For chassis if you don't have tools for cutting large holes in Steel, use Front Panel Express. I have used the Hammond wood chassis then used Front Panel Express for the top plate, that way i don't have to do any metal cutting or wood work.
I think i got my top plate from diyaudio member ppp6l6gc. Worth every dime, where most of things I've tried to do end up a bit janky. I think there's a post of some folks building with that plate with really nice results.
I just happen to be getting around to doing some improvements to my board today (I had cut some corners originally). The BOM doesn't call out any terminal blocks, but I'd really like some. I noticed Tubelab had some on his experiment board (green ones) and I suspect they're the same size he uses on his boards.
Anyone suggest terminal blocks that would fit?
Perhaps 1715022 Phoenix Contact | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey
I just happen to be getting around to doing some improvements to my board today (I had cut some corners originally). The BOM doesn't call out any terminal blocks, but I'd really like some. I noticed Tubelab had some on his experiment board (green ones) and I suspect they're the same size he uses on his boards.
Anyone suggest terminal blocks that would fit?
Perhaps 1715022 Phoenix Contact | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey
None of the common connectors fit Pete's board since he did not expect anyone to use them. I did what I often do.....make them fit. I made the first of three DCPP boards to be a science experiment in pushing the envelope, hence the connectors. That board has seen at least 50 different tube types run through it for power levels from 20 WPC to 250 WPC, and a one time test as a mono block at 525 Watts!
I fetched the dusty "science experiment" board from a box I found it in while looking for something else. It seems that I used the two pin connector similar to the one you linked in all places except two. For some places, like the plate leads, I used a two pin connector by drilling a small hole for the second pin and connecting them together with wire on the other side of the board. This allows for more mechanical strength, and a place for two wires. One is for the OPT, and the other is for the plate cap when needed.
The spacing for "W/Y" and "W/BR" leads on the power transformer is too wide for a 2 pin connector, but a 3 pin will fit if the middle pin is cut off.
I have a 4 pin connector, made with two twos snapped together used for the GND and red OPT leads. Two extra holes were drilled for the center pins. Both ground pins are used, but only the outside "RED" pin is connected. I fed my board 650 VDC through this connector.
I have used these connectors for all of my builds. They work, and cost half of what Digikey charges, but may not be economical if that's all you order.
2-POSITION PCB TERMINAL BLOCK | All Electronics Corp.
The 3 pin is TER-203
I fetched the dusty "science experiment" board from a box I found it in while looking for something else. It seems that I used the two pin connector similar to the one you linked in all places except two. For some places, like the plate leads, I used a two pin connector by drilling a small hole for the second pin and connecting them together with wire on the other side of the board. This allows for more mechanical strength, and a place for two wires. One is for the OPT, and the other is for the plate cap when needed.
The spacing for "W/Y" and "W/BR" leads on the power transformer is too wide for a 2 pin connector, but a 3 pin will fit if the middle pin is cut off.
I have a 4 pin connector, made with two twos snapped together used for the GND and red OPT leads. Two extra holes were drilled for the center pins. Both ground pins are used, but only the outside "RED" pin is connected. I fed my board 650 VDC through this connector.
I have used these connectors for all of my builds. They work, and cost half of what Digikey charges, but may not be economical if that's all you order.
2-POSITION PCB TERMINAL BLOCK | All Electronics Corp.
The 3 pin is TER-203
Tubelab: Nice.
I got out the calipers and measured 7mm from hole to hole. The link I posted was for 5mm blocks.
I've got some crummy terminal blocks and made 'em fit too.
I got out the calipers and measured 7mm from hole to hole. The link I posted was for 5mm blocks.
I've got some crummy terminal blocks and made 'em fit too.
Now that I have this dusty board out of the box it has been in for nearly 3 years, maybe it's time to light it up......I'm not too sure what shape it was in the last time I saw it. There are some parts connected to nothing and a few are obviously missing. No tubes either. I'll have to dig through my pictures and old posts to see it it matches my last picture or forum post and start there.....
But I have a large HP RF signal generator in pieces taking up most of my workbench at the moment. Got to finish it first. Then there is a vacuum tube curve tracer staring back at me saying come on....hook me up!
But I have a large HP RF signal generator in pieces taking up most of my workbench at the moment. Got to finish it first. Then there is a vacuum tube curve tracer staring back at me saying come on....hook me up!
Thanks, that would be a very simple option to explore given Pete's drawings.
Yes - the photos look great. Although I'm veering towards a standard Hammond enclosure. Either:
14"x10"x3" - 1444-14103 (if I can squeeze it in)
17"x12"x3" - 1444-17123 (if I can't)
Or maybe the walnut sided option: 1444-32CWW, but that would be 17"x10"x3".
George, over Christmas I read through Pete's original (mammoth) thread. That was some great experimenting you got up to!
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