I've just returned to a PASStime that I really enjoyed a few years back. But i never was an electronic genius, not even qualified as a novice, just an interested party. There just seems to be something different about listening to music from circuits self crafted. Anyway, i have an unfinished balanced B1 project and a stash of 13µf 250v Axon caps I was thinking of using in place of the 10µf values originally called for. I would appreciate comments, calculations for effect on frequency response or such. Deeper in the stash is a set of 6µf 140v caps. Are there any mathematical rules of thumb for choice?
Thank You,
Charles
p.s., inside my old stash bag is a pair or two of Aleph-X Rev 1.0 boards received from Chad Simpson long ago. Any comment on their project viability or desire by another diyer?
Thank You,
Charles
p.s., inside my old stash bag is a pair or two of Aleph-X Rev 1.0 boards received from Chad Simpson long ago. Any comment on their project viability or desire by another diyer?
The bass roll off is determined by the DC blocking capacitor's value and the Input Impedance of the Receiver.
F-3dB = 1 / {2 Pi R C }
F-3dB = 1 / {2 Pi R C }
You will be hard pressed to beat an Elna Slimic 11 for the price. It would not surprise me to find out all the sellers of poly caps in the USA buys their metalized poly film from the same source. I understand quality control comes into play and there are subtle differences between them.
Quote from Nelson Pass:
Gotta love it! Practicality encasing passion... Also the basis for a response to the wife for the reason to do a bit of hoarding. Not an effective argument, but you gotta start somewhere!
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I've used jupiter, VCaps, obligatto and one other high end cap in one B. In another B1 used Mundorf lower end caps bypassed by Mundorf Supreme caps. The first b1 sounds a bit better, mostly determined by what's before and after it. The second b1 is complete solid and I wouldn't care about the 1st b1, unless I heard it. The difference are subtle.
Is $500 to $600 in caps worth it? It's up to the listener.
Am I hearing things? No. Others have confirmed the same at different times.
Is $500 to $600 in caps worth it? It's up to the listener.
Am I hearing things? No. Others have confirmed the same at different times.
I agree with what you have said. It really is not a black art rolling 2 metal films between a dielectric whatever kind it is. I can build an amplifier for $600. As Nelson said at the Burning amp festival. There is nothing wrong in someone using gold parts if they choose to. I will keep my money. I have found with coupling caps in tube builds the differences in a quality caps is subtle and probably comes down more to personal taste than anything else. I have found a .95 cent polyester coupling cap is plenty good enough and yes I have used some expensive, for me, poly caps. Better, hmm maybe.
In this build where a little leakage does not matter a good quality electrolytic like the Silmic 11 sounds mighty fine to me.
In this build where a little leakage does not matter a good quality electrolytic like the Silmic 11 sounds mighty fine to me.
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I've heard some of these fancy caps are just motor start caps, but I can confirm.
Another thing...take a poly cap, place it inside a copper tube, then pour epoxy around it. Does it sound any better? Would be easy to /AB.
Another thing...take a poly cap, place it inside a copper tube, then pour epoxy around it. Does it sound any better? Would be easy to /AB.
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Did I fail to mention that I made the B1 push-pull and direct coupled?
Oh, well I did.
😎
I had a feeling... 🙂
Thanks, you are the best!
(sorry Choky 😀)
I look forward to those smarter than me discussing his 🙄
What do you like for +-V?