with a set of singularity? Tabaq for a center? I know full range HTs elicit mixed feelings. I mostly play music or tv on 2.1 or stereo and had thoughts of building the singularity. Thought it would be nice to round out the set with some inexpensive diy options. The W4 is on pretty deep discount so I bought 3. Thanks for any ideas or suggestions
So far I've found
The Tabaq - can get details
Tabaq center - various options
Bandits - links and instructions are fine
I was hoping to put together a 5.1 set of speakers based off these but I'm having trouble finding enough plans that make sense in a set (that I know of).
Would a set of bandits pair well with a set of singularity? Tabaq for a center? I know full range HTs elicit mixed feelings. I mostly play music or tv on 2.1 or stereo and had thoughts of building the singularity. Thought it would be nice to round out the set with some inexpensive diy options. The W4 is on pretty deep discount so I bought 3. Thanks for any ideas or suggestions
Hmm, just a quick look-see in HR indicates the TABAQ will work if a > 120 Hz/2nd order high pass is used, so if the subs are < ~344/120 = ~2.87 m and ideally < 344/4/120 = ~0.72 m, then in theory they will be able to handle the full 50 W peak power rating [~105 dB/m].
GM
GM
https://speakerprojects.wordpress.com/2015/04/27/tangband-1320-projects/
I don't remember the size of the box (somewhere between .25 and .5cf?). This is a nice sounding driver with a darker sound (rolled treble - regardless what the manufacturers charts show). It goes pretty low for a driver this size. It could be used on its own as a dull sounding full ranger or you can add a tweeter to get additional detail. Add a sub and call it a three way using a wide-range driver. That's what I'd recommend for best sound.
I don't remember the size of the box (somewhere between .25 and .5cf?). This is a nice sounding driver with a darker sound (rolled treble - regardless what the manufacturers charts show). It goes pretty low for a driver this size. It could be used on its own as a dull sounding full ranger or you can add a tweeter to get additional detail. Add a sub and call it a three way using a wide-range driver. That's what I'd recommend for best sound.
You could probably get away with some smallish ported boxes tuned around 100Hz and let the sub do the heavy lifting. No need for anything designed with lots of LF gain (ie, big), since most subs will comfortably out-perform a few FR drivers at the low-end.
Keep the cabs small and WAF goes up, too.
Chris
Keep the cabs small and WAF goes up, too.
Chris
Thought the interest in the TABAQ was for 2.1 or stereo mode listening.........otherwise; agree that small sealed [recommend 3-3.65 L] + multiple sub system is the way to go.
GM
GM
Does anyone know of a existing design then? Small sealed with a tweeter? I'm really just trying to build a proven design.
I know of a small ported box without a tweeter. Can a tweeter be added? I do not have the skills to build a crossover. I was looking for a wood working project.
Tweeter could be added with just a single cap for XO, nothing fancy. Something like a 2uf cap to bring it down around 10kHz.
With a sealed box, it should be good to about 170Hz. For design? Well, it's a sealed box, so come up with something you like in the volume range GM suggested.
Only your woodworking skills will be the limit.
With a sealed box, it should be good to about 170Hz. For design? Well, it's a sealed box, so come up with something you like in the volume range GM suggested.
Only your woodworking skills will be the limit.
Previously I posted a plan that included a tang band neo 6.5 sub. Caught hell for it. Admittedly it was executed in a more eccentric style and did lack the tweeter. (3" w3 instead). That was on tech talk though I believe.
So what about combinations of peerless BC25SC06-04 tweeters, TB W3-1364sa 10k> and TB W4-1720 capped at like 300-400? In the fronts and center I would use 2 of each speaker and pad the tweeters in the surrounds. Should I find an 8 ohm tweeter? I'm suspecting I can cross the tweeter pretty high, shouldn't the reduced range of each speaker make for a pretty forgiving combination?
I'd say that's complicating your life for very little gain.
Stay with the bamboo 4" driver, add a tweeter to the sealed box, and add a sub or two... Real ones, not just mini 4" subs...
Stay with the bamboo 4" driver, add a tweeter to the sealed box, and add a sub or two... Real ones, not just mini 4" subs...
If a sealed box is rolling off at 170Hz, you're going to need to go ported unless you've got dual stereo subs to cover 170Hz down.
A ported box would get you to 100Hz easily, meaning you'll only need one sub, and it can be pretty much anywhere in the room.
Chris
A ported box would get you to 100Hz easily, meaning you'll only need one sub, and it can be pretty much anywhere in the room.
Chris
Sounds good to me. I'll focus my efforts on making a couple real subs. Can I get a recommendation on a Tweeter ?
Most things will do the job if you're just reinforcing above 10kHz. Pick one with higher sensitivity than the FR unit so you can use resistors to adjust HF level to taste.
Chris
Chris
Well even with the mini subs in the towers I had intentions of adding subs. Regardless, I have a 6 channel amp that's basically no longer viable imo. Bridgeable to 3 channels. Should I focus on 3 small subs like a TB 6.5? I have good room for one center sub in the front semi built in (very solid entertainment center, 1 3/4 butcher with veneer) and two wall hugging units in the rear.
So, let me get this straight...
You will have a movie and music room, with only L/C/R plus subs, but no surrounds?
Why not? I'd keep the 6-channel amp, hang a couple of surrounds on the wall, split the sub output and put two of at least 10" driver subs... but I forgot... did you mention the size of the room? Even so... you won't get far with 6.5" subs...
You will have a movie and music room, with only L/C/R plus subs, but no surrounds?
Why not? I'd keep the 6-channel amp, hang a couple of surrounds on the wall, split the sub output and put two of at least 10" driver subs... but I forgot... did you mention the size of the room? Even so... you won't get far with 6.5" subs...
No sorry I wasn't clear. Current receivers don't have preouts until you reach a 500$+ model with 105 RMS per channel. So basically wtf is the point of a 6 channel 125 RMS stand alone amp? So bridged that leaves me 3 channels 300 RMS to play with subs. It's a bigger room. I was thinking 10-12 sub in the front thin subs in the back against the wall. The 2 in the rear would be lowest priority out of everything I'm building. Ordered 2 more w4.
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Figure out if you think you need a tweeter first. Stick the drivers up in a couple of baffles or cobbled together boxes and see if you like the sound.
J.
J.
This high up, cheap little piezos work well and small enough to get away with using multiples if greater efficiency is required.
GM
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