TPA3116D2 Amp

What do you think about this tpa3116 board? It cost around $8 on ebay.
It seems to use "good looking components" just by judging their big size compared to cheaper board that are around $5 or less.

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DC 12V 24V TPA3116 Dual Channel Stereo 50Wx2 BTL Mono 100W Audio Amplifier Board | eBay
 

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KK Moon KH-m139

My first TPA3116D2 arrived in the mail this morning. I don't have any speakers at work so I wasn't able to listen to it yet but I did get to measure it using my Behringer UCA-202 soundcard and Visual Analyzer. The 1000hz test tone looks pretty good, especially using my HRT Microstreamer DAC. I had a lot more harmonic distortion using my Raspberry PI's built-in DAC, the third attached image. The rising noise levels above 10khz are artifacts from my sound card so you can ignore that. THD looks to be 0.0017%, if I'm reading Visual Analyzer correctly. I'll report back after I've given it a proper listen.

I've attached the official circuit for this board.
 

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The "Flipper", a one evening project 😀

TPA3116 upside-down aka flipped to mount directly on bare metal.
No fancy-pancy extra features.

PBTL only
Diff or SE input
Selectable gain
Selectable fSW
Antipop-Circuit
Sync with daisy-chain + series termination
No BS decoupling (Just 270uF Hybrid Polymer EEHZA1V271P+ 100n + 1n per side)
"Standard" 10R + 1u AVCC filter
Auto-Recover + Fault LED
Ferrite+C or LC-Filter
Vishay Dual Inductors (Meant to be used with Class-D), Isat=8A, Irms= 6A

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Of course unrouted at the moment and it could be a bit smaller.
 

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Hi, I brought TPA3116 2*100Watts on the other day, So i have problem with.

1. Left channel has 1 Volt DC offset, It's make speaker push forward and voice coil generate heat, Yet sound also good.

2. Right channel's inductor heat than left channel, Yet sound also good.

What problem is?, or i just bad luck.

Sorry for poor english and thank you.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
I am also trying a little with pbtl and also used the Vishay duals 🙂 After seeing datasheet for 3128 I did use only gvdd at inputside tpachip, no gainsettting, for one AM pin, MUTE pin (just when manually switched) PLIMIT pin direct and SDZ pin. I did wonder if that would work. I "took" tpa32xx outputlayout, so no unbroken groundplane, original size 40x40, relaxed to 45x50 now. 450V polyprop outputcapacitors going back to tpachip/150uF alupolymer ground, also 820uF's, just 0805 parts and two 1210 film for input.
 
I will have time a little later. MKP and 10mm electrolytics are TH as input/output connectors. Topside tpa,smd's for gvdd etc, pvvc, bootstrap, alu polymers. Bottomside signal input smd's, output pre and after snubbers, Vishay, MKP, 10mm electrolytics. Flat 6.3mm pins for speakers and power, faston? I always forget name 🙂 Bottomside will be normal look at topside.
 
The "Flipper", a one evening project 😀

TPA3116 upside-down aka flipped to mount directly on bare metal.
No fancy-pancy extra features.

PBTL only
Diff or SE input
Selectable gain
Selectable fSW
Antipop-Circuit
Sync with daisy-chain + series termination
No BS decoupling (Just 270uF Hybrid Polymer EEHZA1V271P+ 100n + 1n per side)
"Standard" 10R + 1u AVCC filter
Auto-Recover + Fault LED
Ferrite+C or LC-Filter
Vishay Dual Inductors (Meant to be used with Class-D), Isat=8A, Irms= 6A

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Of course unrouted at the moment and it could be a bit smaller.

Yes looks like a very desirable item. PBTL only for this part. User options on inductors good idea too.
I sure would go for it. Actually any of the 3116 boards I would pay a *lot* more than todays ebay rate.

Can I make couple of suggestions?

1.Drop two of the mounting holes. Keep the two centered holes and allow some extra clearance for sloppy junk box hardware.

2.I believe one reason the sanwu has been successful because diy people are forced into soldering the supply lines, my opinion anyway. There is some correlation with 'sound field impact' and lo-z supply.

3.Heatsink, of course na if 3118 stuffed but put two holes with clearance for optional 3116 heatsink.

4. cosmetics, black mask gold plated boards are a beauty. they are a nice display item. cost is an issue so not sure. Black with tin looks good too. Use footprint on input caps that allow film or ceramic ( I don't like ceramics in the path, Cx is voltage dependent) Film looks cool too. Yes cosmetics and audio.

