R=4x10 ohm, C=4x330 pF
Capacitors are connected to PCB ground plane after scratching the paint in two points.
By the way, a piece of 2.54mm strip contact can be used as input connector (can be seen in first picture)
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Finished board
Friends, will I get a benefit if I change the inductors with:
5pcs 12×12×7MM 10uH Mark 100 SMD Shielded Power Inductors | eBay
5PCS CD75 10uH 100 SMD Power Inductors 7mm×5mm
No audiophile part, but proper value for the board. My speaker is 6 Ohm. Thanks.
With stock board the inductors of the slave chip are getting hot but as fulvio suggested I remove c33 to have better synchro.After that things cool to normal.
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Here are photos of the Amazon board. It has a removable heatsink, and the caps say SANYO - however I'm not sure if they legitimate. Perhaps someone can weigh in...
Got out the magnifying glass and...
39 kΩ in R1
100 kΩ in R2
For gain of 32db per the data sheet
Input caps are 1μF, which gives a -3db response at 20hz. Should be changed to 5.6µF for a flat response to 20hz at 32db gain.
Amazon link again for those that are interested. These are good boards and have the largest heatsink you can find around right now. There are ~12 left.
Just bought 2 more!
39 kΩ in R1
100 kΩ in R2
For gain of 32db per the data sheet
Input caps are 1μF, which gives a -3db response at 20hz. Should be changed to 5.6µF for a flat response to 20hz at 32db gain.
Amazon link again for those that are interested. These are good boards and have the largest heatsink you can find around right now. There are ~12 left.
Just bought 2 more!
With stock board the inductors of the slave chip are getting hot but as fulvio suggested I remove c33 to have better synchro.After that things cool to normal.
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Wow nice. Do you hear any difference in sound? What other mod did you do on your board? Thanks.
Like I said very obvious counterfeits. Millions around, some look better than these.
If one wants the Sanyo WX buy the Suncon ME-WX at an official distributor. Yes the Sanyo should read Suncon on the foil and if buying old stock one should at least take a look at the Suncon to see if the Sanyo is close enough to even wait for seller to send other capacitors than pictured in the ad on Ali or Ebay 😀
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For G = 32 dB, Rin is 15Kohm, so with Cin= 1uF, the -3dB point is about at 10 Hz; at 20 Hz, the loss is about 1 dB; I wouldn't worry for this.
No other mod yet but I want to remove the four capacitors.Can't tell nothing about difference in sound quality but for me this board is worth the money I pay(6.8 dollars).
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Yeah, it seems that Sanwu is using counterfeit "Sanyo" caps on these boards, and also on their TDA7498 in the same form-factor. I have both, neither have the K-vent.
Just yesterday I received a pair of amps that look identical to the ones in your link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZKM2QC
They look good to me so far, however there are SMT components between the heat sink and PCB. If the heat sink happens to hit any of the components and the anodization on the heat sink fails, there might be shorts. I took the heat sink off and put a piece of kapton tape between the components and heat sink.
I'll report back here when I get a chance to try them out.
Well I'm pretty damn impressed with this chip.
TPA3116 NE5532 2.0 50w+50w stereo HIFI power digital amplifier board Tone 12v 24 | eBay
Needed something cheap for a house supplied by my employer every other week when I have to work out of town. For now it is hooked up to a pair of WWMT's I built years ago from another forum. They are not very efficient. No matter, it sounds really good. I swear (until you drive it hard) it sounds as good as the emotiva xpa5 that normally drives them! I use the cheapie blu tooth rx stuck on the top to feed it, and used a little 5 volt smp to drive that.
I have a pair of ultra cheap parts express 6.5 bookshelf speakers that sort of suck. Might have to hit up a pawn shop for something slightly better.
TPA3116 NE5532 2.0 50w+50w stereo HIFI power digital amplifier board Tone 12v 24 | eBay
Needed something cheap for a house supplied by my employer every other week when I have to work out of town. For now it is hooked up to a pair of WWMT's I built years ago from another forum. They are not very efficient. No matter, it sounds really good. I swear (until you drive it hard) it sounds as good as the emotiva xpa5 that normally drives them! I use the cheapie blu tooth rx stuck on the top to feed it, and used a little 5 volt smp to drive that.
I have a pair of ultra cheap parts express 6.5 bookshelf speakers that sort of suck. Might have to hit up a pawn shop for something slightly better.
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I'm 100% with you. If you see other posts from me, I recently defended just that, while many do prefer to have a much robust power supply (the american way 🙂 ).
How long do think the power supply should be able to supply "full audio power" until it sags to decrease the audio output power level?
Granted it's been a while but from my previous experience with the 3110D2 sure amp, they benefit from playing around with different power supply electrolytic's. It seems to me that you are still using the stock ones provided but I would strongly recommend swapping those out with different value high-quality electrolytics before really judging the sound quality of the 3110D2, if you have not done so already. Just my two cents.
