If the motor pulley and steppulley are clean and polished there is almost no shedding .
But check it and if there is any clean it with alcohol.
Can someone recommend a good entry-level soldering iron for working on the Thorens and also what type of solder to use? I've read Weller's are pretty good, I just don't know which one to get.
One of the yellow wires going to the motor is very, very thin and I'd like to reinforce the connection a bit.
And what temperature should one use when doing this type of work?
One of the yellow wires going to the motor is very, very thin and I'd like to reinforce the connection a bit.
And what temperature should one use when doing this type of work?
The 25 watt Antex should be OK. I also have a smaller one which I use in tandum. I have had many " better " irons . I always returrn to Antex. They are if you like the Sennheisser of the soldering irons. Put it on a variac if wanting control ( 207 to 245V or 103 to 123 US ) . Use 60 40 lead type solder, 98% tin is hard work.
700°F = 371.1°C = far too hot for soldering with leaded solders.
290°C to 320°C is plenty for leaded solders.
The three eutectics I mentioned solidify/melt at 183° or 179°C
None of them have that pasty range during which movement can destroy the electrical continuity of the soldered joint.
290°C to 320°C is plenty for leaded solders.
The three eutectics I mentioned solidify/melt at 183° or 179°C
None of them have that pasty range during which movement can destroy the electrical continuity of the soldered joint.
Yes, the extra 111degrees from 179 to 290 is sufficient for all abilities of operator. Only larger (high heat soak) joints benefit from using higher than 300°C and 320°C does for most wiring and smaller thinner ground planes.
I have used upto 350°C for massive joints and/or massive ground planes of 2thou and 4thou thickness where no thermal reliefs are built into the PCB.
For line level wiring, 290 to 300°C is sufficient.
Sorry for interrupt, I have one arm TP-14 I think that is for 124 model?
It is the spare part for me. I dont have 124 TT
...
The arm is in original cardboard box, with head-shell, and black base. And with exchanged part at the counterweight so it has no slag at all. Only little part missing is anti-skating weight. It is with original wires inside, but turn out the littler holder out (not by myself because it is tricky) so it is ready to optionally exchange the connection wires inside. Or not just plug the shtift into place...
If someone need this arm for restoring please PM me?
It is the spare part for me. I dont have 124 TT
...The arm is in original cardboard box, with head-shell, and black base. And with exchanged part at the counterweight so it has no slag at all. Only little part missing is anti-skating weight. It is with original wires inside, but turn out the littler holder out (not by myself because it is tricky
) so it is ready to optionally exchange the connection wires inside. Or not just plug the shtift into place...If someone need this arm for restoring please PM me?
Here is a thing. Alloys were thought to be random distributions of metals ( maybe a long time ago ). The interesting thing is the <200C of the combination alloys is they have lower melting point than any of the metals used. This means the electrons using the convention most do are working to make what is almost a new pure metal.
I never really know how hot my soldering iron is. It is far greater than 200C and Antex know what it should be. Two irons gets the job done if the 25 watts is not enough. My big Weller seems not as good as two Antex. How that works is solder as best you can with the 25 watt Antex then add the 18 watt one to help when enough solder on the joint. The two irons suit different jobs. The 18 watt better for fine PCB work. To be honest temperature controlled irons never seemed much better. That isn't true if a 80 watt iron that seldom is asked to give 80 watts. The next question is how easy is it to use. The illusion is the iron can be smaller and pack more punch. For some reason it works out less good than two irons. Perhaps the size of the bit is the factor and not the watts.
I never really know how hot my soldering iron is. It is far greater than 200C and Antex know what it should be. Two irons gets the job done if the 25 watts is not enough. My big Weller seems not as good as two Antex. How that works is solder as best you can with the 25 watt Antex then add the 18 watt one to help when enough solder on the joint. The two irons suit different jobs. The 18 watt better for fine PCB work. To be honest temperature controlled irons never seemed much better. That isn't true if a 80 watt iron that seldom is asked to give 80 watts. The next question is how easy is it to use. The illusion is the iron can be smaller and pack more punch. For some reason it works out less good than two irons. Perhaps the size of the bit is the factor and not the watts.
How quickly the bit transfers heat from the heater to the tip depends on the thermal resistance of the route from heater to tip. There is also the heat already in the tip+shank. That too can transfer a lot of heat quickly.
The bigger the shank and the shorter the tip, the more heat can get into the joint.
Heat flow is very much controlled by the geometry of the tip+shank.
The bigger the shank and the shorter the tip, the more heat can get into the joint.
Heat flow is very much controlled by the geometry of the tip+shank.
Thanks for all the info so far, guys. Would someone be able to provide a link to one of the irons on Amazon? I have a gift card I need to use.
I do quite a lot of soldering and 371C (700F) is a good compromise for the sorts of soldering I do based on long experience. (I don't use electronically regulated irons at home)