5. check that anti-pop , I've received suggestions from TI not in data sheet. Will put up here later. My sanwu's never pop with the input shorted?(volume at zero)

6.Not verified yet: put a dummy resistor on output so if powered up without speaker does not go into fault. Highest value possible. Maybe 1k , don't know.

7. Flipper good idea but most diy especially in dorm rooms will be tempted to operate without heatsink. And then after hearing awesome will crank up w/o heatsink. I know has over T but why tempt Murphy?

8. Drop the sync, no one going to do it anyway . I would never put in same box, I know its designed in but heterodyne? How could it not be there.

9. not sure, but allow some good BS hf bypass for operation with dirt cheap semi-defective switchers. Im doing that with the pre-amp.

10. My next order for parts will include a sleeve of the automotive extended temperature parts. I think about $1 more.
Have to check data sheet though for subtle differences.


It looks like a very nice concept. How to sell in the US?
These are all things I would do. You are working fast, takes me months.


-bruce
 
Thanks for the input Bruce.

I'll try to give feedback on every point you mentioned.

Can I make couple of suggestions?

Of course, any feedback is much appreciated.

1.Drop two of the mounting holes. Keep the two centered holes and allow some extra clearance for sloppy junk box hardware.

If i drop the out mounting holes, i can't center the downforce needed to push the IC down to the heatsink. The TPA3116 is mounted backwards/flipped, so the ICs top power pad is now on the bottom, giving direct contact to the heatsinks metal.

There won't be a heatsink on top.

2.I believe one reason the sanwu has been successful because diy people are forced into soldering the supply lines, my opinion anyway. There is some correlation with 'sound field impact' and lo-z supply.

Hmm, 'sound field impact' from "soldered" vs "crimped" power supply connection? Not my business. With wiring between power-supply and (any) board, there wont be a real "low-z" connection except your wiring is uber short due to wirings impedance (mainly inductance). The board connection, if not totally crap, wont add much to it. (My point of view)

3.Heatsink, of course na if 3118 stuffed but put two holes with clearance for optional 3116 heatsink.

No TPA3118, but TPA3116. -> Flipped -> Heatsink on the bottom.


4. cosmetics, black mask gold plated boards are a beauty. they are a nice display item. cost is an issue so not sure. Black with tin looks good too. Use footprint on input caps that allow film or ceramic ( I don't like ceramics in the path, Cx is voltage dependent) Film looks cool too. Yes cosmetics and audio.

The only "real" black solder mask which can be called "soldermask" is "black mate". Those black/white solder mask available from most Chinese pcb fabs is silkscreen. Problem with it is the thicker layer which adds (a bit of)thermal resistance and the lower mask resolution. Tried in the mast, wasn't satisfied.

Footprints on input are 1206 actually with 100V ceramics. Influence of Cx should be negligible. I have some measurements regarding MLCC vs. "rest of the world". If Cx takes control, increased THD is within the sub-150Hz but the chips THD in general is higher than that. (And you speakers THD as well)

Gold, okay but not necessarily needed due to big footprints.

5. check that anti-pop , I've received suggestions from TI not in data sheet. Will put up here later. My sanwu's never pop with the input shorted?(volume at zero)

It is working, i use it with the TPA3132 as well, not popping at all.

6.Not verified yet: put a dummy resistor on output so if powered up without speaker does not go into fault. Highest value possible. Maybe 1k , don't know.

Never had this issue, but will see if needed.

7. Flipper good idea but most diy especially in dorm rooms will be tempted to operate without heatsink. And then after hearing awesome will crank up w/o heatsink. I know has over T but why tempt Murphy?

Then don't do so. 😀

8. Drop the sync, no one going to do it anyway . I would never put in same box, I know its designed in but heterodyne? How could it not be there.

I'll keep it for testing. I don't know if master/slave are running 180° out of phase. If not, external clock generation might come handy to do so, or when using 4 boards, running them 90° out of phase to equalize the power supplies load.

9. not sure, but allow some good BS hf bypass for operation with dirt cheap semi-defective switchers. Im doing that with the pre-amp.

Never had issues with it. HF bypass is done by 1uF + 1-10nF, we did some simulations awhile ago. If using "dirt cheap semi-defective switchers" - not my business. Spending money on "industry standard components" within an map includes a proper power supply.

10. My next order for parts will include a sleeve of the automotive extended temperature parts. I think about $1 more.
Have to check data sheet though for subtle differences.

I also use AEQ-200 for most of the projects if needed.

It looks like a very nice concept. How to sell in the US?
These are all things I would do. You are working fast, takes me months.

As i'm not into business, it works "as usual". Getting a bare pcb and solder on your own or ask for a "small batch" i can build up in my spacetime.

Regards.
 
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