So just for preamp use, over 100 mA means no any sonic privileges ...?![]()
I couldn't measure any indications and I also listened on higher Ohm headphones during the first test phase (with the more generic passive components) at 100mA vs 150mA. I do not remember any solid difference on anything >60Ω. You may try subjectively for yourself too. But keep away from expectation bias psychologically as much as you can. Also let it first run for a week on 100mA in just line preamp role you target at to get well acquainted. Then you can swap the two R10 resistors for the higher bias current lower value ones and judge.
Part of the reason DCG3/DCBST builders are asking this question is that several of us who have significantly upped the constant current setting on your 1.1 BIB regulators have reported a definite subjective improvement in sound quality. Any technical reason why the 1.1 regs sound better with higher CCS?
Thanks. nash
Thanks. nash
Its mainly about the lessening of rails THD interaction on sinusoidal or more complex current draw and the significant as a percentage lessening of Zo in those type of DC regs which does not relate to how this audio preamp circuit works. The only thing partly related as in a whole system is that the DCSTB will lessen its Zo a little when loaded heavier and maybe you could pick that one up a bit, maybe, I don't know.
Hi Morde
What make is that LDR volume/IO controller you've got - haven't seen it before.
What make is that LDR volume/IO controller you've got - haven't seen it before.
Jeah! I got my boards today and I did some layout placing practices. I think I'm going to settle with this and do the drillings. The green board is a LDR volume/IO controller and the small trafo board it's power supply.
Hi, would it be an idea to update the first post with this info?The now BF256B (J3) batch in Tea's hands is too strong for 4-5mA correct Id in circuit when R3=150R. Expect to find 220R R3 in his parts set.
Who have own J3s check they give 4-5mA with 150R using the following test circuit. If not any of them do, change your R3 value accordingly.
Sincerely
Started populating board 10 minutes ago 😀
Hello.Hi Morde
What make is that LDR volume/IO controller you've got - haven't seen it before.
The LDR board is this one: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...d-ldr-volume-source-selection-controller.html
Specifically I made a version designed by user zdr (Neb).
135mA generous bias choice is understood because your headphones are 62 Ohm and you have a huge sink, but are you really going to use it facing down? How close lucked out your Leds and Jfet parts tolerances for good output voltages and are the pass transistors heatsinks temperatures reasonable?
Hi, would it be an idea to update the first post with this info?
Sincerely
Started populating board 10 minutes ago 😀
Its specific gb parts related, can't be analytical info for post#1. But I will just put a link. With another batch the matches may change again so such info will be updated by Tea in his gb thread and blog l believe
It' s the only way to fit the sink and the amp to the main plate. Heatsinking is more than enough even this way. Output voltage are 17.28 to 17.55 volts, so I decided not to touch them. Pass transistors heatsinks temperatures are reasonable so far, but I will have to leave them on for longer time to be more certain.
So you use it as a glorified alu bar interface to chassis. That voltage range is when on just the bleeders or when under full load?
135mA generous bias choice is understood because your headphones are 62 Ohm and you have a huge sink, but are you really going to use it facing down? How close lucked out your Leds and Jfet parts tolerances for good output voltages and are the pass transistors heatsinks temperatures reasonable?
Pass transistors temp around 41 degrees Celsius after an hour or so open air though.
I managed to complete the p/s boards yesterday and both are outputting +17.3V and - 17.1V.
Time to tackle the main board and match up some transistors.
Time to tackle the main board and match up some transistors.
I am about to crank it up, should I start with jumpers in the PSU or 56R as I see people have here? I have 1R, 10R and maybe 33R on hands I can also start with...
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