It is clear that my opinion is that adopting a common symbol for many different parts of a circuit does not improve clarity.
We do have different symbols in most sch software, that could be used to show which different parts do need to be connected together.
Using one GND symbol for all, cannot be more correct.
i'm not sure what your getting at with post 58 AndrewT could you please elaborate.
as for post 59 check out what you wrote in post #29 of the thread "Attenuator pad question" this is not the only time you've spouted that rhetoric so your conscience is bothering for the right reason.
as for post 59 check out what you wrote in post #29 of the thread "Attenuator pad question" this is not the only time you've spouted that rhetoric so your conscience is bothering for the right reason.
You were pointing the finger at me.
Here's what I wrote in that post29
No where does it show that I "falsely expounding" or "spouted that rhetoric"
well stating that pin 1 needs to be directly connected to the case is indeed what you stated and i'll submit further instances where you've made the same statement when i find them.
pin1 reference and connection is determined by function of the interconnect.
it may take some time to find it but as i recall you ripped a strip out of me for even suggesting that pin 1 of an xlr need not go to case.
and no your not the only person on the forum who "falsely expounds this rhetoric" so don't take it personally.
so what type of "pro" crossover do you have?
pin1 reference and connection is determined by function of the interconnect.
it may take some time to find it but as i recall you ripped a strip out of me for even suggesting that pin 1 of an xlr need not go to case.
and no your not the only person on the forum who "falsely expounds this rhetoric" so don't take it personally.
so what type of "pro" crossover do you have?
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our "experts" all agree that the pin 1 problem is caused by not taking pin1 to chassis.
I do not include my self in there.
I simply report what the "experts" tell us.
Connect Pin1 to Chassis.
I do not include my self in there.
I simply report what the "experts" tell us.
Connect Pin1 to Chassis.
in my years as a touring tech and service technician i've learned differently.
the first thing to look at was whether the gear i was using had signal ground and power grounds in common (that's the reason i mentioned the BGW amps equiped with provision to isolate circuit ground from case/safety ground) the other place was mutichannel snakes and passive spliters (some where equiped with gnd lift switches for the express purpose of breaking the loop between two consoles sharing the same signal)
hence my original question (which from my understanding is where a good many ground loops start)
much of the "pro" gear i've used had some form of swiching or movable links for the purpose of isolating grounds so i guess talking about this subject is like trying to talk about the universe to members of the "flat earth society"
still don't want to tell me which "pro" crossover you have, that's ok i understand.
the first thing to look at was whether the gear i was using had signal ground and power grounds in common (that's the reason i mentioned the BGW amps equiped with provision to isolate circuit ground from case/safety ground) the other place was mutichannel snakes and passive spliters (some where equiped with gnd lift switches for the express purpose of breaking the loop between two consoles sharing the same signal)
hence my original question (which from my understanding is where a good many ground loops start)
much of the "pro" gear i've used had some form of swiching or movable links for the purpose of isolating grounds so i guess talking about this subject is like trying to talk about the universe to members of the "flat earth society"
still don't want to tell me which "pro" crossover you have, that's ok i understand.
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awkwardbydesign
i was taught that the different "ground" symbols have the express purpose of establishing that they are "not the same" nor should they be indiscrimantly linked.
i was taught that the different "ground" symbols have the express purpose of establishing that they are "not the same" nor should they be indiscrimantly linked.
And I thought they were in common use. I use them and I am hardly an expert! 🙂
Yes, differentiate by using the appropriate symbol for the different references/nodes.
and one could tag on GND1 where it needs to be different from GND2 etc.
Compared to most of you guys I'm a n0ob but I'm not above stating the obvious. Electricity flows when you complete a circuit. Magic occurs when you have a difference in voltage potential and a closed circuit. For me to try teaching you the truth about grounding would be hubris but I am having some difficulties seeing the problem here?
Just stop using rules of thumb and focus on the basic physics instead?
Just stop using rules of thumb and focus on the basic physics instead?
A fault causes a short between mains live and an audio connector. The audio connector is not grounded, so therefore becomes live too. Where is the current loop which will blow a fuse? Do we need to wait for a user to touch the now live connection and take enough current through himself to trip a breaker?turk 182 said:
There is not a requirement that circuit 0V be grounded. There is a requirement that external metal be grounded, and in most cases this metal also connects to circuit 0V.
Well, that's hard to argue with! 🙂 And I'm sure I'm not alone in having experienced mild shocks or tingles when touching RCA sockets. I had a Class 2 CD recorder connected to a Class 1 system, and under some conditions this could occur.
yes indeed and in the case of Rca connectors and 1/4 jacks and plugs it presents a problem which is why i question the exceptance of this type interconnect.
perhaps repeat coils or some other means of isolation should or could provide a solution without conpromising safety, any thoughts...
perhaps a retractable guard which only a keyed connector would move...?
in north america there a push by the electrical safety authority to introduce 120v receptacles that have a retractable guard to prevent anyone inserting foreign objects into it
perhaps repeat coils or some other means of isolation should or could provide a solution without conpromising safety, any thoughts...
perhaps a retractable guard which only a keyed connector would move...?
in north america there a push by the electrical safety authority to introduce 120v receptacles that have a retractable guard to prevent anyone inserting foreign objects into it
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